Sherman’s bta Dying please help asap

[pokegirl1332]

uve posted multiple threads now worried about this bta but today it’s never looked worse. I haven’t gotten much help other than are you feeding it. Everything in the tank seems normal. Params are still stable and it just keeps getting worse. Please please help me figure out what I can do to save this thing. Tank is 130 gallon mixed reef tank but the bta is on its own rock completely
Nitrates 30ppm (checked Friday)
Calc 440
Mag 1430
Alk 10ppm
Phosphate .008
Idk what’s wrong had it for around a month and a half and was doing well until about a week a go
Feed mysis and brine every other day.
Will upload a before and after shot. My bf thinks we should move it but I’m not even sure how to get it off the rock without killing it

 

[hdsoftail1065]

#reefsquad

I'm not familiar with these, but we can get eyes on it.

 

[Ron Reefman]

I wish I could help. I've had lots of anemones, including RBTAs. Yours does look to be in bad shape, but I have no clue what is wrong with it. Anemones are very strange animals and they usually are slow to respond to changes. Hopefully somebody will offer some insight.

 

[pokegirl1332]

I fed it some mysis after I took the picture and it looks slightly better the mouth seems to have closed up. Any ideas on moving it at least. I have to break down this tank and move it in about a month and not sure how to move the bta (providing it survives) it’s still not looking the greatest but unfortunately everyone just says they’re all so different and it’s very case to case. Guess I just have to hope for the best

 

[PDR]

Your phosphate is really low compared to your nitrate, are you using gfo or some other phosphate removing media? Have you run fresh carbon recently?

 

[ReefSlice]

My anemone used to act weird like this every few months, usually purging some zooxanthellae to adjust to water/light parameters. Or just taking a poo! Could be getting ready to split as well. As long as it doesn't start falling apart, just watch it closely. It's still fairly new.

 

[pokegirl1332]

I

Your phosphate is really low compared to your nitrate, are you using gfo or some other phosphate removing media? Have you run fresh carbon recently?

have run some fresh carbon but don’t run gfo. The nitrates got really high a few months ago when I went on vacation for a week and the pet sitter waaaay overfed but since then been pretty. Constant around 20-30ppm

 

[pokegirl1332]

My anemone used to act weird like this every few months, usually purging some zooxanthellae to adjust to water/light parameters. Or just taking a poo! Could be getting ready to split as well. As long as it doesn't start falling apart, just watch it closely. It's still fairly new.

Well if it was gonna split that’d be great Ik they can be picky and weird sometimes just kinda looked in really bad shape so I wanted to know if there’s anything I can do to help it recover

 

[pokegirl1332]

Thank you for the replies so far by the way

 

[reef lover]

Might be time to cipro if hes not turning around....
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/how-i-cipro.211822/

 

[Captain Quint]

uve posted multiple threads now worried about this bta but today it’s never looked worse. I haven’t gotten much help other than are you feeding it. Everything in the tank seems normal. Params are still stable and it just keeps getting worse. Please please help me figure out what I can do to save this thing. Tank is 130 gallon mixed reef tank but the bta is on its own rock completely
Nitrates 30ppm (checked Friday)
Calc 440
Mag 1430
Alk 10ppm
Phosphate .008
Idk what’s wrong had it for around a month and a half and was doing well until about a week a go
Feed mysis and brine every other day.
Will upload a before and after shot. My bf thinks we should move it but I’m not even sure how to get it off the rock without killing it

Hello and sorry to read about your problems. My hopes are some of the following info will help.

Just a few of my thoughts FWIW. I don't keep any anemone until a minimum of 6 months (some follow the '12 month rule') and at a ~18 months of maturity, the tank kind of keeps itself stabilized with water changes.
_____________
Optimum parameters for anemone:
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - <10mg/l
PH - 8.1 to 8.3 (I keep a constant 8.4)
Calcium - 400 to 475 mg/l (I keep a constant 440)
Alkalinity - 7 to 10dKH (I keep a constant of around 8)
_____________
As far as moving it, disturbing the anemone as little as possible from day one is important... please don't move it, don't force into anything nor anywhere it doesn't want to be. IME it is better to let it alone. An anemone that is constantly bothered will turn face up and it can be the beginning of the end.
_____________
I'm sure you know but would like to emphasize the importance of feeding. Food should never be forced into the mouth of the anemone as damage to the mouth and actinopharynx a single word for the multi-purpose sac inside which is the stomach, digestive cavity, bowel, and reproductive system of the BTA.
______________
I'm not sure what lighting you use but I believe the percentage is roughly considered to be around 5 watts per gallon but not a true/absolute given regarding the amount of light for yours. BTA's will thrive under MH's, LED and strong T5 lighting.

Furthermore, with proper lighting, anemones don't require feedings once a day or even once a week. Finding a balance between feeding and lighting and flow contribute to anemone overall health. If an anemone shrinks it is not receiving enough food and possibly not enough lighting. But if thriving and growing it is getting all needed.
_______________
I didn't see the salinity of your water. IME BTA's do quite well with around 1.024 - 1.026 and mine is usually at 1.025 or 1.026 measuring with a calibrated refractometer.
_______________
Our anemone going 'south' with an open, gaping mouth can be a sign of a dying anemone, (not always, but not a good thing as we know...I sincerely hope it perks up and my thoughts are with Y'all but it would also be prudent to observe it turning whiter and turning slimmish when decomposing.

