Tonight is the second night that my clownfish has not eaten. I have a 29 gallon biocube, all params are good. I have one clownfish and one blue/green chromis. The chromis is fine and acting normal. On the other hand, my clownfish is hiding and refusing to eat. I can't see any parasites and he looks fine. He's not glancing off rocks, but his respiration rate might be a little high. I've had him close to 1 1/2 years and this is abnormal behavior. I'm suspecting possibly internal parasites. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Sick Clownfish?!?!
- Thread starter sundog101
- Start date
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melypr1985
totally addicted
If he is breathing rapidly you could suspect something in the gills. If you can do a fresh water dip on him that would confirm or rule out flukes which is the first think I think about when there is rapid breathing with no other visible symptoms.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Yes, Flukes can and will be in the gills and out of sight. It can be found in the eyes but by that point it's really bad.
Just to add... one genus (Neobenedenia) prefers the face, lips and eyes; therefore you may notice the skin color faded in those areas.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Yup yup... left that one out, but only because i wasn't 100% confident the info in my head was correct lol.
steelheader.262
Valuable Member
Need help determining what this is and how to treat.
I bought this clown home a week and a half ago along with its mate and both had been doing great.
Both just recently started hosting a BTA.
I have four other fish in my dispay that do not show any signs of sickness like the
clown pictured below.
Looks like skin flaking off or what happens to our skin when we get sun burn.
I bought this clown home a week and a half ago along with its mate and both had been doing great.
Both just recently started hosting a BTA.
I have four other fish in my dispay that do not show any signs of sickness like the
clown pictured below.
Looks like skin flaking off or what happens to our skin when we get sun burn.
steelheader.262
Valuable Member
Anyone ?
melypr1985
totally addicted
Looks like Brook to me. You didn't QT the new fish before adding to the display?
Brooklynella:
Symptoms – This is most often seen in clownfish, but it can afflict any fish. The fish’s skin will appear to be peeling or sloughing off, oftentimes causing excessive white mucous to form around the affected area(s).
Treatment options - Formalin bath, followed by additional formalin baths (as needed - but give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths). You can use formalin in a QT (at a much lower concentration than the bath), but great care must be taken to provide plenty of gas exchange as formalin will quickly deplete the water of oxygen. For this reason, doing baths is the safer option as the fish can be pulled from the formalin if showing signs of distress. Formalin-MS is preferred, as that contains 37% formaldehyde. However, in a bind, any medication containing formalin (ex. Quick Cure) is better than nothing. Alternative treatments for brook include metronidazole (ex. Seachem MetroPlex) and acriflavine (ex. Acriflavine-MS). A freshwater dip may provide temporary relief if you are unable to locate any of the aforementioned medications right away.
melypr1985
totally addicted
Here is how to use those meds.
Formalin: Treats Brooklynella and provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium). Also may be used as temporary relief, or even as an alternative treatment, for worms such as flukes and black ich.
How To Treat - Formalin is very interesting because its potential is not fully known. It is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes, following the dosage instructions on whatever bottle you use; or at 150 ppm if using "100% formalin" (ex. Formalin-MS). The bath should be done in a large glass bowl or container, and temperature should match the tank the fish is coming from. A bucket is not advised as plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use. It is imperative that you heavily aerate the bath solution for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.
For Brooklynella, multiple baths may be required (so long as symptoms persist), but it’s important to give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths. Formalin has also been used as alternative treatment for external worms such as flukes and black ich. However, at least 2 baths are required (7 days apart) for the same reason described when using Prazipro. For all of the above, post treatment, the fish should not be returned to the same tank/water he came from to prevent reinfection.
You can dose formalin directly in a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress - this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.
Pros - Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Formalin contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing water proof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.
Acriflavine: I have no first-hand experience with this medication, so everything I know about it comes from one LFS (treating Brooklynella), Google Scholar or other literature. It supposedly is effective against protozoans, bacterial infections and external fungal diseases; however Brook & Uronema are the only two I would bank on. It also is supposedly “reef safe”, so long as it is not mixed with any other medication (very important!)
How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Acriflavine is often mixed with other medications; howeverAcriflavine-MS is the pure form (and most likely to be “reef safe.”)
Pros - Alternative treatment for Brooklynella & Uronema (useful in locales where formalin is banned); possibly “reef safe.”
