Sick PBT

Mathew0

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We noticed what appeared to be ich on the powder blue Monday morning. I immediately put it in QT and got some Fritz copper safe. I added it around 10:30 am. By the afternoon I saw white spots on the purple and put it in QT as well. This morning it looked like it was working. Just now I checked and there seems to be more white spots, but more distressing, it appears that the skin on its nose is disintegrating. This looks almost the same as the puffer that died recently. Here are some photos

IMG_1398.jpeg IMG_1397.jpeg IMG_1395.jpeg IMG_1394.jpeg IMG_1393.jpeg
 
We noticed what appeared to be ich on the powder blue Monday morning. I immediately put it in QT and got some Fritz copper safe. I added it around 10:30 am. By the afternoon I saw white spots on the purple and put it in QT as well. This morning it looked like it was working. Just now I checked and there seems to be more white spots, but more distressing, it appears that the skin on its nose is disintegrating. This looks almost the same as the puffer that died recently. Here are some photos

IMG_1398.jpeg IMG_1397.jpeg IMG_1395.jpeg IMG_1394.jpeg IMG_1393.jpeg
The larger, more protruding white things are mucus plugs. Those are a reaction to some irritant - ich, flukes and even copper can cause them.
The mouth issue is an injury, maybe from the move or becoming frightened in the QT and running into something. Is the fish still eating?
Jay
 
Looks like ich + lympho on the PBT. Could also use kanaplex (antibiotic) if the nose infection gets worst and not better.
 
@Jay Hemdal Should I also be adding antibiotics to the QT?
I'm actaully getting worried about the purple now, if the PBT has a secondary infection. I don't want him to get it too.
 
@Jay Hemdal Should I also be adding antibiotics to the QT?
I'm actaully getting worried about the purple now, if the PBT has a secondary infection. I don't want him to get it too.

Is the mouth lesion getting larger?
What is the ammonia level in the QT?

You could go with a broad spectrum, gram negative antibiotic - Neoplex is one option.

Jay
 
It hasn't really changed since last night.
I have an ammonia badge that is still in the yellow.
I keep the tank running all the time with some biopellets and piece of rock and feed when there's no fish to keep the nitrifying bacteria alive. Then when I need it, I do a 100% water change and put the fish in. That way there's a way to keep the ammonia in check.
After a qt, I put the rock and bag of pellets in a bucket of fresh salt water, then I drain, dry, and sanitize the tank (and HOB filter) with peroxide before refilling and putting the rock and pellets back in.
 
It hasn't really changed since last night.
I have an ammonia badge that is still in the yellow.
I keep the tank running all the time with some biopellets and piece of rock and feed when there's no fish to keep the nitrifying bacteria alive. Then when I need it, I do a 100% water change and put the fish in. That way there's a way to keep the ammonia in check.
After a qt, I put the rock and bag of pellets in a bucket of fresh salt water, then I drain, dry, and sanitize the tank (and HOB filter) with peroxide before refilling and putting the rock and pellets back in.

Since it isn't eating, its condition is not stable. I would start antibiotics for that mouth lesion (the most likely cause for it not eating).

Jay
 
OK, I'll pick that up and start that this afternoon.
Should I leave the Purple Tang in there with the Powder Blue?
@Jay Hemdal

I would treat them both, since they were both exposed.

Jay
 
@Jay Hemdal
I reduced the temp to 74 based on your hypo salinity article, but I’ve read elsewhere to increase the temperature to speed up ich life cycle.
Which should I be doing?
 
@Jay Hemdal
I reduced the temp to 74 based on your hypo salinity article, but I’ve read elsewhere to increase the temperature to speed up ich life cycle.
Which should I be doing?

Well, there is some confusion. I didn't mention 74 degrees, but I did mention 75 degrees - but that was in reference to measuring specific gravity (temperature affects that). Later on in the article it says this: "Don't raise the water temperature beyond normal. That is a treatment for freshwater ich, not marine ich. 79 degree F. is a good target temperature."

You'll read to "raise the water temperature to treat ich" - that is all wrong for marine ich. Like many things on the Internet, bad information gets spread around. 84 degrees is the "sweet spot" from marine ich, so raising the water temperature just makes the parasite population stronger, while lowering the dissolved oxygen levels. Freshwater ich is a different parasite and is actually killed by warmer temperatures.

Jay
 
Awesome! Thanks. I'll bring it back up a bit over the next couple of days.
Good news is that there are no white spots on either fish. The PBT has a couple of slightly darker blemishes on one side that I'll keep an eye on. If it was a person, I'd say it looks like a bruise. I don't know if fish bruise, tho. She also has some fin loss on the tail and the dorsal, but I think that's most likely from scratching and some minor aggression between the 2 tangs. They are now both eating again, too.
 

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