Sick to my stomach :(

[mamacta]

So both of the clowns and the RG have died. That darn YWG is still looking good and eating the medicated food great. My water parameters haven't changed a bit, still looking real good. I'm at a loss as to what to do now. I am getting a 10G QT tank today. Not sure where I'm going to put it but I'll figure it out. Do I put the YWG in the QT tank and let the DT fallow? The QT will need to cycle and everything first right? And I don't want to use anything from my DT to help it cycle, correct? Or do I just leave him in the DT and keep feeding him medicated food? I feel like I'm just going to infect my QT tank if I put him in there and the reason I want a QT is for any future new fish. I definitely do not have room for both a hospital tank and a QT. Ugggh.

 

[jfoahs04]

So both of the clowns and the RG have died. That darn YWG is still looking good and eating the medicated food great. My water parameters haven't changed a bit, still looking real good. I'm at a loss as to what to do now. I am getting a 10G QT tank today. Not sure where I'm going to put it but I'll figure it out. Do I put the YWG in the QT tank and let the DT fallow? The QT will need to cycle and everything first right? And I don't want to use anything from my DT to help it cycle, correct? Or do I just leave him in the DT and keep feeding him medicated food? I feel like I'm just going to infect my QT tank if I put him in there and the reason I want a QT is for any future new fish. I definitely do not have room for both a hospital tank and a QT. Ugggh.

Sorry for your losses! It's the worst part of this hobby. You'll probably want to move the goby to the QT and let the DT go fallow (if you're not certain if it's ich or velvet, go for the longer ich fallow period as it will also ensure you're rid of the velvet too).

Here's a guide on how to do a simple QT setup. You should not need to do a full cycle, but you will need to closely monitor ammonia and be ready with large water changes should it be an issue. There are great tips in that guide on how to seed the QT with nitrifying bacteria, but I personally keep a stash of rock rubble in my sump that I can plop into my HOB filter in the QT/HT. The rock rubble absorbs medication so it can't be used again in the DT, but it's a good way keep ammonia in check right off the bat.

Don't worry about "infecting" your QT. The point of these QT/HTs is to be setup and broken down quickly and easily to promptly treat most common diseases. If you effectively treat for ich/velvet in the QT, it won't be "infected" after the treatment (which is also the goal for the fish). The problem with treating the DT directly is that the treatments will kill inverts and coral (and be absorbed by your rock so it never goes away) as well as the parasite you're trying to eliminate. That's why you do it in a separate tank (and NEVER put the QT water or filter media in the DT), and let the DT remain "fallow" so the parasite goes away on its own after not having fish to complete its lifecycle. I'd break the QT down and clean between treating your YWG and using it for adding and QTing new fish later on anyway, but again, permanently tainting the QT isn't really something to worry about if you're treating the disease correctly.

 

[mamacta]

Sorry for your losses! It's the worst part of this hobby. You'll probably want to move the goby to the QT and let the DT go fallow (if you're not certain if it's ich or velvet, go for the longer ich fallow period as it will also ensure you're rid of the velvet too).

Here's a guide on how to do a simple QT setup. You should not need to do a full cycle, but you will need to closely monitor ammonia and be ready with large water changes should it be an issue. There are great tips in that guide on how to seed the QT with nitrifying bacteria, but I personally keep a stash of rock rubble in my sump that I can plop into my HOB filter in the QT/HT. The rock rubble absorbs medication so it can't be used again in the DT, but it's a good way keep ammonia in check right off the bat.

Don't worry about "infecting" your QT. The point of these QT/HTs is to be setup and broken down quickly and easily to promptly treat most common diseases. If you effectively treat for ich/velvet in the QT, it won't be "infected" after the treatment (which is also the goal for the fish). The problem with treating the DT directly is that the treatments will kill inverts and coral (and be absorbed by your rock so it never goes away) as well as the parasite you're trying to eliminate. That's why you do it in a separate tank (and NEVER put the QT water or filter media in the DT), and let the DT remain "fallow" so the parasite goes away on its own after not having fish to complete its lifecycle. I'd break the QT down and clean between treating your YWG and using it for adding and QTing new fish later on anyway, but again, permanently tainting the QT isn't really something to worry about if you're treating the disease correctly.

Thank you! This is very good information which I am desperately needing right now

 

[Chefwheredyougo]

Thanks for your response. I do have an acclimation box (now) that I was trying to get the Royal into for time out. If the Royal shows up and is still aggressive I will try to get the goby in there for a bit. I am just disappointed as I relied on my LFS to help me choose my first fish. They knew I wanted a very peaceful tank with peaceful inhabitants and the Royal was one of their suggestions. I think I’m the one who needs to take a time out now

As sad as it is, LFS are businesses and need to make money as well. With that being said, not all are knowledgeable, and not all care what happens when you leave the store. It’s up to you to do research on the compatibility of the inhabitants you want in your tank. To a lot of them, new hobbyists are just a dollar sign that will drop a lot of money early on and leave the hobby within a few months.

 

[Bpb]

Saltwater fish behave very differently depending on their environment. In general, they will all be more aggressive and territorial than new hobbyists expect. Especially if you came from keeping freshwater community fish.

