Sicca 4.0 for sump return pump

[Bayareareefer18]

Wow man, I am glad you didn't give me advice on my plumbing when I started. If you didn't notice his return line from the overflow box in the background has two 90's in it . This would be so much cleaner if flex pvc was used and would also reduce stress on bulkheads.

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the 90s. Ignore this. Also imo hard plumbing is much cleaner than using flex everywhere.

Do you still have your home depot receipt ?

Have never really been a fan of those nylon barb fittings. You can get sch80 barbs from brs. You can also get them in slip and use a slip x slip union and can get rid of the threaded bushings.

Not a necessity just a suggestion.

If you stick with what you have be sure to use two pairs of channel locks to thread in this bushings but the others are correct they will never bottom out, especially dry. Did you use Teflon tape on them ?

 

[Trickman2]

The flex PVC just wasn't an option at this time. Down the road when we upgrade tanks, and money isn't as much an issue (paying rent on two places right now) than I can hopefully do a more professional set up.

Yeah I can understand that this hobby gets expensive quick.
The return pipe isn't as big of deal. You should get a couple of black plastic clamps but if money is super tight then a couple of heavy duty zip ties might be a good temp solution. As far as the overflow box goes I would try to eliminate any hard curves to allow the water flow freely. Water coming down the overflow boxes is low pressure and will be effected differently than a pressure pump. With that said if the overflow box is currently keeping up with the return pump then no worries.

 

[Bayareareefer18]

The flex PVC just wasn't an option at this time. Down the road when we upgrade tanks, and money isn't as much an issue (paying rent on two places right now) than I can hopefully do a more professional set up.

Hard plumbing is the more professional setup [emoji12]

 

[Trickman2]

Hard plumbing is the more professional setup [emoji12]

You guy's are hilarious...you act like I am against hard plumbing ;Hilarious. My new system say's otherwise https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/trickman2s-280-gallon-upgrade.369124

Every systems plumbing setup is different and has different variables. I would have plumbed this differently but with that said it sounds like money was a bigger part of the equation than normal.

 

[jaxteller007]

There is absolutely nothing wrong with the 90s. Ignore this. Also imo hard plumbing is much cleaner than using flex everywhere.

Do you still have your home depot receipt ?

Have never really been a fan of those nylon barb fittings. You can get sch80 barbs from brs. You can also get them in slip and use a slip x slip union and can get rid of the threaded bushings.

Not a necessity just a suggestion.

If you stick with what you have be sure to use two pairs of channel locks to thread in this bushings but the others are correct they will never bottom out, especially dry. Did you use Teflon tape on them ?

I have not used teflon tape or anything yet, other than channel locks. I didn't want to get everything so set that i could not take it apart if it was not set up correctly.
When you say teflon tape are you just talking about normal plumbers tape, like used when putting in a new shower head? Is that different than what was mentioned earlier (pvc thread sealant)? I need to go pick up an extension for the return to get it the last couple inches into the tank so I'll look for something better than the plastic bushing, maybe a metal one or find a slip union and use that instead of threaded.

 

[jaxteller007]

You guy's are hilarious...you act like I am against hard plumbing ;Hilarious. My new system say's otherwise https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/trickman2s-280-gallon-upgrade.369124/

Every systems plumbing setup is different and has different variables. I would have plumbed this differently but with that said it sounds like money was a bigger part of the equation than normal.

Yea the whole paying rent on two places is kind of killer for extra money right now. Thankfully that will end in another couple months but we wanted to go ahead and get this setup running. Who knows what could happen in a couple months.

 

[jaxteller007]

Oh and I definitely am adding the clamps (already have some but all i could find was metal clamps for the hose on the pump, should i not use those?), and of course some brackets for securing the piping.

 

[JoshH]

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[JoshH]

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[Bayareareefer18]

I have not used teflon tape or anything yet, other than channel locks. I didn't want to get everything so set that i could not take it apart if it was not set up correctly.
When you say teflon tape are you just talking about normal plumbers tape, like used when putting in a new shower head? Is that different than what was mentioned earlier (pvc thread sealant)? I need to go pick up an extension for the return to get it the last couple inches into the tank so I'll look for something better than the plastic bushing, maybe a metal one or find a slip union and use that instead of threaded.

