Should I add rubble live rock to sump?

[CoralReefer1019]

Wanted to break up some live rock from my existing system into a frag system sump I’m working on. The sump will consists of:

Live Rubble Live Rock
Skimmer
GFO Reator

Frag system will house sps, lps, zoas, clam, with a few fish

 

[Coralreefer1]

I always add small pieces of live rock in my sump or other areas that should house bioballs or other filter media. Biological filtration is so important plus it give you more surface area for beneficial bacteria to populate to brake down waste and other contaminates. Moreover, replacing the bioballs for live rock helps reduce nitrates.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

I always add small pieces of live rock in my sump or other areas that should house bioballs or other filter media. Biological filtration is so important plus it give you more surface area for beneficial bacteria to populate to brake down waste and other contaminates. Moreover, replacing the bioballs for live rock helps reduce nitrates.

I will put in as much rubble live rock I can fit that will be submerged under water inside the sump? Hopefully is will be a good home for critters, pods etc

 

[Captain Quint]

I always add small pieces of live rock in my sump or other areas that should house bioballs or other filter media. Biological filtration is so important plus it give you more surface area for beneficial bacteria to populate to brake down waste and other contaminates. Moreover, replacing the bioballs for live rock helps reduce nitrates.

+1

 

[mfinn]

IMO live rock in the sump is a detritus trap

 

[malacoda]

Depends on your goal.

If you feel that the live rock in your frag system DT will not support enough aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to handle the system's bioload, then LR in the sump could provide that additional bacterial surface area.

If you want to create a habitat for pods and other critters in your sump, then LR in the sump would do that.

But if the rock in the DT can handle your bioload, and you don't want to create a critter habitat in the sump, then adding LR to the sump is pointless and, as mfinn said, will only serve as a detritus trap.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

Depends on your goal.

If you feel that the live rock in your frag system DT will not support enough aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to handle the system's bioload, then LR in the sump could provide that additional bacterial surface area.

If you want to create a habitat for pods and other critters in your sump, then LR in the sump would do that.

But if the rock in the DT can handle your bioload, and you don't want to create a critter habitat in the sump, then adding LR to the sump is pointless and, as mfinn said, will only serve as a detritus trap.

The 60G frag display will have some rocks but only a few pieces. It will mostly be frag racks and few fish. So basically break up as much LR I can and dump into my sump? Not running any filter socks as well

 

[malacoda]

If it's really porous--like pukani--then a little could go a long way.

I would start with enough cherry-sized pieces to fill a quart-sized mayo jar and keep an eye on nitrates for a few weeks. If they stay low and stable you should be good. If they seem like they're rising, then try another half-quart to quart-size pile.

If it's dense rock like Walt Smith or Real Reef, you may need more ... or, better yet, something like MarinePure spheres or Seachem Matrix instead. While the dense stuff does fine for handling ammonia and nitrite, I find it usually isn't porous enough to handle nitrates well (not micro-porous enough to support enough anerobic bacteria to easily keep nitrates in check).

 

[malacoda]

BTW-might also be worth keeping it in a small basket or container with a lot of holes in it. That way, every couple months or so, you can just lift it out, run it under some water to rinse all the detritus out, then drop it right back into the sump.

 

[Waters]

Unless you don't have enough biological filtration in your DT, I don't see the need to add any additional rubble in your sump.

 

[CoralReefer1019]

If it's really porous--like pukani--then a little could go a long way.

I would start with enough cherry-sized pieces to fill a quart-sized mayo jar and keep an eye on nitrates for a few weeks. If they stay low and stable you should be good. If they seem like they're rising, then try another half-quart to quart-size pile.

If it's dense rock like Walt Smith or Real Reef, you may need more ... or, better yet, something like MarinePure spheres or Seachem Matrix instead. While the dense stuff does fine for handling ammonia and nitrite, I find it usually isn't porous enough to handle nitrates well (not micro-porous enough to support enough anerobic bacteria to easily keep nitrates in check).

cherry sized pieces is that the best size for surface area ?

 

[malacoda]

You could go with bigger pieces.

By saying 'enough cherry-sized pieces to fill a quart-sized mayo jar' I was just trying to give you a ballpark figure on how much rock to start with. Keep in mind, some people use a MarinePure brick in their sump. E.g. one big piece of really porous rock.

I just think anything smaller than 'cherry-sized' pieces will restrict the flow through the rubber too much causing a lot of detritus buildup and limit the ability of the bacteria to do their job.

 

[cracker]

Rock/rubble in the fuge is a trade off as mentioned helps with filtration but also collects crude. I usually have 2 maybe 3 larger rocks so I can swap out or for a problem rock in the display (HA) or such .
I can always give a swish in old water .

 

[Coralreefer1]

In my opinion, you can never have enough aerobic and anaerobic bacteria so the more porous rock I can put into my sump or filter chamber in the back of my cube tanks, the better.