That being said, royal gramma will generally be more aggressive in smaller tanks. Just a fact of life. I’ve had my gramma for 10 years now, and I got him from another local who attempted him in a 32 gallon bio cube as well but watched it kill every other fish and invert in the tank. He wanted to flush the fish in anger but I told him I’d take it. It happily resides in my 150 gallon and has never so much as looked sideways at another fish. I believe this is due to now having ample space to have a large territory. He is even tolerant of other fish in his territory.

I experienced the same thing with my 18 year old clarkii clown. She was a terror in the bio cube she started in, and even in the 55 gallon as well. Couldn’t even put my hand in the water. In the 150 gallon, she’s totally docile.

There will be a lot of trial and error in this hobby, and the pet store is the last place anyone should go for advice. Their goal is to make a sale. I’ve seen them sell clownfish knowing full well they’re going in a 1/2 gallon goldfish bowl.

 

[mamacta]

Saltwater fish behave very differently depending on their environment. In general, they will all be more aggressive and territorial than new hobbyists expect. Especially if you came from keeping freshwater community fish.

That being said, royal gramma will generally be more aggressive in smaller tanks. Just a fact of life. I’ve had my gramma for 10 years now, and I got him from another local who attempted him in a 32 gallon bio cube as well but watched it kill every other fish and invert in the tank. He wanted to flush the fish in anger but I told him I’d take it. It happily resides in my 150 gallon and has never so much as looked sideways at another fish. I believe this is due to now having ample space to have a large territory. He is even tolerant of other fish in his territory.

I experienced the same thing with my 18 year old clarkii clown. She was a terror in the bio cube she started in, and even in the 55 gallon as well. Couldn’t even put my hand in the water. In the 150 gallon, she’s totally docile.

There will be a lot of trial and error in this hobby, and the pet store is the last place anyone should go for advice. Their goal is to make a sale. I’ve seen them sell clownfish knowing full well they’re going in a 1/2 gallon goldfish bowl.

I have been getting my fish information mostly from liveaquaria.com. As far as temperament, ease of care, tank size requirements etc. Is that not reliable? The LFS I’ve been using is strictly a fish store. Freshwater, marine, pond fish etc so I was trusting their recommendations. It seems everyone has different stories about every type of fish so it’s so hard to tell!! One person can have a RG in a 30G who is a princess and another person (me) has one who is a devil!

 

[Bpb]

I have been getting my fish information mostly from liveaquaria.com. As far as temperament, ease of care, tank size requirements etc. Is that not reliable? The LFS I’ve been using is strictly a fish store. Freshwater, marine, pond fish etc so I was trusting their recommendations. It seems everyone has different stories about every type of fish so it’s so hard to tell!! One person can have a RG in a 30G who is a princess and another person (me) has one who is a devil!

There are no hard lines or absolute rules on what the personality of a fish might be. There will be some variation. But generalities can absolutely be made. Live Aquaria recommendations aren’t real in depth. A gallonage recommendation doesn’t tell the whole story.

 

[Kiboshed]

I have been getting my fish information mostly from liveaquaria.com. As far as temperament, ease of care, tank size requirements etc. Is that not reliable? The LFS I’ve been using is strictly a fish store. Freshwater, marine, pond fish etc so I was trusting their recommendations. It seems everyone has different stories about every type of fish so it’s so hard to tell!! One person can have a RG in a 30G who is a princess and another person (me) has one who is a devil!

1st stop taking fish advice from people who have a vested interest in selling you fish. Lol Come here.

Next I am very sorry for your loss and your struggles. I am also new to this hobby and thankfully have not had to face half of what you have. I feel though that you will be all the more proud and confident knowing you have faced these conflicts and over came them. I believe in you.

Lastly a little tid bit about catching pesky fish. Try it at night or in a dark room with a head lamp and a black net with the aquarium lights off. Let the fish sleep and become complacent then scoop them up with the net while they are lethargic and disoriented. Hear a red head lamp works even better. It worked for me at least.

 

[mamacta]

This was mine.
Jimi Hendrix, AKA, Mr. McGrumpy Pants...
Hang in there!

This is my guy. His QT tank is just about ready. What a trooper he is.

 

[Lavey29]

You can't have a successful QT unless you know what you are treatment for due to complete different types of meds. We really needed to see pics of the struggling fish before they died. Ich was suggested but clowns are well know for brook. Please try and provide all symptoms and observations of the fish before they passed. Ich spots disappear over night and reappear the next day in different areas on the fish. Brook has white specs all over and a cloudy dusty looking mucus coating on the fish.

 

[mamacta]

You can't have a successful QT unless you know what you are treatment for due to complete different types of meds. We really needed to see pics of the struggling fish before they died. Ich was suggested but clowns are well know for brook. Please try and provide all symptoms and observations

of the fish before they passed. Ich spots disappear over night and reappear the next day in different areas on the fish. Brook has white specs all over and a cloudy dusty looking mucus coating on the fish.

I didn’t save any pictures. I did show pictures to LFS who agreed it was ich. As for signs/symptoms: white spots that looked like sprinkled salt, lots of flashing (like tons), gasping, not eating. I did not notice any mucus of any kind. In any case I only have one fish left at this point and he does not seem to be affected as of yet. I will watch for symptoms and treat accordingly

 

[jabberwock]

Looks like you are heading in the right direction! We are all pulling for you!