simplest way of connecting two tanks

[maleks.reef]

I guess my question is, is it worth the hassle or the potential consequences if something goes wrong? Might be easier just to run them as two separate tanks, considering you don't want to buy a return pump or drill either tank. What benefits are you specifically hoping to gain by connecting them?

Well by connecting them all I really need is a new light. If i run it separately then it is a different story. Plus, by connecting them I can be sure that both systems have the same parameters and that I can do a WC on 1 only instead of two.

By the looks of the replies here, it could work, the only problem is that if something goes wrong, the frag tank will flood.

 

[maleks.reef]

I was wanting to do something like this too. Best I could come up with was 2 pumps, 2 float switches

Do you have any pics?

 

[Dburr1014]

There is a lot of risk in having two overflows on one tank that goes in multiple directions. It is theoretically possible to balance the system but a lot can go wrong.

Best to just point you to this thread.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/c...the-same-horizontal-level-as-the-sump.884667/

There were some options that we discussed there. There are probably many threads on this here in R2R. A lot of us have thought about it. I suspect many have tried. RickVan did have some good ideas in that thread.

They would most definatly have to be in series not tandem. Only 1 return pump and the biggest tank at the end incase of power outage to catch all the water.

 

[Dburr1014]

Do you have any pics?

What brainanthoney is saying is really a bad idea and a flood waiting to happen. If one float sticks /goes bad, flood. And without floats, two pumps would never be timed for same amount of water.

 

[Dburr1014]

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DXrIk0owaeus&ved=2ahUKEwi79c-K6ZX2AhW0jYkEHVhWBBgQjjh6BAgJEAI&usg=AOvVaw04HsHRWrtVteRoeJQlHLRy

One example on you tube and plenty more to choose from.

 

[Greg Gdowski]

Can you take a picture of the sump behind the all in one? Maybe it could be piped into there without the tank having to be above the level of the display portion of the tank.

 

[Greg Gdowski]

They would most definatly have to be in series not tandem. Only 1 return pump and the biggest tank at the end incase of power outage to catch all the water.

That is what is said, but in a more elegant way! They don't have to be in series. In the other thread I showed, I have two systems linked together, but the 2nd pump is also in the sump and it pumps to the other tank which also drains back into the sump. So those --- are in parallel, not in series.

 

[Chrisv.]

Good suggestion but these are very expensive. I'm trying to do this on a budget so that the only big purchase is a second light.

Almost all scenarios other than this will result in an even more costly floor repair.

 

[Chrisv.]

Just drain the AIO part and connect a sump. Then your DT and frag tank share that sump. So your DT drains into your AIO part... which drains into a sump and returns back to the DT. The frag tank shares the sump with its own overflow box. No flood risk... its just same as any standard sump. Your AIO part is just acting as a giant overflow box.

This is the best option.

 

[Dom]

Many complicated solutions have been presented here. If you have a sump running on the existing tank, you can plumb your frag tank right into that.

Split your return so that one goes to the current tank and the other goes to the frag and have your drain line go to the sump where your existing drain line goes.

Cheap and easy to do. You're looking at some additional PVC and a manifold to balance flow.

 

[BrianAnthony]

What brainanthoney is saying is really a bad idea and a flood waiting to happen. If one float sticks /goes bad, flood. And without floats, two pumps would never be timed for same amount of water.

Yes... That's why I didn't do it.

 

[maleks.reef]

Can you take a picture of the sump behind the all in one? Maybe it could be piped into there without the tank having to be above the level of the display portion of the tank.

 

[Greg Gdowski]

Can you point out the typical water height and wear it rises to when the pump is turned off?

 

[Greg Gdowski]

Many complicated solutions have been presented here. If you have a sump running on the existing tank, you can plumb your frag tank right into that.

Split your return so that one goes to the current tank and the other goes to the frag and have your drain line go to the sump where your existing drain line goes.

Cheap and easy to do. You're looking at some additional PVC and a manifold to balance flow.

