Should I pull the plug and restart?

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Can somebody convince me that it is a stupid idea to pull the plug on my tank, clean it, disinfect it and start over again with live rock?

So a bit of background.

After many years away from the hobby, the wife and I finally settled down last year and decide to finally assemble a tank again in March.
We had planed on starting it with dry rock to avoid hitchhikers, but for some weird reason we struggled to find it. Even one of Europe's largest distributors was out.
So we went with live rock. As expected we got a few, including bubble algae, aptasia, red planaria and vermetid snails (although vermetid snails and aptasia may have come from a friends reef, our own fault). However, what we also had was a reef then in less then a month could take SPS in and growth them fantastically.

Expecting similar results with dry rock after having seen so many successful tanks online we decide to restart the tank and try to eradicate all pests.
So we got some old rock from a local LFS and cured it and cycled it for almost 3 months.
Once we where ready we transferred everything using as much as the old water as we could to keep parameters as stable as possible.

We changed noting else. Still skimmerless, still natural seawater (the research facilite I work in shares the water intake with the local aquarium. No they don't keep corals, fish ans seals), still automatic 1-2% water changes and a small DIY algae scrubber. We still test every 3 to 4 days (professional habit, since we both do research in aquaculture). Par levels are still the same.

The first sign something wasn't entirely good was that the DIY algae scrubber was not producing nearly as much algae as before (same fish, water changes, everything).
Slowly, the SPS polis started to not extend and eventually started to STN. Within about two months we had lost all of them.
We assumed it was stress from the transfer (although parameters looked the same as before) and gave it some time.
In December we bought a green acro, just to test how the aquarium was doing. 2 days before we were about to leave for Christmas, the back panel of our IM sr80 open up (the plastic held it together, so it wasn't a tragedy). We transfer everything to a 400 l tank, fixed as much as we could and left for holidays (we had someone coming over every second day and a camera so we could check on things).

I was expecting the acro to be completely death. To my surprise it wasn't (although it was brown). We got our replacement tank from the LFS and restarted everything. Filled it up with new water (still natural). More surprising the acro recover most of its color in two weeks. Happy that everything was fine and ready, we order 6 sps frags and a chalice in late January (3 plating montis, two seriatoporas and a stylophora, plus a grenn a purple chalice). All did fantastic for about a month and showed good signs of growth. However, as previous, things slowly started to fade, algae (dinos and some we cannot identify) start to show up and the corals started to STN again. The same pattern.

We have been trying to fix it (thanks again to all that have helped this). Having said that is becoming very frustrating that the same routines and parameters that produced such good results before, keep resulting in dead corals and wasted money chasing a problem we do not know what it is.

I know corals can be successfully kept in dry rock tanks from the begging, I know time and stability are key, I also know that pest will likely come, but as this point can honestly say, it was much easier and rewarding to fight all the pests we had while looking at a thriving reef, then trying to chance a problem we do not exactly know what is, will corals die and money is wasted.


Sorry for the long rant.
Just need to let it out.

P.S. When we had the live rock, I remember reading a comment on Facebook on one of the reefing pages where someone complained about missing looking at all the interesting creatures that were in the live rock. I definitely agree with that. Miss all the small creatures that kept popping up.


A few picture and videos from before
IMG_20190509_193302.jpg
IMG_20190808_185410.jpg
Sem Título.jpg






 
What most people do in this matter is sample from a bunch of offered ideas, pick what they think best, and apply it. that's the universal forum way

do opposite of that. Turn your tank over virtually, without blocking or hesitation, to a reef tuner.

like when you drop a car off at the garage, and leave lol

follow every step one person says, for three months. don't veer don't tune, ur at the garage ur not the garage if that makes sense. turn your tank over to a tuner. if that's your current rock above, certainly do not start over we could make music with all that.

the entire flow you provided, the leadup was crucial in assessment. some tuners would never have you do any of that. completely opposite means are avail so you shouldn't give up nor start over nor change rocks.


