Should i try higher nutrients for lps tank?

  • Thread starter Thread starter KDG730
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Yes. Why are you running it?

I was running to help with algae issues and to keep phosphate low. Up until recently i always thought nitrate and phosphate should be zero so i didnt think twice once i convert to a reef tank to not keep running it
 
I have a mixed reef, and used to keep an ultra nutrient system. While out of town for a month, my girlfriend let me nutrients get out of hand (in my head at the time they were). Came back and my nitrates went from 3-10 and my phosphate from 0.02 to .15. I was freaking out coming home, and I was shocked by the growth, the color, polyp extension, and the happiness of everything in my tank. I now keep my tank at 5 nitrates (does not move even if I try) and my phosphate at between .07-.11 and things have done better than before.
 
I have a mixed reef, and used to keep an ultra nutrient system. While out of town for a month, my girlfriend let me nutrients get out of hand (in my head at the time they were). Came back and my nitrates went from 3-10 and my phosphate from 0.02 to .15. I was freaking out coming home, and I was shocked by the growth, the color, polyp extension, and the happiness of everything in my tank. I now keep my tank at 5 nitrates (does not move even if I try) and my phosphate at between .07-.11 and things have done better than before.

Wow Thats awesome Thats what im looking for!
 
I was carbon dosing for about a month and my zoas and LPS hated it. As soon as I stopped they rebounded and look much happier
 
I have a mixed reef, and used to keep an ultra nutrient system. While out of town for a month, my girlfriend let me nutrients get out of hand (in my head at the time they were). Came back and my nitrates went from 3-10 and my phosphate from 0.02 to .15. I was freaking out coming home, and I was shocked by the growth, the color, polyp extension, and the happiness of everything in my tank. I now keep my tank at 5 nitrates (does not move even if I try) and my phosphate at between .07-.11 and things have done better than before.

How did you manage to sustain the higher nutrient levels going from an ULNS? I have. a similar issue, I literally have to dose nitrates every other day to maintain detectable levels. I don’t run a skimmer nor a refugium. I feed 2-3 times daily and have 5 fish in a 30 gallon tank. Don’t understand why I struggle so much with maintaining nutrients.
 
Different ways to reef here, disagree that you have to have higher levels. I have n03@1, phos @.01, both SPS and LPS are happy, colorful and growing including the scalpel cut scolys. I use KZ and feed tank with their products, and LPS pellets (once per week). Tests used: Nyos for nitrate and Hanna low phosphate, green desktop model. Carbon in bag a whopping 3 Tbs., zeolite reactor, skimmer.
 
I run a nitrate of 10-20. My 50 gallon has duncans, hammers, frogspawn, war coral, lepto, shrooms, and zoas. Everything is thriving. One duncan is budding 3 new heads in the past months and zoas lots of new polyps frequently.
 
I like Hanna for a phosphate ulr checker. Works well. I’ve heard you don’t want to run a fight fuge and gfo or other methods of nutrient export at the same time. LPS do like a dirtier tank! Good luck
 
Let me just say the API nitrate kit is junk! A while back I kept dosing nitrates because this kit kept saying 0ppm. I couldn’t figure it out. Then I ordered a Nyos nitrate kit. Highly recommended!!! And my nitrates were in fact much higher than 0ppm. More like 12 ppm. The Nyos kit is easy to use and is pretty dang accurate! Especially in the lower ranges. I’d recommend this kit to anyone. And definitely pick up the Hanna ULR phosphorus Checker. “HI736” ... I don’t run GFO, filter socks, etc. I keep my nitrates at about 5ppm with phosphates at .07-.12 With the accuracy range of the checker I don’t push .03.... Too close to zero. I keep mostly LPS and softies. I noticed my hammers and torches not expanding several months ago. The Problem was nutrient availability. Tested 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates. After bringing these levels up within range everything made a 100% improvement. Polyp extension and colors slowly got better after several weeks of dosing and everything is back to “normal”... I still have to dose for phosphate regularly, but not as much for nitrogen. I will never run a system with these levels at or near 0ppm again. We all know what can rear it’s ugly head when nutrients bottom out. Yup, dreaded dinos.:mad: But that’s another story. So yes to higher nutrients for this reefer!!!
Your LPS will thank you also! ;)
 
I agree i will try to pick up a better phosphate kit. The nitrate level on api is much clearer to read as yellow=0ppm and next level is 5ppm which is a much different color.
Just FYI, but API test kits are notoriously bad for saltwater. You need to ditch any API kits you have and get something much better. Perhaps Red Sea or Salifert. Honestly, though I wouldn’t even use API on a freshwater tank. They just aren’t accurate.
 
