Setting up my RO/DI system

I try not to store mixed saltwater for long, it gets slimy and smells musty after several days. I keep five 5G drinking water type jugs and the 23 gallon Rubbermaid ATO container of RO/DI at all times and can mix up my 30G Rubbermaid on wheels with new saltwater in a few minutes when needed.

One advantage of having the RO/DIunder the sink is you could add a $59 drinking waterkit and use the RO only for drinking and icemaker too so it serves double duty. We have used RO of drinking and ice for about 20 years now and love it. It was much easier to justify the purchase to the wife at the time. We fill drinking water bottles half way, stick them in the freezer, pull it out and top it off with RO and have cld water for hours. Saves a fortune on buying bottles of drinking water plus all the landfill space or recycling costs too.
 
Idk if it's true or not, but we aren't supposed to drink deionized water right? I don't have a DI on my RO that I use for drinking and top off but when I inquired through BRS what I would need to make my system perfect for my reef, they told me not to drink the DI, but put a valve on the system to run water through the DI canister when I make water for my tank. Then turn it off when I'm making drinking water...
 
DI being bad for you is more a myth than anything. Organizations like the WHO have been trying to prove its bad for decades but the tests are always inconclusive. You don't get minerals from the water you drink. Eat a balanced diet and drink whatever you like. That being said though, DI tastes very blah or bland and is not refreshing plus is more expensive to make due to the resins. Following this diagrame here, place a tee and check valve between your pressurized RO drinking water and your DI and you have the best of both worlds:
http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf
 
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Alright do I got my unit running now. Ran a water hose undery garage and the black hose out and under the door.ran one hour at 75% psi about to start collecting
 
Make sure the waste line has an air gap so nothing can get back into it and contaminate the system if you ran it out on the ground somewhere.
 
So i just got a RO/DI unit today. The thing is that my laundry room is in the back of the house and the garage is located in the front; imagine that. Needing some ideas on how about i should go with setting this system up so i can have clean water ready to go for my soon to be reef.
This is what i am thinking about doing, going and getting lets say 50ft of tubing.Tape into the cold water in the laundry room hose.Run it up a 5ft wall into the attic, then 10 yard forward, and then drop into the garage. I really dont know if the ro/di system and push the head pressure? Really up for anything at this point. THanks

Where is your hot water heater? You could always tap the cold water there. Or do any bathrooms or kitchen back up to your garage? You could always cut a whole in the wall and attach to their water. In my setup I run from my hot water heater.
 
When youtap into the hot water heater supply line, make sure you stay far enough away so that convection or heat transfer in the copper pipe is not an issue. RO membranes can be permanently damaged by 113 degree water which isn't all that hot really. I find the cold water supply to my heater is quite warm to the touch even as far bck as the shutoff valve coming through the wall.
 
When youtap into the hot water heater supply line, make sure you stay far enough away so that convection or heat transfer in the copper pipe is not an issue. RO membranes can be permanently damaged by 113 degree water which isn't all that hot really. I find the cold water supply to my heater is quite warm to the touch even as far bck as the shutoff valve coming through the wall.
 
When youtap into the hot water heater supply line, make sure you stay far enough away so that convection or heat transfer in the copper pipe is not an issue. RO membranes can be permanently damaged by 113 degree water which isn't all that hot really. I find the cold water supply to my heater is quite warm to the touch even as far bck as the shutoff valve coming through the wall.
 
When you tap into the hot water heater supply line, make sure you stay far enough away so that convection or heat transfer in the copper pipe is not an issue. RO membranes can be permanently damaged by 113 degree water which isn't all that hot really. I find the cold water supply to my heater is quite warm to the touch even as far back as the shutoff valve coming through the wall.
 
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duplicate posts, site went crazy for a few minutes.
 
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I run mine off of my water heater in the garage. Works great!

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1401600721.224074.jpg
 
Again check the temperature, you could be damaging the membrane. It may not be a great as you think it is. All membrane manufacturers use 113 degrees as the potential melting point of the TFC fabric.
 
Yup, about to put sand in the sump and get everything up an running. I have bio spara should I add some of that or just start with an shrimp
 
I prefer all natural so would use the shrimp. I think you get a more robust bacteria that way. I would also add a good piece of cured or even uncured live rock for diversity along with a cup or two of real live sand from a friends system to seed ad jump start the sand you are adding. The more diversity the better.
 
I use all uncured live rock in my systems when I set them up so I run the skimmer from day one to export die off and excess nutrients. With dry rock it probably isn't needed right away as there is little to no die off and the shrimp is helping to build beneficial bacteria. I follow the recommendations at waltsmith.com for both curing rock and cycling a new system.
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%

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