Setting up purchased used tank

dasteve003 · Apr 30, 2014

I just bought a used 72 gallon bowfront salt water tank with all the items I need: a complete sump with return pump and over flow box, an esopps protein skimmer, marineland reef capable led lights with built in timer, and a heater. I am getting a lot of conflicting and quite frankly confusing advice on how to get my tank setup. I want to get fish in sooner than later but I understand their living creatures and don't want to introduce them into an environment in which they won't be happy and healthy. I've learned about water changes and testing the water once the tank is going with fish but need to know how to get it going to start.

It seems like I should fill it with tap water with everything hooked up and running for a day or 2 and then I can add sand and salt, would I do that at the same time? Also this sand is a live sand and seems to have great reviews, http://www.petco.com/Shop/Product.aspx?sku=708950 can anyone here give their input on this sand and about how much salt I need and what the best steps are in getting this tank up and running. I know I need some live rock but its so expensive, I don't actually need 72 pounds of it do I? Any help you can give to a new comer would be appreciated. I'm excited to join the salt water community.

dasteve003 · Apr 30, 2014

I've seen a lot of negative opinions on live sand or at least that its over priced, if I get regular sand and add a bottle of bacteria would that be better?

Jimbo662 · Apr 30, 2014

Congrats on the new tank! The key thing to learn about saltwater tanks is you've got to have patience. You'll need to let the tank cycle first which could take up to 4-6 weeks...every tank is different.

You don't want to use tap water...too many things in it that will cause trouble down the road. You'll want to either buy RO/DI water from one of your LFS's or buy an RO/DI filter so you can make it yourself whenever you need some.

That sand looks like it should work fine. Some people add before the water and some add after. You'll need a minimum of 1lb of rock per gallon of water...most people do 1.5 or 2 per gallon of water. The sand and rock will host the beneficial bacteria that helps process the waste from the fish.

After the tanks has been cycling test it each day until you see the ammonia, nitrites at 0 and everything else at or near 0. you don't want to add any fish until those first two are stable at 0.

The best rule of thumb here is to ask questions before you do something you're not sure about. This is a great community with tons of experienced reefers.

James

Jimbo662 · Apr 30, 2014

Forgot to mention you don't want to use just any regular sand. some sands will leach silica (i think is what it is) into the water and cause issues. To have a successful tank you want to make sure you do things right the first time or you'll have to spend more money later redoing something. In my new build I used special grade argonite sand from BRS. The grains are a little larger which prevents it from creating dust storms if you have too much flow or a fish that digs in the sand.

booth2010 · Apr 30, 2014

Buy dry rock much much cheaper and add the beneficial bacteria

dasteve003 · Apr 30, 2014

So using RO/DI water is very imporant? If I use it to start the tank and then use tap water with my water changes that would be a bad thing correct?

How much longer will the tank take to cycle and be ready for fish if I use dry rock, I assume it turns into live rock over time? Also could I use a mix of live and dry to turn the dry into live and get the tank ready a little faster?

I really appreciate all the advice as I want to do this right, and hopefully find some pricing deals along the way, maybe buying my rock on craigslist ot something

cdness · Apr 30, 2014

Use dry rock from BRS and a small piece of live rock from a fellow reefer to help you out and seed the tank. Let it cycle 6 - 8 weeks before adding any livestock. This includes fish, corals, snails, crabs, stars, etc... Please note, the weight of dry rock is MUCH less than it is when wet. If you ordered a 50 pound box of dry rock you will have more than enough rock.

Dry sand or live sand it doesn't matter. Either way rinse it out well before use by putting it in an old pillow case and running water through it. Don;t do it all at once or you will tear the pillow case. Be sure you use sand that is designed for aquariums. Beware of silica based sands as they can scratch the glass easier and tend to be fine grain and blow around.

Do not use TAP water. Get RODI water or at minimum use distilled water. Tap has too many unknowns. You can add the salt to the water right away.

Order to add: Rocks immediately on the glass or on an eggcrate base. This prevents shifting and rock slides. Then add a little bit of water. Then add the sand, the water will help it hold in place. Place a small plate or bowl in the tank. Add the water to the tank using the plate or bowl the prevent a sandstorm.

rdevoe11 · Apr 30, 2014

booth2010 said:
Buy dry rock much much cheaper and add the beneficial bacteria

+1

dr tims is a popular option....also, its becoming more and more common for people to abandon the pound+ of live rock per gallon rule to create more open aquascapes

some people will tell you tap water has worked for them, but I would also recommend either buying a RO/DI unit (BRS is popular) or purchasing RO/DI water from your LFS, it will save you money and headaches in the long run

PatW · Apr 30, 2014

I suppose one could use tap water if your tap water had virtually zero nitrates, phosphates, pesticides, and heavy metals. Given the cost of the hobby, an RODI system is really cheap insurance.

JZ199 · Apr 30, 2014

Like everyone else said RO/DI system or water is extremely important and 100% worth it.

Dry rock will take a little longer to be ready to go than live rock, but it's a lot cheaper, as for adding some live and dry that's exactly what I did, then I added the beneficial bacteria and everything daily as long as it was needed.

If you get rock from craigslist just be cautious and look it over good, I'm sure you already know but the more porous rock the better as it will act as your filter... The sand will eventually get the bacteria you need also reefrocks.net has great priced sand and it's already washed out so you don't have to worry about a massive sand storm taking over your tank

fishroomlady · Apr 30, 2014

great advice thus far! I can't think of anything to add actually

welcome to the hobby! FWIW, ok, I do have something to add - I would get dry rock and then seed that with a couple nice pieces of live rock (you want rock with nice purple coralline on it so it can then spread to your dry rock down the road in addition to the beneficial bacteria). Although live rock can carry some undesirable hitchhikers, it also can be quite fascinating with its creatures gradually showing up as you're waiting for your tank to cycle.

dasteve003 · Apr 30, 2014

Do you think getting some live rock and the 50 lb box of dry rock from reefrocks.net is a good way to go? Also how does the free sand that comes with these compare to the sand I lined to in my original post, it's much cheaper but is it as good? Basically gonna be just a fish tank no real corals or anything other than the rock.

I'm definitely going to be getting some RO/DI water for the tank as it seems everyone is in agreement that that is very important, thanks again for all the help!

Jimbo662 · May 1, 2014

They advertise it as sugar grain size. I'm still a little weary of that. Any livestock that digs around in it will stir it up and if there's the slightest too much flow in the tank it'll blow it around on corals and rock work. Make sure you get something that you'll be happy with aesthetically. It's much easier to get something you're happier with in the beginning than to get something you want to switch out 6 months later. I'm sure there are plenty of people on here that will tell you it's a nightmare to try to remove sand from an established tank.

This seems to be a fairly generic looking brown sand. Most people go with a white / pinkish color. The brighter the sand the more reflection you get on the bottom from the light and it'll help the corals if you decide down the road you want to start adding some.

fishroomlady · May 1, 2014

you definitely don't want sugar sized sand imo.

Tankmaster · May 1, 2014

Before you buy any rock check craigslist. The best thing you can do for your tank is to use rodi water and buy rock that has been in someones tank. I bought my live rock from a guy who had it in his reef tank for 10 years. I paid $100 for 130 lbs. This will also speed up your cycle time tremendously. Also adding water from an existing reef tank helps also. All together I put 50 gallons of "dirty" reef water (what was left over from a water change) in my 125 gallon with that rock and my complete cycle time was less that 2 weeks! I just sold about 300 lbs of rock from a 7 year old 220 tank I bought for $250. So If you keep looking you can find a good deal to save you some money and speed up cycle time.