Silicone turning green

[pryan1008]

Any idea why this would be happening? I let the silicone cure for probably a month or so before adding water to the tank. I'm positive it's not algae and it's only happening to to the baffles I put in not the silicone on the tank itself.

I would love for it not to be green but I just really want to make sure it's not going to poison my fish or coral. Thanks!

 

[crusso1993]

Any idea why this would be happening? I let the silicone cure for probably a month or so before adding water to the tank. I'm positive it's not algae and it's only happening to to the baffles I put in not the silicone on the tank itself.

I would love for it not to be green but I just really want to make sure it's not going to poison my fish or coral. Thanks!

IT looks like PVC but, just to be sure, what is the material used for the baffles?

 

[pryan1008]

IT looks like PVC but, just to be sure, what is the material used for the baffles?

Baffles are made of Corian. It's a material used for countertops, 100% acrylic. I've seen some other people use it for baffles and even tanks so I figured it was safe.

 

[crusso1993]

Any idea why this would be happening? I let the silicone cure for probably a month or so before adding water to the tank. I'm positive it's not algae and it's only happening to to the baffles I put in not the silicone on the tank itself.

I would love for it not to be green but I just really want to make sure it's not going to poison my fish or coral. Thanks!

Also, it looks like you have 3 heaters and a temp sensor in the first sump section. If this is the case, FWIW, I would suggest changing it to a heater in each section of the sump and running the temp sensor on the main display. Reason being you'll get more even heating and you really want the temp of the water in the display.

 

[theMeat]

Following

 

[crusso1993]

Baffles are made of Corian. It's a material used for countertops, 100% acrylic. I've seen some other people use it for baffles and even tanks so I figured it was safe.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but Corian is not 100% acrylic and definitely not reef safe. You want to remove those baffles ASAP and replace with either glass, PVC or acrylic.

 

[crusso1993]

I am not 100% exactly sure what it is but there is a chemical reaction happening between the Corian, silicone and salt water.

Corian is a brand of solid surface material created by DuPont. Its primary use is as a countertop/benchtop surface, though it has many other applications. It is composed of acrylic polymer and alumina trihydrate (ATH), a material derived from bauxite ore.

 

[pryan1008]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but Corian is not 100% acrylic and definitely not reef safe. You want to remove those baffles ASAP and replace with either glass, PVC or acrylic.

I was hoping that wasn't the issue. I've seen other people use it successfully and I can get it at work for free so I was really hoping it would work. I guess I'll pick up another 20 long and figure out where to get glass for baffles just to be safe.

Also I heard before you should have the temp probe and heater in the same section so if the return broke the heaters don't just heat the one section of the sump constantly. Is that not the case? It does make sense that the sensor should be in the display.

 

[crusso1993]

I was hoping that wasn't the issue. I've seen other people use it successfully and I can get it at work for free so I was really hoping it would work. I guess I'll pick up another 20 long and figure out where to get glass for baffles just to be safe.

Also I heard before you should have the temp probe and heater in the same section so if the return broke the heaters don't just heat the one section of the sump constantly. Is that not the case? It does make sense that the sensor should be in the display.

I'd be curious to know who might be using Corian, in a submersed application, that has success with it. If they are, I would presume that it is very short lived or they're not using real Corian. I say this because bauxite ore is rock with high aluminum content. As a matter of fact, bauxite ore is the main source of aluminum for the world.

I hear what you're saying about the return pump failing and the heaters staying on in the sump. However, if the return fails and the heaters are set to, let's say, 78 degrees, why would they continue heating past 78 degrees? I hope I understand you correctly and this makes sense.Oh, sorry, I should ask how are you controlling the heaters?

 

[Greg P]

Having the heater and temp probes in the same chamber is not an issue as long as there's constant flow. It also keep the heater turned off during pump off situations such as a water change.
Having the heater at say the back of the sump baffle, and the temp probe at the front of the sump baffle is a good idea.

As for your baffles, you can easily have a Glass Shop custom cut proper glass, not acrylic/lexan etc for your sump. Plex and silicone do not play well together longterm.