Ok thank you thats what i was wondering. I’ll need to pick up a better test kit for the phosphate and work on maybe removing a few to see how it goes

Any idea what would be proper nitrate/phosphate levels to shoot for?
Slowly remove your GFO. Cut your fuge hours, getter better test kits. Maybe run your skimmer for 20 hours per day instead of 24. I would recommend Triopic Marine NP-Bacto Balance. It adds phosphates and nitrates while carbon dosing. Start with 1/4 of the recommended dose and slowly increase until you get the numbers you want. Between .05-.1 phosphates and 5-10 nitrates would be great. Once your phosphates land where you want them, switch to Tropic Marines Bacto balance. It’s carbon dosing with a balance of phosphates and nitrates in the solution. Reefdudes YouTube channel has some great videos by Lou Ekus on his channel. Watch the carbon dosing and trace elements video. It’s good information that I think can help you
 
Let me just say the API nitrate kit is junk! A while back I kept dosing nitrates because this kit kept saying 0ppm. I couldn’t figure it out. Then I ordered a Nyos nitrate kit. Highly recommended!!! And my nitrates were in fact much higher than 0ppm. More like 12 ppm. The Nyos kit is easy to use and is pretty dang accurate! Especially in the lower ranges. I’d recommend this kit to anyone. And definitely pick up the Hanna ULR phosphorus Checker. “HI736” ... I don’t run GFO, filter socks, etc. I keep my nitrates at about 5ppm with phosphates at .07-.12 With the accuracy range of the checker I don’t push .03.... Too close to zero. I keep mostly LPS and softies. I noticed my hammers and torches not expanding several months ago. The Problem was nutrient availability. Tested 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates. After bringing these levels up within range everything made a 100% improvement. Polyp extension and colors slowly got better after several weeks of dosing and everything is back to “normal”... I still have to dose for phosphate regularly, but not as much for nitrogen. I will never run a system with these levels at or near 0ppm again. We all know what can rear it’s ugly head when nutrients bottom out. Yup, dreaded dinos.:mad: But that’s another story. So yes to higher nutrients for this reefer!!!
Your LPS will thank you also! ;)

ugh thats concerning. Mine always read zero on it. Need to get a better test
 
58E832E2-5B24-4849-B09C-A6C57D1E20DD.jpeg

Decided to follow api test kits instructions to a tee tonight (shaking bottle/cap letting color develop for 5mins) and this is what i got. Know you guys said they are inaccurate but i Never followed instructions like that prior

Looks like i might the exact opposite problem as i thought!? :(
 
I would also remove GFO. I have a LPS and softie tank and i dont use GFO. Keep in mind LPS isnt the fastest growing corals out there anyway. If the corals look healthy then imo that is the main thing.
 
People run to many things in their sumps because all kinds of threads here and online in general show super complex systems with all those things. Newcomers mimic because that's what they assume is needed to succeed, which in fact they're over-complicating before it's "needed" and creating problems for themselves in the process.
 
I'd even suggest adding more fish. More fish = more feeding = more waste = more nutrients.
 
58E832E2-5B24-4849-B09C-A6C57D1E20DD.jpeg

Decided to follow api test kits instructions to a tee tonight (shaking bottle/cap letting color develop for 5mins) and this is what i got. Know you guys said they are inaccurate but i Never followed instructions like that prior

Looks like i might the exact opposite problem as i thought!? :(


I guess no one checked my post from last night but i may have been completely wrong in creating this post due to invalid test results

lol i know api kit but levels actually seem way too high no?
 
I wouldn't trust API for a second. I love my Hanna ULR for Phosphates and Nyos for Nitrates.
 

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