Fingers crossed for Y'all and the little fella.

 

[pokegirl1332]

Hello and sorry to read about your problems. My hopes are some of the following info will help.

Just a few of my thoughts FWIW. I don't keep any anemone until a minimum of 6 months (some follow the '12 month rule') and at a ~18 months of maturity, the tank kind of keeps itself stabilized with water changes.
_____________
Optimum parameters for anemone:
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - <10mg/l
PH - 8.1 to 8.3 (I keep a constant 8.4)
Calcium - 400 to 475 mg/l (I keep a constant 440)
Alkalinity - 7 to 10dKH (I keep a constant of around 8)
_____________
As far as moving it, disturbing the anemone as little as possible from day one is important... please don't move it, don't force into anything nor anywhere it doesn't want to be. IME it is better to let it alone. An anemone that is constantly bothered will turn face up and it can be the beginning of the end.
_____________
I'm sure you know but would like to emphasize the importance of feeding. Food should never be forced into the mouth of the anemone as damage to the mouth and actinopharynx a single word for the multi-purpose sac inside which is the stomach, digestive cavity, bowel, and reproductive system of the BTA.
______________
I'm not sure what lighting you use but I believe the percentage is roughly considered to be around 5 watts per gallon but not a true/absolute given regarding the amount of light for yours. BTA's will thrive under MH's, LED and strong T5 lighting.

Furthermore, with proper lighting, anemones don't require feedings once a day or even once a week. Finding a balance between feeding and lighting and flow contribute to anemone overall health. If an anemone shrinks it is not receiving enough food and possibly not enough lighting. But if thriving and growing it is getting all needed.
_______________
I didn't see the salinity of your water. IME BTA's do quite well with around 1.024 - 1.026 and mine is usually at 1.025 or 1.026 measuring with a calibrated refractometer.
_______________
Our anemone going 'south' with an open, gaping mouth can be a sign of a dying anemone, (not always, but not a good thing as we know...I sincerely hope it perks up and my thoughts are with Y'all but it would also be prudent to observe it turning whiter and turning slimmish when decomposing.

Fingers crossed for Y'all and the little fella.

I figured disturbing not would be the wrong idea but I don’t know what you mean about time. The tank is over a year old and well established. I’ve only had the anemone for a month or so is what I was referring to. Thank you thought there’s a lot of helpful information also salinity is a constant 1.025 and the lights are radions

 

[laverda]

I agree do not disturb your anemone. When the time comes to.move the tank just move the rock it is attached to. No need or reason to remove it from the rock. If it is ectended just support it so it does not tear. You really should not need to feed your anemone at all if it is getting sufficient light. Anemones can uptake nitrate directly from the water as a food source, so your nitrate are not a problem for it at all. I have kept them in tanks with nitrated as high as 120 and they loved it. I also agree your phosphates are very low.
It looks to me like it is bleaching from lack of light. Sadly it is very comon to see them looking like this at the LFS. Most have minimal lights over there anemone tanks. How many lights are you running? At what settings? How many hours a day?
Do you have plenty of flow near the anemone?

 

[BantyRooster97]

My Sherman is a tank. 5 yrs ago it got caught in my mp40, shredded & still survived. I'd say give it some time and don't mess with it. They tend to move to where they need to be if unhappy. Mine likes to be lower in my tank (less PAR) compared to my other BTAs.

 

[Dom]

Your phosphate is really low compared to your nitrate, are you using gfo or some other phosphate removing media? Have you run fresh carbon recently?

I saw that. I think it's a typo.

Red Sea, when testing shows a result on the color wheel that is 0.08. It may just be a misplaced decimal.

 

[pokegirl1332]

I agree do not disturb your anemone. When the time comes to.move the tank just move the rock it is attached to. No need or reason to remove it from the rock. If it is ectended just support it so it does not tear. You really should not need to feed your anemone at all if it is getting sufficient light. Anemones can uptake nitrate directly from the water as a food source, so your nitrate are not a problem for it at all. I have kept them in tanks with nitrated as high as 120 and they loved it. I also agree your phosphates are very low.
It looks to me like it is bleaching from lack of light. Sadly it is very comon to see them looking like this at the LFS. Most have minimal lights over there anemone tanks. How many lights are you running? At what settings? How many hours a day?
Do you have plenty of flow near the anemone?

Decent flow 2 mp40s and I’m running radions on almost 80% there’s no way it’s lack of light. The nem sits near the top of the tank too

 

[laverda]

It may just be pooping from feeding it so often. Although it definatly looks bleached for some reason. Also make sure and food you feed it is fully thawed. I have heard actual frozen food can kill them.
Has you ALK been steady at 10? They fo not like ALK swings and 10 is fairly high.

 

[PDR]

Do you have any other anemones in the tank?

 

[pokegirl1332]

It may just be pooping from feeding it so often. Although it definatly looks bleached for some reason. Also make sure and food you feed it is fully thawed. I have heard actual frozen food can kill them.
Has you ALK been steady at 10? They fo not like ALK swings and 10 is fairly high.

I had an alk swing a few months ago way before having the nem. Was a problem with dosing but it’s been stable around 9-10 since

 

[pokegirl1332]

Do you have any other anemones in the tank?

Yeah it’s the only one