*the frags we buy bring in over time the very invaders that hands-off reefing allows to compound on rocks***

the entire approach to how you see and manage algae has to change. the current provided approach brought you here, the right fix wouldn't keep the current anti-algae arrangement approach in place, it would change markedly. to skip this turnaround chance would be to set your reefing back years...even though a new set of rocks will look shiny its a ruse-we can make these shiny
 
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in my opinion its crucial to your future reefing and investments to fix this tank as is, no blending or upgrading of anything until a realignment of steps gives you complete confidence in this system, with the current rocks. when you can command a downslope tank back into upslope, upgrade and downgrade all day long it will never be as a response to anything it will be a choice to make the change.
 
What most people do in this matter is sample from a bunch of offered ideas, pick what they think best, and apply it. that's the universal forum way

do opposite of that. Turn your tank over virtually, without blocking or hesitation, to a reef tuner.

like when you drop a car off at the garage, and leave lol

follow every step one person says, for three months. don't veer don't tune, ur at the garage ur not the garage if that makes sense. turn your tank over to a tuner. if that's your current rock above, certainly do not start over we could make music with all that.

the entire flow you provided, the leadup was crucial in assessment. some tuners would never have you do any of that. completely opposite means are avail so you shouldn't give up nor start over nor change rocks.


*the frags we buy bring in over time the very invaders that hands-off reefing allows to compound on rocks***

the entire approach to how you see and manage algae has to change. the current provided approach brought you here, the right fix wouldn't keep the current anti-algae arrangement approach in place, it would change markedly. to skip this turnaround chance would be to set your reefing back years...even though a new set of rocks will look shiny its a ruse-we can make these shiny
Unfortunately not. That's the live one
Thanks for the motivational word's
 
in my opinion its crucial to your future reefing and investments to fix this tank as is, no blending or upgrading of anything until a realignment of steps gives you complete confidence in this system, with the current rocks. when you can command a downslope tank back into upslope, upgrade and downgrade all day long it will never be as a response to anything it will be a choice to make the change.
Thanks hopefully it will come around
 
So this is a tank started with sterile dry rock? How many mo has this tank been up?

I think you either have a typo or you read wrong. Dry rock tanks typically take 1-2yrs with bacterial supplementation to be ready for Acros.

Have you been tracking Alk/CA/PO4/NO3? If so what are your values and which tests do you use?

Scrubber results indicate a nutrient imbalance. Dry rock is known to leech PO4 often leading to elevated PO4 in the presence of low nitrate. That could've what the scrubber is telling you.

Hth
 
It's a little hard to follow the chronological order. It sounds like you initially set up the first tank around 03/2019, then after several tank swaps, your current tank is from 01/2020? Slow and steady is definitely my advice. IMO it takes at least a year for a tank to be mature enough for acros, and if you transfer everything to a new tank, that timeline resets. I think you're rushing a bit and expecting instant results.

As far as avoiding pests, there's really no way to unless starting a brand new tank with new water, new equipment and dry rock. And even then, as you add corals, fish, etc. you can sometimes still introduce pests. The ONLY pest I would seriously consider restarting a tank for would be AEFW. IMO all other pests are beatable.

So as others have said, slow, slow, slow and let your tank mature. You'll get there.
 
Hi Steph and Divingtheworld.
Sorry, the post was more just a rant letting it out.
Thats why is not chronologically organized.

March 2019 - Tank started with live rock
SPS added within the first month and acros within two.
All was doing great, but I had quiet a few pests. So I decided to restart the tank with dry rock as the plan is to keep the aquarium for several years and I didn't want to fight them for years. All my previous tanks add been started with live rock and I belive here was my first mistake, believing the dry rock would be similar if I kept the parameters stable.
In August 2019 (after curing and cycling the rock fro about 3 months) I empty the tank, cleaned changed the rocks and transfer the live stock.
In December 2019 the tank bursted and we had to transfer everything (same sand, rock, livestock)
Everything did great for about two months, and then slowly it started to go down.

Don't take me wrong, while I love acros, they are not my favorite sps and I'm not super obsessed about keeping them. And in the order I made this year, all corals were in theory simpler. There are also plenty of examples in this forum of people keeping SPS in brand new tanks started with dead rock.