Have your glass baffles cut up to or slightly over 1/8" smaller front-to-back than your desired baffle to allow for silicone adhesion.
Use tooth picks to space the baffles away from the glass and remove after you inject the silicone. Smooth in/over the tooth pick holes and wait for the silicone to set.
Wait a minimum 72 hours and then leak test your baffles before putting your sump back into service.

 

[pryan1008]

I'd be curious to know who might be using Corian, in a submersed application, that has success with it. If they are, I would presume that it is very short lived or they're not using real Corian. I say this because bauxite ore is rock with high aluminum content. As a matter of fact, bauxite ore is the main source of aluminum for the world.

I hear what you're saying about the return pump failing and the heaters staying on in the sump. However, if the return fails and the heaters are set to, let's say, 78 degrees, why would they continue heating past 78 degrees? I hope I understand you correctly and this makes sense.Oh, sorry, I should ask how are you controlling the heaters?

One example is Billy Pipes on YouTube it seems he has been using it for quite a while with no issues () an older video of a sump he built but he has recent videos of similar sumps with Corian baffles.

I am going to change over to glass baffles to be 100% safe though. Not looking forward to getting that sump out of my stand it's a tight fit lol

I am using the BRS inkbird heater controller (really wish it had a low temp alarm. Only found out 2 75 watt heaters aren't enough when I felt cold water when feeding the fish) . And your right there is a thermostat on the heater itself so my thinking didn't really make much sense. I'll move everything around when I change out the sump.

Thanks for the help!

 

[pryan1008]

Having the heater and temp probes in the same chamber is not an issue as long as there's constant flow. It also keep the heater turned off during pump off situations such as a water change.
Having the heater at say the back of the sump baffle, and the temp probe at the front of the sump baffle is a good idea.

As for your baffles, you can easily have a Glass Shop custom cut proper glass, not acrylic/lexan etc for your sump. Plex and silicone do not play well together longterm.

Have your glass baffles cut up to or slightly over 1/8" smaller front-to-back than your desired baffle to allow for silicone adhesion.
Use tooth picks to space the baffles away from the glass and remove after you inject the silicone. Smooth in/over the tooth pick holes and wait for the silicone to set.
Wait a minimum 72 hours and then leak test your baffles before putting your sump back into service.

Thanks! I'll call around to find a glass shop tomorrow. Do you recommend 1/4" glass or thicker? I used picture frame glass on my previous sump I think it's 3/16 and I was constantly worried about breaking it. I'm pretty sure the tank itself is only 1/4" glass so that should be fine?

 

[theMeat]

One example is Billy Pipes on YouTube it seems he has been using it for quite a while with no issues () an older video of a sump he built but he has recent videos of similar sumps with Corian baffles.

I am going to change over to glass baffles to be 100% safe though. Not looking forward to getting that sump out of my stand it's a tight fit lol

I am using the BRS inkbird heater controller (really wish it had a low temp alarm. Only found out 2 75 watt heaters aren't enough when I felt cold water when feeding the fish) . And your right there is a thermostat on the heater itself so my thinking didn't really make much sense. I'll move everything around when I change out the sump.

Thanks for the help!

The controller on the thermostat itself should be 1-2 degrees hotter than what you set probe controller. Good idea to check/dial in temp separately, in a bucket of water, on each heater itself. They’re notorious for the dial not being accurate

 

[X-37B]

Thats an unusually high sump level. Most sump levels are half the tank height to allow for enough back flow from the main system when the power goes off.
I do not run any baffles on my 40 breeder sump with no issues.

 

[theMeat]

Thats an unusually high sump level. Most sump levels are half the tank height to allow for enough back flow from the main system when the power goes off.
I do not run any baffles on my 40 breeder sump with no issues.

Baffles make it so the only water level in sump that fluctuates with evap is the final return section. Especially helpful for skimmer.
It does look high

 

[pryan1008]

Thats an unusually high sump level. Most sump levels are half the tank height to allow for enough back flow from the main system when the power goes off.
I do not run any baffles on my 40 breeder sump with no issues.

The sump does have enough room for the back flow when the pump turns off but it is a little close. Only 2 or so gallons of water away from overflowing with the pump off. Since I am going to be rebuilding the sump anyway I will probably lower the baffle height an inch or so to be extra safe. I would like to run a chaeto refugium in the middle section eventually which is why I have the baffles