Share Your Quarantine Procedures!

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Like the title says, share you Quarantine procedure. Things like equipment used, How long, lighting, filtration, etc. How do you QT fish versus corals?
 
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i have a 40 breeder they get dip before i put them in there they stay about i month where i frag them and dip them again one off to the frag tank and other off to the display tank
 
would u use a 14 bio cube with a sunpod 70 watt halide for a frag tank or maybe a Qt tank is it to small and how much should u water change weekly or bi weekly?
 
20 gallon long for fish:

Air filter driven by walmart air pump
Freshwater dip
Add Formalin
Add other medications if the Formalin dosent work
Water Changes every day
Till I notice fish are fine

Corals:

10 gallon tank
powercompact lighting 65 watts
Coral RX
Leave them in QT till I notice nothing on the corals
 
i dont do fish just every coral i get i dont care if i know who gave it to me i dont take any chances dip dip dip dip dip
 
+1 10g but under 48w PC's with coralRx till the pests if any are NUKED! lol
 
Our rule is, if we put a fish in a tank, be willing to loose everything in that tank. There are a few variations on that, like if the fish can be caught you can move it to a hosipital tank. In that event, we keep a airlift sponge filter in the sump of another tank so that it is always seeded and is ready to support a hospital tank. Hospital tank is easy to do. Sometimes a bucket, maybe a 20 tank that can be set up with tanks water. You then need a method to keep water quality (the sponge filter with an airlift) or several water changes a week with no feeding. Keep a close eye on ammonia, temp and PH and keep some Ammo Lock handy if ther is a spike. The fish will be calmer without light and can go without food for longer than you think. The problem with occasional hospital tanks is you often run a greater risk of killing the fish with stress and instability (temp, PH, etc) than the disease. The problem with keeping an established hospital tank is that it easily becomes just another display tank. We really like Marineland's Lifeguard product for a treatment.
Anther method of quarrantine is to somehow use your sump or refugium. You can keep a close eye on the new inhabitant, it is likely easy to catch and treat if necessary, and it offers a nice slow introduction to the new environment along with the advantage of having the stability and introduction to the new chemical environment. Beleive it or not, even LPS corals that defend their territory with chemical warfare can become used to other coral's presence with the slow introduction to the new "smell" of the new neighbors from a distant sump introduction.
As far as corals go, it is real simple to take some easy precautions from the spread of nasty stuff. Any new acropora wil ALWAYS get an interceptor dip before it goes into the tank. If you don't know what redbug is, you should definitely find out the easy way. All you need is a salt bucket in a stable temperature area (off the floor on the counter) with a very small powerhead. Acclimate the coral to tankwater about half full. Put about a 1/8" chunk of Interceptor in the water and let it there for 12-24 hours. Next, do a dip of your favorite solution and then inspecti it very carefully. Use a magnifying glass. You are ready to acclimate it to the tank. Our favorite dip is Two Little Fishies product named Revive. It covers a broad spectrum of problems, even though it smells like Pine-Sol. Lugols is another well accepted dip.

Rick and Terry
 

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