The experience I'm having with phosphate is the opposite. Since the start of the dry rock I have almost undetectable levels of phosphate (test is JBL. I have tested it with lab made solutions, and while its sometime difficult to distinguish between 0.050 and 0.1, its pretty easy to see the difference between 0 and 0.05).
I have started to dose phosphate at a rate of 0.05 ml/l and still its almost always reading 0. Every once in a while I get a faint blue color in the sample. If I had to guess its part due to the rock being uptaking it, but also we added some sand in the end of february (ATI white fiji) to our current sand bed (it was quit thin and lacking sand in several places). That seems to have made the issue worst.

Regarding the rest of the tests, they are all salifert:
On average
DKH 7.7-8
Calcium 390
Mag 1300
Nitrate between 1 and 5. Currently its around 15 since we did a black out a few weeks ago, after the last round of die offs.
Phosphate 0-0.02

Not really hopping for instant results, however, it is a bit annoying (probably due to being used to live rock and never trying dry rock before) that even doe all parameters are the same the results are so different.

Thank you both
 
Honestly I think your just going through the 1st yr uglies on a dry rock tank.

I know that sounds all touchy feely but that's coming from a scientist with a terminal degree in Biochem.

Looks like you just went through a battle with some green algae. From that thread it sounds like your ATS is producing turf algae. Can you post a pic of this? I took your comments here to indicate that you weren't getting ATS growth.

What's your fish list and number/type of snails?

Sorry for the confusion about this but if your system is able to produce green algae either in the display or on the ATS, then you prob don't actually have a lack of PO4 even in the presence of a low reading. The system is consuming a large excess of PO4 through algae and binding that is more efficient that SPS can compete with.

Honestly, I would rethink dosing Phosphate as it's likely just feeding nuisance algae at the moment (or worse, binding to your rocks).

Bank your frags in a friend's tank and let the algae run its course and be consumed by your CUC (turbos, sehare, urchins). That way the algae will compete against your rock for the free phosphate. Prob get a lot less bound to rocks and sand that way and won't have to deal with it leeching back out in the future (it will).

Either way I would find a friend with a Hanna ultra low range phosphorous checker and compare that reading to yours.

I have to say, I know you've read to the contrary, but none of this really seems that abnormal to me for a dry rock tank a few MO into setup. The general convention among SPS centric hobbyists is that what you are experiencing is what usually happens.
 
There are also plenty of examples in this forum of people keeping SPS in brand new tanks started with dead rock.

It's hard to not want to rush into corals, and sure you might find some examples of people who managed to keep them right away. I ignored the advice my first year too. I "knew better" and ended up killing hundreds of dollars in coral. I hope I'm wrong and you figured something out that most of us don't know, but from the description of your issues it doesn't sound like it. I wish you luck and hope you stick with it. Your tank WILL succeed one of these days, you just need to be patient. I see a lot of hobbyist's give up their first year and sell everything off. We need more to stick with this wonderful hobby!
 
Honestly I think your just going through the 1st yr uglies on a dry rock tank.

I know that sounds all touchy feely but that's coming from a scientist with a terminal degree in Biochem.

Looks like you just went through a battle with some green algae. From that thread it sounds like your ATS is producing turf algae. Can you post a pic of this? I took your comments here to indicate that you weren't getting ATS growth.

What's your fish list and number/type of snails?

Sorry for the confusion about this but if your system is able to produce green algae either in the display or on the ATS, then you prob don't actually have a lack of PO4 even in the presence of a low reading. The system is consuming a large excess of PO4 through algae and binding that is more efficient that SPS can compete with.

Honestly, I would rethink dosing Phosphate as it's likely just feeding nuisance algae at the moment (or worse, binding to your rocks).

Bank your frags in a friend's tank and let the algae run its course and be consumed by your CUC (turbos, sehare, urchins). That way the algae will compete against your rock for the free phosphate. Prob get a lot less bound to rocks and sand that way and won't have to deal with it leeching back out in the future (it will).

