Should I cut this frag to save it?

exnisstech

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Total SPS newb here. I'm having a go at SPS in one of my tanks. I have this acro frag that is turning white at the base. It has browned as well but I'm more concerned about the white base. Algae is starting to grow so I assume it dead there. Should I just cut it at the bottom of the live portion and glue it to a plug and hope for the best? I have quite a few other SPS frags and this is the only one showing this concern. I know Phos is high so I'm thinking that my be the reason for the browning and am working on that as well as bringing nitrates up. Parameters are SG 1.025, temp 79, NO3 5ppm (I recently brought that up using sodium Nitrate as it has been pretty much undetectable for over a year) cal 400, mag 1500, Phos 2.2 (down from 4.3 last week) I don't test nitrites of ammonia since the tank has been running over 3 years. 20220615_183944.jpg
 
I'd cut it a little above the dead and glue direct to rock, or to a matured frag plug. Not a new plug.
Just curious as to why not a new plug? Not doubting just trying to learn as I go. I have a container of rubble in my sump so I can make a plug from a piece of that.
 
Just curious as to why not a new plug? Not doubting just trying to learn as I go. I have a container of rubble in my sump so I can make a plug from a piece of that.
a new plug will just gunk up super fast and cause algae to suffocate the frag.
 
Total SPS newb here. I'm having a go at SPS in one of my tanks. I have this acro frag that is turning white at the base. It has browned as well but I'm more concerned about the white base. Algae is starting to grow so I assume it dead there. Should I just cut it at the bottom of the live portion and glue it to a plug and hope for the best? I have quite a few other SPS frags and this is the only one showing this concern. I know Phos is high so I'm thinking that my be the reason for the browning and am working on that as well as bringing nitrates up. Parameters are SG 1.025, temp 79, NO3 5ppm (I recently brought that up using sodium Nitrate as it has been pretty much undetectable for over a year) cal 400, mag 1500, Phos 2.2 (down from 4.3 last week) I don't test nitrites of ammonia since the tank has been running over 3 years. 20220615_183944.jpg
What is your par? I assume your talking about the blue tort?
 
What is your par? I assume your talking about the blue tort?
Yes on the tort. It was at 230 on the rock where it was. I moved it to the rack yesterday and it is now at 300. Lighting is a xr15 pro gen 4 on a aquatic life 24 inch hybrid fixture running 2 blue+ and 2 coral+ bulbs. Measured with an apogee 510
 
Yes on the tort. It was at 230 on the rock where it was. I moved it to the rack yesterday and it is now at 300. Lighting is a xr15 pro gen 4 on a aquatic life 24 inch hybrid fixture running 2 blue+ and 2 coral+ bulbs. Measured with an apogee 510
I agree with the others, cut above the dead zone and reglue.
I also was going to say up the par on it. I recently got a Oregon tort. It came from 450 par led(I think) and I'm up to 330 where it is. Hasn't lost the color yet but my polyps are not extending either.
 
I agree with the others, cut above the dead zone and reglue.
I also was going to say up the par on it. I recently got a Oregon tort. It came from 450 par led(I think) and I'm up to 330 where it is. Hasn't lost the color yet but my polyps are not extending either.
Thanks. I'm working on raising the par slowly but am not getting what I expected out of the radion. I'm running AB+ at 80% along with the t5 bulbs full blast as the fixture isn't dimmable 9 inches off the water. I'm going to be changing the aquascape in the future so will get some rocks up closer to the lights or add a second radion if needed. I'm glad I invested in the par meter or I would just keep killing stuff. It's amazing how fast the par drops in the water.
 
Th
Just curious as to why not a new plug? Not doubting just trying to learn as I go. I have a container of rubble in my sump so I can make a plug from a piece of that.
The reason is that a frag plug that's been in the sump for a while will be biologically active, which will potentially help the frag - same reason as attaching direct to rockwork in the tank.

A new frag plug that is just wet will not have anything beneficial on it.
 
Th

The reason is that a frag plug that's been in the sump for a while will be biologically active, which will potentially help the frag - same reason as attaching direct to rockwork in the tank.

A new frag plug that is just wet will not have anything beneficial on it.
Thank you very much for that explanation.
 

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