Yes teflon tape = white thread sealing tape. Thread sealant (pipe dope) works very well and lets you get those threads in further but is messy. I agree be careful not to overtighten

I wouldn't use anything metal for fittings though. Was just making a suggestion that a sch80 barb is more durable buy is not a deal breaker

When you say extension to get over back of tank do you mean up over the back rim for return ? I wouldn't use flex there. I would hardplumb right up to the back rim then use a threaded adaptor for some locline or something. Or use two 90s to make an upside down U up and over the back

 

[jaxteller007]

Just all in good fun all advice given is good, 100 ways to plumb a tank and all at good as long as they don't leak

Well thankfully the overflow did not leak, granted that was just a couple cups of water poured in it to test. The real test will be when it's up and running, which unfortunately that will not be till later this week as CMA fest has us booked up all week.

 

[Trickman2]

Definitely not a good idea, they are okay temporarily but they WILL rust out and contaminate your tank, killing off your favourite corals along the way.

No metal clamps, just use some zip ties for now and make sure they as tight as you can get them.

 

[Bayareareefer18]

Definitely not a good idea, they are okay temporarily but they WILL rust out and contaminate your tank, killing off your favourite corals along the way.

+1. Brs sells really solid plastic clamps. That's what I used.

Remember salt is very corrosive.

You can order all your little minor plumbing parts through them and have it in a few days

 

[JoshH]

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[Trickman2]

Also zip ties would be okay for now as it doesn't have to be water tight...it is in the sump. You just need the hose not to come off the barbs.

 

[jaxteller007]

Yes teflon tape = white thread sealing tape. Thread sealant (pipe dope) works very well and lets you get those threads in further but is messy. I agree be careful not to overtighten

I wouldn't use anything metal for fittings though. Was just making a suggestion that a sch80 barb is more durable buy is not a deal breaker

When you say extension to get over back of tank do you mean up over the back rim for return ? I wouldn't use flex there. I would hardplumb right up to the back rim then use a threaded adaptor for some locline or something. Or use two 90s to make an upside down U up and over the back

No, i have the street elbows creating the U for the return into the tank. But the end of the last elbow is not quite low enough into the tank. I read that I should have that like 1/4 of an inch or so into the water level, and where it is sitting now, the water level would have to be almost to the top of the rim to hit it. So I figure I need to add something to that last elbow to get it into the tank. I can take a picture after work of how it is right now.

 

[Bayareareefer18]

No, i have the street elbows creating the U for the return into the tank. But the end of the last elbow is not quite low enough into the tank. I read that I should have that like 1/4 of an inch or so into the water level, and where it is sitting now, the water level would have to be almost to the top of the rim to hit it. So I figure I need to add something to that last elbow to get it into the tank. I can take a picture after work of how it is right now.

You can add a threaded bushing and some loc line with a nozzle. That will give you adjustability for flow pattern

Don't think it really matters where the pvc is. It's more important to have whatever nozzle you are using close to water surface so that you don't back siphon too much water into sump during a power failure or maintenance

 

[jaxteller007]

You can add a threaded bushing and some loc line with a nozzle. That will give you adjustability for flow pattern

Don't think it really matters where the pvc is. It's more important to have whatever nozzle you are using close to water surface so that you don't back siphon too much water into sump during a power failure or maintenance

I looked for loc line at my LFS but they did not have anything in stock large enough. The elbows are 1". But I guess i could get a reducing bushing to take it down to whatever size loc line and then go that way.

 

[Bayareareefer18]

I looked for loc line at my LFS but they did not have anything in stock large enough. The elbows are 1". But I guess i could get a reducing bushing to take it down to whatever size loc line and then go that way.

I reduced mine 1" to 3/4" locline with a wide tip flare nozzle but now I think I may would switch to RFGs

 

[Trickman2]

I looked for loc line at my LFS but they did not have anything in stock large enough. The elbows are 1". But I guess i could get a reducing bushing to take it down to whatever size loc line and then go that way.

A reducing bushing with 3/4 T adapter would work well. My local shop has one inch Loc-line adapters. It is not made by loc-line. Makes sure that one line on the return is high enough to break the siphon. On my last tank I drilled a small hole and put a drip-line 90 barb on top and a small hose as a siphon break. I always tried to keep one loc-line higher just in case also as a fail-safe.