Cons/Side Effects - Acriflavine is a “new” medication (to me), so it’s full range of effect is not completely understood. Same goes for possible side effects.
Metronidazole: Treats internal parasites (worms), Brooklynella; possibly Uronema marinum.
How To Treat - Metro can be found as a stand-alone drug (ex. Metro+, Seachem MetroPlex) or incorporated into a multi-purpose medication (ex.API General Cure). It is best to soak it in the fish’s food; however it can also be dosed directly into a quarantine tank. Use until symptoms (white stringy poop) are gone.
Whether or not metro is “reef safe” is a topic for debate. The general consensus is that while soaking it in fish food IS “reef safe,” dosing it directly into the water column IS NOT and should only be done in quarantine.
Pros - Can be soaked in fish food, making it (somewhat) reef safe.
Cons/Side Effects - In my experience, certain fish seem to have an adverse reaction to it. But these are in the minority.
Formalin: Treats Brooklynella and provides temporary relief for Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium). Also may be used as temporary relief, or even as an alternative treatment, for worms such as flukes and black ich.
How To Treat - Formalin is very interesting because its potential is not fully known. It is best administered in a bath solution for 30-45 minutes, following the dosage instructions on whatever bottle you use; or at 150 ppm if using "100% formalin" (ex. Formalin-MS). The bath should be done in a large glass bowl or container, and temperature should match the tank the fish is coming from. A bucket is not advised as plastic may absorb some of the medication and then leach it back out during future use. It is imperative that you heavily aerate the bath solution for at least 30 minutes before and also during treatment to compensate for oxygen depletion. The fish should be placed in a premixed bath solution. DO NOT add more formalin after the fish is already in the bath.
For Brooklynella, multiple baths may be required (so long as symptoms persist), but it’s important to give the fish a day to recuperate in-between baths. Formalin has also been used as alternative treatment for external worms such as flukes and black ich. However, at least 2 baths are required (7 days apart) for the same reason described when using Prazipro. For all of the above, post treatment, the fish should not be returned to the same tank/water he came from to prevent reinfection.
You can dose formalin directly in a quarantine tank, but this can be risky due to the harshness of formalin and how quickly it can deplete the water of oxygen. Providing additional gas exchange to the QT is a must! A fish being treated must be monitored closely and should be removed if showing signs of distress - this applies when treating in QT or in the bath solution.
Pros - Treats or provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases. In some cases, formalin can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Formalin contains formaldehyde, a known carcinogen. Therefore, precautions must be taken when using it. Preventing your skin from coming in contact with it by wearing water proof gloves and not breathing in any fumes by wearing a face mask is highly recommended. Formalin also can be harsh on the fish and will quickly deplete oxygen from the water. In some areas, the purchase of formalin is prohibited.
Acriflavine: I have no first-hand experience with this medication, so everything I know about it comes from one LFS (treating Brooklynella), Google Scholar or other literature. It supposedly is effective against protozoans, bacterial infections and external fungal diseases; however Brook & Uronema are the only two I would bank on. It also is supposedly “reef safe”, so long as it is not mixed with any other medication (very important!)
How To Treat - Follow the directions on the label of whatever product you are using. Acriflavine is often mixed with other medications; howeverAcriflavine-MS is the pure form (and most likely to be “reef safe.”)
Pros - Alternative treatment for Brooklynella & Uronema (useful in locales where formalin is banned); possibly “reef safe.”
Cons/Side Effects - Acriflavine is a “new” medication (to me), so it’s full range of effect is not completely understood. Same goes for possible side effects.
Metronidazole: Treats internal parasites (worms), Brooklynella; possibly Uronema marinum.
How To Treat - Metro can be found as a stand-alone drug (ex. Metro+, Seachem MetroPlex) or incorporated into a multi-purpose medication (ex.API General Cure). It is best to soak it in the fish’s food; however it can also be dosed directly into a quarantine tank. Use until symptoms (white stringy poop) are gone.
Whether or not metro is “reef safe” is a topic for debate. The general consensus is that while soaking it in fish food IS “reef safe,” dosing it directly into the water column IS NOT and should only be done in quarantine.
Pros - Can be soaked in fish food, making it (somewhat) reef safe.
