Should I just pull the trigger and fallow?

Fallguy44

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Bought a used/established 90g reef set up about a month or so ago. No fish and only one coral.

Recently my hippo tang has rapidly developed what I believe to be velvet. All other fish in the seem to be fine. No other tangs in the tank. All fish are juvenile.

I have been seeding filter media for the last couple of weeks in preparation for a QT. I am going to fast track the set up and use some bio spira. It's a 29g tank. Hope to have it up and running tomorrow.

Main question is should I just treat the hippo tang now or just fallow everyone for 76 days and get it over with? I plan to follow the instructions I found on this site for treatment and use cupramine in the QT.

New to salt/reefs but was avid African Cichlid keeper for many years. This is my first case of velvet/ich I've ever dealt with.
 
If your positive it's velvet then you need to start treatment stat, a freshwater dip might delay the onslaught and give you an extra day to start treatment, it kills quickly and your other fish probably already have it. Hopefully it's just ich.
 
Bought a used/established 90g reef set up about a month or so ago. No fish and only one coral.

Recently my hippo tang has rapidly developed what I believe to be velvet. All other fish in the seem to be fine. No other tangs in the tank. All fish are juvenile.

I have been seeding filter media for the last couple of weeks in preparation for a QT. I am going to fast track the set up and use some bio spira. It's a 29g tank. Hope to have it up and running tomorrow.

Main question is should I just treat the hippo tang now or just fallow everyone for 76 days and get it over with? I plan to follow the instructions I found on this site for treatment and use cupramine in the QT.

New to salt/reefs but was avid African Cichlid keeper for many years. This is my first case of velvet/ich I've ever dealt with.
Can you post a picture for us of the hippo?
 
+1 on what HB AL posted above. Here's Humblefish's emergency plan for treating velvet. If you can already see external spots the fish is already in great danger. The unseen damage needs to be dealt with swiftly. Time is your enemy. Velvet is a ruthless beast. Note the areas below that I've highlighted. They really make a difference and can greatly increase survival rates. Ruby Reef Rally is my go to acriflavine product. It's a little bit harder to find Acriflavine MS.

Emergency Treatment for Marine Velvet Disease

I recently acquired 3 fish - Longnose Butterfly, Kole Tang, Naso Tang - with velvet. None showed visible physical symptoms right away, but they all came from a tank where velvet was known to be present so I just patiently waited. Before & after pictures will follow immediately after this write-up.

In short, the Butterflyfish didn’t make it; however the two tangs did. The only difference in their treatment was I used formalin (with Methylene Blue) on the butterfly in a bath solution, whereas the tangs got acriflavine (with NO Methylene Blue). It’s also worth noting that the butterfly & Kole Tang showed symptoms the worst, whereas the Naso only had moderate visible symptoms. Tangs are also generally considered hardier than butterflyfish, so there’s that factor to consider as well. Anyway, here is the treatment I used on them:

The short version:
  • 5 minute freshwater dip
  • Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:
  1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
  2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)
  • After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
  • While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
  • Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.
 
Bought a used/established 90g reef set up about a month or so ago. No fish and only one coral.

Recently my hippo tang has rapidly developed what I believe to be velvet. All other fish in the seem to be fine. No other tangs in the tank. All fish are juvenile.

I have been seeding filter media for the last couple of weeks in preparation for a QT. I am going to fast track the set up and use some bio spira. It's a 29g tank. Hope to have it up and running tomorrow.

Main question is should I just treat the hippo tang now or just fallow everyone for 76 days and get it over with? I plan to follow the instructions I found on this site for treatment and use cupramine in the QT.

New to salt/reefs but was avid African Cichlid keeper for many years. This is my first case of velvet/ich I've ever dealt with.

+1 to post a picture
And yes you will want to treat all fish in the tank and go fallow if it is indeed velvet.
 
Tried getting a picture last night, couldn't get a clear one. I'll try again and net him if needed.
 
+1 on what HB AL posted above. Here's Humblefish's emergency plan for treating velvet. If you can already see external spots the fish is already in great danger. The unseen damage needs to be dealt with swiftly. Time is your enemy. Velvet is a ruthless beast. Note the areas below that I've highlighted. They really make a difference and can greatly increase survival rates. Ruby Reef Rally is my go to acriflavine product. It's a little bit harder to find Acriflavine MS.

Emergency Treatment for Marine Velvet Disease

I recently acquired 3 fish - Longnose Butterfly, Kole Tang, Naso Tang - with velvet. None showed visible physical symptoms right away, but they all came from a tank where velvet was known to be present so I just patiently waited. Before & after pictures will follow immediately after this write-up.

In short, the Butterflyfish didn’t make it; however the two tangs did. The only difference in their treatment was I used formalin (with Methylene Blue) on the butterfly in a bath solution, whereas the tangs got acriflavine (with NO Methylene Blue). It’s also worth noting that the butterfly & Kole Tang showed symptoms the worst, whereas the Naso only had moderate visible symptoms. Tangs are also generally considered hardier than butterflyfish, so there’s that factor to consider as well. Anyway, here is the treatment I used on them:

The short version:
  • 5 minute freshwater dip
  • Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). You have two options:
  1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
  2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)
  • After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
  • While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
  • Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.

Yes, I found this last night and was exactly what I planned to do. I'm hoping the lfs has everything I need as far as the meds. Thank you!
 
In short, yes even if the hippo didn’t have ich or velvet showing, it’s oresebt without prophylactic treatment so it’s best to properly quarantine.

With velvet, you’ll want to follow the protocol above and as soon as possible.

Also, you probably already know this but a juvenile hippo will outgrow a 90 gal in 12-24 months.
 
In short, yes even if the hippo didn’t have ich or velvet showing, it’s oresebt without prophylactic treatment so it’s best to properly quarantine.

With velvet, you’ll want to follow the protocol above and as soon as possible.

Also, you probably already know this but a juvenile hippo will outgrow a 90 gal in 12-24 months.

Thank you, I'm going to get started this morning.

And yes I am aware he will eventually outgrow the tank. In my mind, I was planning a bigger tank by then. Haha. If not, I will find him a suitable home. Thank you!
 
More pictures coming.
20180329_094456.jpg
20180329_094108.jpg
20180329_094643.jpg
 
Other fish are now developing spots. I'm going to get everyone out of there today if possible. My lfs opens at 11am, hopefully they have everything. Should be fun trying to get the algea blenny out.
 
If there not dead today or tomorrow then it's probably ich and not velvet. If it's ich and your water quality is impeccable just keep them well fed with some good frozen food and they will fight it off.
 
If there not dead today or tomorrow then it's probably ich and not velvet. If it's ich and your water quality is impeccable just keep them well fed with some good frozen food and they will fight it off.

Won't they keep getting it over and over unless I fallow and eradicate it?
 
That's a long discussion for another day but if they keep eating, try and feed them often most times they will pull through and naturally fight it off, water quality is important though. I haven't lost a fish to ich in a very long time with no treatment. Only disease I fear is velvet from a couple bouts decades ago.
 
It looks like ich to me. I would pull all fish as you mentioned above and treat them.
 
Treat and fallow or treat and return to the DT?

Treat all fish in separate QT and fallow for 76 days in DT. It's up to you. I don't care for ich management. I have too many Acanthurus tangs and still adding fish. I like the comfort of knowing I have a disease free tank. If you don't go fallow it could be a constant battle, especially with new additions even if current tank inhabitants are resistant. If you don't go fallow it is a 100% guarantee that ich is still in your tank.
 

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