Siliconing my baffles

[Trever]

I got my glass panels from a local glass guy, have my aqueon tank for the sump.

But I fear that I've gotten in way over my head, had no idea I'd need this kind of equipment:

 

[redfishbluefish]

NO! A tube of GE Silicone I, masking tape, a black Sharpie, tape measure, a builder's square and the tank and baffles and you're all set to go.

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

I didnt watch ur video but whats your fear? As said. Some aquarium silicon from aqueon. Some tape. Maybe some small square things to brace the baffles in place as they dry. You can lean the tank over. Stand it up. Ect.
You got this! Just glueing baffles in place basically. You can add dabs just to hold in place for now and apply the bead to seal after if needed.
Hths ya. U got this!
D

 

[Trever]

Never done this before so advice appreciated and I'm listening!

But... that video was a joke. You should watch it- I had no idea stuff like that existed! Crazy.

 

[Trever]

For example, on the serious note:

Can I silicone one side of a panel (the other side supported with a triangle/square thing I bought at the hardware store), let it firm up so it can stand on it's own, then remove the square and do that (opposite) side? So one side at a time?

I would imagine that's fine but I would also imagine the silicone "meets" the other side at the gap between the panels in the tank, so I don't know if that's bad (dry and wet silicone).

In the case of the filter sock tray, the where glass meets glass (baffle glued to a glass piece with a filter sock hole, then glued to another baffle) there will be NO gap. Do I take the same approach though?

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Yes u can do your baffles that way. 1 day time cure. Do the other side. Idk what filter sock your adding... this is a basic black rimmed tank ur turning into a sump? U had glass baffles cut at a glass shop so the dimensions are nice and tight? Not a big gap to fill?
D

 

[redfishbluefish]

Never done this before so advice appreciated and I'm listening!

But... that video was a joke. You should watch it- I had no idea stuff like that existed! Crazy.

But it's not April Fool's Day yet!


I'll tell you how I build sumps, and I've done my fair share. First plan....and this is the hardest part. Figure how big each compartment needs to be and maybe even do a cardboard mock-up to make sure you can get the skimmer out. Once that's done, I use a Sharpie to draw lines on the outside of the tank showing location of both sides of the baffle, and the top of the baffle as well. This is where I use a builder's square to make sure my lines are vertical. If you look closely at this picture, you can see the Sharpie lines.

Once the lines are all drawn, even on the bottom, I supply a bead of silicone inside the tank, within the lines for one of the baffles. Now I take the baffle and holding at a angle, place the bottom edge on the lines on the bottom of the tank. Now I start to straighten up the baffle to the side lines, and in the process, most of the silicone mushes to the far side of the baffle. I now use my finger (and you can get plastic scrapers for this as well) to smooth out the extra silicone on the far side of the baffle....all the way around. I now take the gun and apply a bead on the near side of the baffle, and again, use my finger to smooth it out. If you want a real pretty sump, you can use painter's tape (or just masking tape) about 3/16" from your Sharpie lines, on the inside of the tank. Once your done with the silicone, remove tape to give you a sharp edge. I don't do this because I'm simply into function and don't worry much about looks of the sump. If need be, use masking tape to hold the baffle in place while the silicone cures.

Repeat for other baffles.

When your done, a little rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl) or Windex will remove the Sharpie lines.

And here's the most important part.....let the silicone cure. I prefer a minimum of a week. And this is for two reason....strength of the bond and nasties leaching out of the silicone.

 

[HJ99]

Here's a pic when I was building mine. I followed the GMC instructions and left between 1/16 and 1/8 gap then shot the silicone in. I ended up having to cut the baffle on the left out and moving to accommodate my filter roller. I was glad to have the gap since I could get thin wire in and cut the silicone. I can assure you that glass siliconed to glass does not come apart easily even with a gap !

 

[Lost in the Sauce]

For example, on the serious note:

Can I silicone one side of a panel (the other side supported with a triangle/square thing I bought at the hardware store), let it firm up so it can stand on it's own, then remove the square and do that (opposite) side? So one side at a time?

I would imagine that's fine but I would also imagine the silicone "meets" the other side at the gap between the panels in the tank, so I don't know if that's bad (dry and wet silicone).

In the case of the filter sock tray, the where glass meets glass (baffle glued to a glass piece with a filter sock hole, then glued to another baffle) there will be NO gap. Do I take the same approach though?

Absolutely. I just installed the Fiji cube baffle system in a 40 breeder this week.

My process was.

Layout and marking the Outside of the tank glass with a sharpie top and bottom where I wanted the baffles.

Painters tape 1/2" off of each side that will remove after the silicone is dry.

Hot glue dabs on a speed square on one side of the baffle being worked on to hold it upright and square.

Painters tape on top to hold in place.

I had quite large gaps on the side so initial silicone application was a thick bit in all four corners for about an inch long, smoothed out with my finger.

Repeat with each baffle.

Next day: move alignment aides (speed square and tape holding the baffle in place)

Proceed to hit all seams now that the baffles are glued in place by initial dabs in the corners.

Because I taped off, I didn't care about using too much silicone. Next day when everything was dry removed blue tape, sharpie lines from the outside, razor blade for any silicone on the glass, and water test.

It is an easy process with a few manageable steps. You've got this