Cons/Side Effects - In my experience, certain fish seem to have an adverse reaction to it. But these are in the minority.
Paul B
10K Club member
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Reef Tank 365
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Rock Pool Reef Keepers
I am fairly sure that fish has Clownfish disease or Brooklynellosis. It is caused by a ciliated protozoan. It is common on wild caught clownfish. Of course for a definite disease you would need a microscope, but that is what it looks like from here. Unfortunately, your fish has an advanced case of it. The only "cure" that I know of for it (which may not work at this stage) is 15mg/l of chloroquine or formalin dips every day for 45 minutes at 150ppm.
I personally have not had, that I can remember, a clownfish with Brooklynellosis but I have used chloroquine numerous times. I used to get it from a pharmacist but I don't know where to get it now as I have not had to use it in a while. Formalin is easy to get. It should have dipping instructions on the bottle. Good luck
Oh I see that Meredith already responded
I personally have not had, that I can remember, a clownfish with Brooklynellosis but I have used chloroquine numerous times. I used to get it from a pharmacist but I don't know where to get it now as I have not had to use it in a while. Formalin is easy to get. It should have dipping instructions on the bottle. Good luck
Oh I see that Meredith already responded
jsker
Reefing is all about the adventure
Both great post and very helpful post. Please Keep it up. I lost two clowns and a tang this week. I am using the same method to treat the other two that are still alive with good results. I am not using the dip though.
steelheader.262
Valuable Member
Thank you for your help, will look into these treatments.
Hopefully not to late for the little guy.
Hopefully not to late for the little guy.
+1 to this being Brook. Looks like a pretty bad case of it too, IME. If you can't find the aforementioned chemicals right away, at least give the fish a FW dip:
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
Freshwater Dip: Provides temporary relief for Brooklynella, Flukes, Marine Velvet disease (Amyloodinium); possibly even Ich & Uronema marinum (both unproven). Can be used to confirm the presence of Flukes.
How To Treat - Fill a bucket with RODI water, and use a heater to match the temperature to the water the fish is coming from. Aerate the water heavily for at least 30 minutes prior to doing the dip, then discontinue aeration while performing the dip. Fish aren’t overly pH sensitive for short durations like this, but you can squirt a little tank water into the dip just before the fish goes in to help bring it up.
Place the fish in the freshwater (FW) dip and observe closely. It is not unusual for them to freak out a little at first. Also, tangs are notorious for “playing dead” during a FW dip. The important thing is to watch their gills; they should be breathing heavily at all times during the dip. If breathing slows, it’s time to exit the dip. Dip the fish for no longer than 5 minutes. Multiple dips may be done, but it’s important to give your fish a day to recuperate in-between dips.
For flukes, use a dark (preferably black) bucket so you can see if tiny white worms fall out of the fish (especially out of the gills) at around the 3-4 minute mark. The worms will settle to the bottom, so you can use a flashlight to look for them there as well.
Pros - Provides temporary relief for a wide range of diseases in a chemical free environment. Can “buy you more time” until a proper treatment can be done.
Cons/Side Effects - Not a permanent “fix” for any disease, as FW dips are not potent enough to eradicate all of the parasites/worms afflicting the fish. Some fish can have an adverse reaction to a FW dip by appearing unable to maintain their equilibrium once returned to the aquarium. If this happens, hold the fish upright (using latex, nitrile or rubber gloves), and gently glide him through the water (to get saltwater flowing through the gills again). It is also a good idea to place the fish in an acclimation box until he appears “normal”.
"Ruby Reef Rally" is a readily available product which contains acriflavine, and a LFS I advise has an almost 100% success rate using this product to treat Brook. However, your clownfish appears to be very badly infested. 
It's still worth a shot IMO..
It's still worth a shot IMO..
steelheader.262
Valuable Member
Yes just treated with Rally since I had some on hand.
Hopefully it makes it through the night.
Does Brook usually infect this badly over night, the fish had no signs that i could see.
Seem very happy swimming around with its mate and taking turns hosting in BTA.
Will update tomorrow, thanks again for all the info, never dealt with this before.
Hopefully it makes it through the night.
Does Brook usually infect this badly over night, the fish had no signs that i could see.
Seem very happy swimming around with its mate and taking turns hosting in BTA.
Will update tomorrow, thanks again for all the info, never dealt with this before.
