Sick green bubble nem

Drewseph

New Member
View Badges
Joined
Aug 1, 2018
Messages
7
Reaction score
1
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Hello,
I have added this green bubble anemone to my 69gal red sea max e-260 and first couple days he was doing great, but now every day I wake up and hes fallen face first into the sand after hiding u
20180801_103101.jpg
[/url] [/IMG] nder a rock with no light. I put him in the light, he attaches them blows up again and starts moving under a rock again. Hes done this 3 days in a row and now he polls like this. Any tips? Thank you
 
Can you provide us with some info to allow us to further assist you. Water parameters, lighting, how old is the tank and its inhabitants:)
 
I have two Hydra 26 (90watt ea) lights with 7 color channels.
Tank is 11 months old.
Most inhabitants have been in there 6-8 months. Total fish:6
Parameters:
Nirates:20
Ammonia: 0
Alkalinity: 7 dkH
Calcium: 500ppm
Salinity: 1.028
pH: 8.4
Phosphate: .25ppm
 
I have two Hydra 26 (90watt ea) lights with 7 color channels.
Tank is 11 months old.
Most inhabitants have been in there 6-8 months. Total fish:6
Parameters:
Nirates:20
Ammonia: 0
Alkalinity: 7 dkH
Calcium: 500ppm
Salinity: 1.028
pH: 8.4
Phosphate: .25ppm
While I don't think its causing your issue, salinity should be lowered to somewhere around 1.025-1.026. Also a low alk with a high calcium may be causeing issues. Do you notice any corals looking upset at all?
 
All of my coral are thriving... They have never looked healthier. it's so strange!
 
Now hes deflated and looks worse.

15331581686286392973545482497623.jpg
Definitely doesn't look good. I'd remove it before it dies and nukes your tank. When these guys die they release toxins that can wipe out your tank. Only thing I can think of is one of your parameters is making it upset, whether it be the nitrates or phosphates which could come down. Generally you want them around .02 phos and 5ppm or less nitrate.
 
I'm sorry. It is not well.

Have you considered between 1.024 to 1.026 instead of 1.o28 for a future attempt?

But yeah, I'm sorry to see the pic of it like this.
 
While I don't think its causing your issue, salinity should be lowered to somewhere around 1.025-1.026. Also a low alk with a high calcium may be causeing issues. Do you notice any corals looking upset at all?
 
Okay. thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to take him out as he seems to be deteriorating further. I'm going to focus on getting my parameters in check before attempting another anemone.
 
Can you post your light intensities and schedule?
 
What is the flow around him?

Put your hand (YES. DO IT) into the tank next to him and feel the flow there, and then put it around the place where he crawls into... If you feel at least some flow, move the anemone to a spot where you don't feel flow.

MOST Bubble tip anemones do not like flow at all, they seek a very low flow area and stay there (disclaimer: based on my experience). Mine wandered around the tank until he found a very low flow area, and he thrived there... until (keep reading)

Also what food are you feeding him? Green BTA's are very sensitive to the food they are fed. I had one die from food poisoning (because I gave him a piece of spoiled fish meat... I didn't find out that it was spoiled until after he passed away...)

Another thing is alkalinity. Anemones like alkalinity around 9, so if you can, you should increase it up there.

But here is the main problem... Anemones have character. Example :: If you take three GBTA's and put them in one tank. One will not like it, another one will love it, while the third will constantly seek a power-head to get chopped. Yes anemones are very picky.

So I will advise you to -
-Increase your alk to 9
-Put him in a low flow area
 
That nem is grouchy lookin'. I'm just a well wishing passer-byer. I hope it works out for you.

I understand the sniff test will let you know if its dead or not (similar to snails - they literally smell like death when they're dead). A healthy nem is not a stinky nem.
 
As others have mentioned, take the nem out and put it into quarantine. It's likely fighting and infection or just succumbing altogether.

For light and flow, I wouldn't worry as much as nems will move to where it will be happiest. Particularly BTAs.

The thing that has me most concerned is your nitrate 20 ppm may not be a lot but may be stressful for some BTAs.

If you QT the bta with clean water, keep and eye on the water quality. If you have access to cipro, it's a good idea to dose the water with it. The antibiotic seems to help many btas in dire situations.
 
Btw, what's the temp in your tank. BTAs will also do a melty thing in hotter tanks. 74-76F seem to be a good spot from my experience in my BTA tank (species only except a pair of clowns to help with grooming)
 
As others have mentioned, take the nem out and put it into quarantine. It's likely fighting and infection or just succumbing altogether.

