Should I ship this or something else?

It sounds like the stand needs more than just shimming, as you said the legs were taller that the cross braces. If that’s the case it is going to create stress points and then cracks. I would sand any high spots on the top and bottom to get both flat. I would then cover the top with 3/4” marine grade plywood. If you plan to have a sump under your tank, I personally would remove the cross prices inside on the bottom and put plywood on the bottom. This will give you a lot more working room for a sump under the tank. Next I would place the stand where you want it and shim if needed as most floors are not 100% level. You want the top level side to side, front to back and corner to corner.
 
It sounds like the stand needs more than just shimming, as you said the legs were taller that the cross braces. If that’s the case it is going to create stress points and then cracks. I would sand any high spots on the top and bottom to get both flat. I would then cover the top with 3/4” marine grade plywood. If you plan to have a sump under your tank, I personally would remove the cross prices inside on the bottom and put plywood on the bottom. This will give you a lot more working room for a sump under the tank. Next I would place the stand where you want it and shim if needed as most floors are not 100% level. You want the top level side to side, front to back and corner to corner.

there’s going to be a sump… But I was going to put a piece of plywood on top of those braces. Are you saying that I don’t need those bottom braces?
 
This is a typical situation.
What tank is going on the stand?
Plastic rimmed glass, higher end glass, or acrylic tank?

I would not remove any of the wood framework.
I would use 3/4 plywood on the top.

First off finish your work on the stand and allow it to dry.
Moving around stands and reintroducing moisture into the wood via paints or other stuff will cause the stand to do this.

Then put it in place and see what your level shows.
Level it front to back side to side with shims.
Do yourself a favor and use the plastic shims not the cedarwood.
Shims get wet and the flimsy cedarwood shims will rott.

Once level and sturdy put the tank on the stand.
Tank dependant other steps may need to be taken.
 
This is a typical situation.
What tank is going on the stand?
Plastic rimmed glass, higher end glass, or acrylic tank?

I would not remove any of the wood framework.
I would use 3/4 plywood on the top.

First off finish your work on the stand and allow it to dry.
Moving around stands and reintroducing moisture into the wood via paints or other stuff will cause the stand to do this.

Then put it in place and see what your level shows.
Level it front to back side to side with shims.
Do yourself a favor and use the plastic shims not the cedarwood.
Shims get wet and the flimsy cedarwood shims will rott.

Once level and sturdy put the tank on the stand.
Tank dependant other steps may need to be taken.

A deep blue 90 gallon glass rimmed tank will go on it. I have cut a piece of sit on the top because I’m always paranoid.
There was another piece of plywood that will go on the supports at the bottom for a sump. It is also made out of glass with the rim
 
there’s going to be a sump… But I was going to put a piece of plywood on top of those braces. Are you saying that I don’t need those bottom braces?
if you but plywood under it you should not need all the internal cross braces on the bottom. Putting the plywood on top of the bottom cross braces may make it very hard to get into your sump to maintain a skimmer or return pump. An extra 4" will really help make access easier. In addition doing it that way you can seal the bottom of your stand to catch any spills. put your sump in now and see if you can get it in and out easily.
 
A deep blue 90 gallon glass rimmed tank will go on it. I have cut a piece of sit on the top because I’m always paranoid.
There was another piece of plywood that will go on the supports at the bottom for a sump. It is also made out of glass with the rim

I do not know what sit is.
I am sure the word sit was a typo or acronym.

Plywood on the top and bottom is perfect.
I highly recommend using a wood sealer like Olympia, or Thompsons on the plywood, then paint it.

Can you post a pic of the tank?
If it is a rimmed tank all the weight will be on the outer edges.

Hopefully you have a four or six foot level.
The stand needs to be leveled and the rim should be flat and straight.
The level should not bridge or cantilever over any part of the wood.

Again I do not in no way feel you should remove and wood members.
 
I do not know what sit is.
I am sure the word sit was a typo or acronym.

Plywood on the top and bottom is perfect.
I highly recommend using a wood sealer like Olympia, or Thompsons on the plywood, then paint it.

Can you post a pic of the tank?
If it is a rimmed tank all the weight will be on the outer edges.

Hopefully you have a four or six foot level.
The stand needs to be leveled and the rim should be flat and straight.
The level should not bridge or cantilever over any part of the wood.

Again I do not in no way feel you should remove and wood members.

well a little too late… I did remove the bottom braces because I did some research and they’re not necessary, they also add too much height to the sump.

I do have a 4 foot level, so I will ship it and make sure it is level.

and yes, it’s a deep blue 90 gallon, so all the weight will be on the perimeter.
And yes that was a typo it was just supposed to say “it.“

thx!
 
I have no idea why my phone keeps auto correcting SHIM to ship!!

it seems that I cannot edit the post? Either way here’s the update… What do you think?


 
Well you will have to shim the stand for sure. Most all wood stands have to be shimmed.

Finish it up first, paint, dry, plywood top ETC.
Place the stand where it will go and shim it level. Use plastic shims.
The garage floor is not the same flat or non flat surface as where the tank and stand will be placed. It is highly possible that you may have a worse surface than the garage floor.
So you shimming based on its current construction location compared to its final location will not be the same.

Once you have the stand in its final location and shimmed to level and solid.
Using your level make sure the top rails have no dips or high points.
You do not want the tank to be a bridge over a dip in the wood nor do you want the tank to cantilever over a corner.
 

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