That is why I asked for pictures. This only works if the drain from the second tank is above the water level on the sump.

 

[Greg Gdowski]

Can you point out the typical water height and wear it rises to when the pump is turned off?

Those are interesting. I can't find a lot of videos that demonstrate its operation. It looks to be a closed loop system where the output of the return pump is below the waterline. When the pump goes off, the water level should be below #1 but above #6 -- is that correct?

I confess that I see this as very difficult. I'd hate to advise you to put a hole in that all in one filter and then not have it work and then have to reverse the process. It also doesn't look like there is much margin for more water to reside in the sump area when the pumps are off.

Anyone else have any ideas?

 

[maleks.reef]

Those are interesting. I can't find a lot of videos that demonstrate its operation. It looks to be a closed loop system where the output of the return pump is below the waterline. When the pump goes off, the water level should be below #1 but above #6 -- is that correct?

I have more water in the tank than the suggested level , also i have a HOB skimmer that dumps even more water into the tank when everything is off, so the water does go over #1 actually. I would say the tank would be able to accommodate for 6-10 additional litres with everything off.

If i run a flexible tube siphon into the frag tank and then a return pump back to the DT, the main issue would be that if the siphon stops for whatever reason, the frag tank's return would empty the frag tank into the DT, however, if i keep that return pump just below the frag tank's waterline, theoretically, it should fix this issue, correct?

Same with the siphon, if i keep the tip of the flexible tubing just barely submerged and the pump stop working for whatever reason, it would not flood the frag tank.

 

[Doctorgori]

With reagent cost going up I was likewise driven to combine tanks, same brainstorming without the nerve to 1st ask here….
perhaps not applicable directly pbut my newest build (210 & 150) has two tanks and one sump, I couldn’t come up with any other way…
I may connect my 60g to the other tanks water via Apex DOS

 

[Greg Gdowski]

I have more water in the tank than the suggested level , also i have a HOB skimmer that dumps even more water into the tank when everything is off, so the water does go over #1 actually. I would say the tank would be able to accommodate for 6-10 additional litres with everything off.

If i run a flexible tube siphon into the frag tank and then a return pump back to the DT, the main issue would be that if the siphon stops for whatever reason, the frag tank's return would empty the frag tank into the DT, however, if i keep that return pump just below the frag tank's waterline, theoretically, it should fix this issue, correct?

Same with the siphon, if i keep the tip of the flexible tubing just barely submerged and the pump stop working for whatever reason, it would not flood the frag tank.

The problem is that the two systems are interconnected. The bigger problems occur when the "other" side of the system fails.

For example, what if the return pump to the main tank slows down, breaks, or goes off, where will the water go? It will drain into the frag tank until the water goes below the weir.

I don't want to discourage you from trying, but that is why most systems use gravity to deliver water to the lowest tank. I think what people would suggest is to have the frag tank below the display tank and then the sump below the frag tank so that water flows from top to bottom with one return pump. That way if the pump stops, the water stops flowing.

You can run systems in parallel as suggested above, but each "side" has to be able to accommodate all of the water that can drain downward. It is just like our lungs. If one side fails, the other side has to handle the entire load.

 

[BrianAnthony]

Guys, check this out..

PVC Overflow Fish Tank No-drill Overflow | eBay

<p>PVC Overflow Fish Tank No-drill Overflow. Not for sumps! It can take up to 15-20 gallons per hour, so if you want to run a pump with your sump system - this overflow won’t work. This is designed for drip system auto change. Condition is "New". This is a great overflow design if you don’t want...

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[Reefer Reboot]

If you are interested in making something that does not require drilling or hard plumbing the tanks together, here is a simple concept that will accomplish an interconnection.

With the tank tops at the same level, use a basic powerhead to induce (not force) flow through the left "U-tube". Leave a gap between the powerhead outlet and the "U-tube". The right "U-tube" will equalize the tank levels. With an airline, connect the low pressure venturi port of the powerhead to the high point of both "U-tubes" to remove any air to keep syphon.
This is just the basic concept.