For light and flow, I wouldn't worry as much as nems will move to where it will be happiest. Particularly BTAs.

The thing that has me most concerned is your nitrate 20 ppm may not be a lot but may be stressful for some BTAs.

If you QT the bta with clean water, keep and eye on the water quality. If you have access to cipro, it's a good idea to dose the water with it. The antibiotic seems to help many btas in dire situations.
I thought about that too... But most green bta's filter feed... Won't they like the extra nutrients?

On the other hand, 20 is too high...
 
BTAs don't filter feed... they are photosynthetic (unless bleached) and require occasional direct feeding to keep them healthy.

Usually when when there is a clownfish to host, the fish will feed the bta by either bringing it food or pooping in it ( [emoji13] ).

Mushrooms on the other hand require nitrates.
 
BTAs don't filter feed... they are photosynthetic (unless bleached) and require occasional direct feeding to keep them healthy.

Usually when when there is a clownfish to host, the fish will feed the bta by either bringing it food or pooping in it ( [emoji13] ).

Mushrooms on the other hand require nitrates.
Sorry... I didn't add that they are photosynthetic as well... Just I mean, Most GBTA's won't require as much feeding as (lets say) a haitian anemone...
 
Okay. thank you all for your input. I think I'm going to take him out as he seems to be deteriorating further. I'm going to focus on getting my parameters in check before attempting another anemone.

I truly am sorry to read of this.

Never give up.

As part of my studies in marine biology, I learned much and still make mistakes. Just not as often as I use to combined with experience in the hobby for ~45 years. There are several areas a BTA (of any kind) need with some important requirements I would like to share for your next BTA.

Water Quality
Anemones need high levels of dissolved O2, a salinity at 1.024 to 1.026, a stable pH between 8.1 and 8.3, temperatures between 76 and 78 F, calcium between 400 and 450, dKH at 8.0 to 12.0, magnesium between 1,250 and 1,350 ppm, nitrate at <20 ppm or less, stable phosphate at 0.002 ppm or less (0 is always best), and finally 0 ppm of ammonia and nitrite. Just as with most aquatic life, constant, stable parameters at or near the desired levels is key to a successful keeping a healthy and happy tank for the anemone(s) to thrive.

Aquarium Conditions/Factors and the maturity of the aquarium
Keeping anemones is very important to people who are newer to the hobby as compared to seasoned veterans. The reason being is that tanks that have been set up and running for less than 6 months can be prone to swings in water parameters. Most anemones cannot handle swings in water parameters very well at all.

Water and Flow Movement

Anemones need at least [/b]some water flow around them[/b]. They 'breathe' by absorbing oxygen directly from the water. In the ocean, anemones also need water flow to bring food to them and for carrying away waste. An anemone will need moderate to low water flow. One major common causes for an anemone not to be happy in the tank is that they do not like the water flow around them. This is one aspect which sometimes causes them to move until they find a spot they like. Some type of anemones are more tolerant of flows and water movement as compared to others

Lighting Requirements
Anemones as we already know need good lighting to survive, equally level for SPS corals which sounds like your lighting is great because your corals are thriving. As stated in another post the anemone does get a lot of their required nutrients through photosynthetic processes. They contain zooxanthellae as you're well aware and the algae within their tissues that will allow them to use light for nutrients. LED, Metal halides or T5 HO fixtures have been the best choices for light fixtures. If our lighting is just a little less than ideal for your anemone, we can somewhat compensate for that with some feedings.

Oxygen levels
Again, anemones do best when there is a good level of oxygen in the water which is not much different from other requirements of marine life. It is achieved by having good water movement at the surface of the water in the tank.

Feeding Anemones
Here's the debate of all debates IMO on feedings. Ask 100 people and get 100 different answers. ARG. Some people never feed their anemone anything and they remain healthy and grow in their tank(s) for years provided the lighting remains at the proper level for their anemone. IME I have kept my BTA's healthy and growing and splitting by feeding them about 2 or 3 times per month.

Foods often used tend to be meaty foods that are high in proteins such as shrimp scallops, clams.

Please stay away from silversides as many problems have come up over several years now regarding quality issues with silversides as compared to other, safer choices.

It is my hope this will help others interested in keeping BTA's and a few other anemones. The pic shown started ~2 years ago as a single BTA which has split umpteen times now.



38405295_10216419832511167_1048760116658044928_n.jpg
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

  • Yes!

    Votes: 32 45.7%
  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
Back
Top