Either way I would find a friend with a Hanna ultra low range phosphorous checker and compare that reading to yours.

I have to say, I know you've read to the contrary, but none of this really seems that abnormal to me for a dry rock tank a few MO into setup. The general convention among SPS centric hobbyists is that what you are experiencing is what usually happens.

Hi Steph
Thanks for the help.
Since the start of that thread, maybe even before, the turf scrubber has being slowing down, going from turf to slime and also producing a lot less. I don't always pick up on it (to many things going on). A few weeks ago it would produce thick mats every 4 to 5 days. The picture below was taken today. I scrubbed it 3 days ago and its still not regrown (the turf algae I left behind, just removing the slime).
IMG_20200419_103751.jpg


Unfortunately no friends with tanks to keep the frags.

I'm starting to think that its just what its happening (start phase).
Still, I think is nutrient driven. Writen on the other post.

Thanks
 
It's hard to not want to rush into corals, and sure you might find some examples of people who managed to keep them right away. I ignored the advice my first year too. I "knew better" and ended up killing hundreds of dollars in coral. I hope I'm wrong and you figured something out that most of us don't know, but from the description of your issues it doesn't sound like it. I wish you luck and hope you stick with it. Your tank WILL succeed one of these days, you just need to be patient. I see a lot of hobbyist's give up their first year and sell everything off. We need more to stick with this wonderful hobby!
Hi
Thanks. Don't think I will figure what others haven't figured out.
Time will tell how it goes.
I don't tend to add corals until I think things are stable.
I will keep updating as things go along.
Thanks
 
Hi Mikeltee
Thanks. Why do you think the protein skimmer would help?
Always supper low on nutrients, not high.
A protein skimmer removes waste... bad nutrients like nitrates. A protein skimmer is the only thing you need as far as filtration is concerned and for nutrients, partial water changes deal with that. If you need more you add a kalk reactor. When the colonies get huge in say... 5 years, upgrade to a calcium reactor. I'd get rid of everything else you got as a protein skimmer is set it and forget it. You just empty a cup every other week with your bi-monthly 20min maintenance routine. Some, including myself, dont have a need for more than a 5% water change bi-monthly and we dont have issues.
 
Hi Mikeltee
Thanks. Why do you think the protein skimmer would help?
Always supper low on nutrients, not high.


Bc sometimes there's a difference between low nutrients and low test results. The description of your issues indicates an excess of nutrients exists that are feeding nuisance algae. A protein skimmer would help with that.
 
What snails and others do you have in your cleanup crew? Any algae grazing fish (baby Tang, foxface, rabbit, algae blenny) or inverts (Seahare, turbo snails, urchin)?
 
Hi Steph and Mikeltee.

First off, thank you both for the help.
Secondly, please do not misunderstand me. I thankful for the help you are providing, however, as Brandon mentioned above, many different opinions to follow them all.

Curerntly I know that:
-All test read low (I know the nutrients could be consumed faster then they can be read)
-Corals are losing color, not browning out.
-My ATS is producing a lot less, not more.
-While I do have a film of algae on the tank (rocks and sand) it does not look like a forest (picture below).
-I have two different algae. One that I can't identify (maybe euglena, but movement is not similar) and Dinos. Dinos are associated with low nutrients, not high.

The only one I'm sure is a problem and I can address directly is the Dinos. Everything else could just be as you sayd, tank to new to support SPS.
I have been adding the phosphate for about 2 weeks and I don't really see any negative effects (although I'm not really sure I can see improvements either).

Regarding CUC, mostly Banded Trochus snails and nassarius. Nassarius there are about 6 or 7 of them. Trochus not sure, they breed in the tank. Having said that I haven't seen a single one of them on the top surface of the rock since this started. They either stay on the underside of the rock or on the glass. I also have a tail spoted blenny. I have seen him pecking at the algae on the montis once or twice, but that was it.
I have finally found a LFS (within driving range) that still has mexican turbo snails, so I will had 3 tomorrow.

Thank you
 

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