Setting up QT protocol

reefknight · May 15, 2017

After a substantial lose of the vast majority of my DT fish last year, due to taking the word of the LFS that they had appropriately QT'ed a fish, I am setting up my own QT. With the exception of one fish, Potters Leopard, that I was unable to remove from the DT it has been fallow for 9 months. The Potters has shown no signs of any disease or discomfort that once affected all.

I'm setting up a 29g w/ an Emporer HoB, heater, NH4 alert badge and bare bottom. Not positive of what media I will run in the filter at this point. Possibly blue bonded filter pad cut up and inserted into the media cartridge. It will be easy to seed in the display sump. Will add a couple pieces of PVC for various fish when QT'ing. I have acquired several medications to use in this process because of the lack of local access.

Chloroquine phosphate 25mg
Kanamycin 50g
Metronidazole 100g
Nitrofurazone 100g
Praziquantel (powder) 10g
Cupramine (Seachem Cu test kit)

I'm wanting to run a prophylactic full spectrum treatment. No more issues sneaking past me and into the DT. Unfortunately, I don't have room for a second QT so using the TTM is pretty much out of the picture. I don't mind if it takes 30+ days for them to get into the display as long as they're not overly stressed by being in the QT and are being treated appropriately. Just looking for the best possible protocols to run to ensure this outcome. Need positive assurance of which medications can be ran in conjunction with each other.

In the past when introducing new fish to the DT I would soak food in Kanaplex/ Metroplex/ Focus and a mix of vitamins and garlic supplements. For many years that did work when getting my fish from a reliable source. Then last year the apocalypse...

After reading many of the stickies on this subject I want to see what would be recommended. Thank you for your suggestions in advance!

melypr1985 · May 15, 2017

reefknight said:
With the exception of one fish, Potters Leopard, that I was unable to remove from the DT it has been fallow for 9 months. The Potters has shown no signs of any disease or discomfort that once affected all.

I'm sorry about your losses last year. I'm also sorry to tell you that since the wrasse has been in the display this whole time, whatever killed your fish is still in the tank as well. The wrasse has built up a temporary immunity to whatever it was but is still a carrier. Any new fish you add will be risked. Unless you remove the wrasse and QT him and leave the tank truly fallow, you run the risk of every fish you introduce to the tank contracting the parasite that killed your others.

Humblefish · May 15, 2017

First thing we need to talk about is that wrasse. I don't know which disease caused your fish apocalypse (probably velvet), but there's a very good chance the wrasse is an asymptomatic carrier. He may not show any symptoms himself because he has acquired immunity; but over the past 9 months his body has still been serving as reservoir which will fuel future outbreaks when non-immune fish are added.

reefknight · May 15, 2017

While he was symptomatic and for about two weeks I continued to feed the mixture of medicated food that I mentioned. Due to the prolonged period of time without seeing any signs on it, no visible marks, flashing, etc. and providing that it burys itself at night that it had fought it off and that the parasite would have died out. That's particularly why I went even longer on Not introducing any new fish, corals or inverts during this timeframe.
At the time we couldn't be sure of what it was, but as quickly as it spread and as devastating as it was velvet was the guess.

Empress · May 15, 2017

Also if you use a seeded filter pad from the display sump you're introducing whatever it is the wrasse is carrying into your newly set up QT. That issue will sneak past you so catch that wrasse and get him out of the display. [emoji6]

reefknight · May 15, 2017

Yeah, definitely if there is a chance that the parasite is still in there I would cross contaminate systems. I have a small cube with a couple of clowns and I don't use anything from one tank to the other, even still. I've always used an abundance of caution since this arose.
I my train of thought went a bit different due to the way the parasite hit. I didn't think that a host would survive this long. I'll leave things be until I can get the QT comfortably cycled. Then attempt again at trapping the Potters. I'm just hesitant with him because I don't want to loose the remaining one after doing so well for so long. My initial thought was to use CP to treat but after reading through several posts, now it's not recommended and neither is Cumpramine. So just cheated copper? Never been a fan of it, always seen more harm than good in the past. Of course, in fairness before having to treat last fall it had been at least 15yrs since I had to treat with any form of copper. Ugh...
As far as the DT...it's been up for over 7yrs. It's had some ups and downs. It's had an algae plague to where the aquascape had to be changed about 1.5yrs ago and a partial new sandbed. The sand is CaribSea and I really haven't cared for the grain mixture. Too many pieces of shell and debris even after rinsing. Might be a good time to just remove the corals to a holding tank and do a reset. Remove and trash all sand. Remove the rock and give it a muratic acid bath. Remove all equipment and give it a vinegar bath and wipe down the DT with it as well. Leave corals in holding for at least 6wks for a fallow period. Restart the tank on a better note and call it a day.

ngoodermuth · May 15, 2017

Potters leopard wrasse is one of the more delicate. But, you should be ok with Coppersafe as long as you raise the level slowly. Use the API test kit with it

Oh, and I had great success catching all of my wrasses using an acclimation box (or fish trap) and fresh seafood bait. A fresh clam and a piece of shad roe worked wonders.