Six-line wrasse - next best step?

[Sarcazian]

So, I picked up some new corals, a nem, and a six line wrasse and they all came today. The fish was really more of an after thought since I was already stuff stuff and I needed something to start a cycle on some rock sitting in a brute. Of course, now that my daughter sees the pretty wrasse in the QT tank that's likely not going to happen.

So, the wrasse was:

1. accumulated (no interested in pellets)
2. hand (glove) moved from the bag to a container with tank water
3. soon after moved to a 1 gallon tupperware with tank water and part A of Safety Stop ( formalin ) for close to 45 minutes. Air stone was in the water 30 minutes prior for both dips
4. wrasse was hand moved from Part A to small tupperware to rinse off and then moved to Part B (methylene blue)
5. After close to 45 minutes the wrasse was hand moved to a small tupperware and then into the 10G QT tank. This 10G QT was totally fresh build with MB7 and submersible aqua filter.
6. He pretty much spent the evening hiding, but I saw no spots during the dipping.
7. 11 PM I went to turn out the lights and saw some spots on his nose, both sides (1 each) and tail. I also noticed a bloated stomach and the pump intake appeared to have a big stringy white poop (big) attached to it. I did not grab a photo.
8. He did take some of the frozen food I dropped in the tank and is swimming well considering the internal pump is about 256GPH and pushing a lot of flow.

So, at this point, I wanted to get some feedback on how best to proceed next. I have the following on hand that sticks out as potential next steps: API Super Ick Cure (3.6mg Malachite Green and 60mg Nitrofurazone per packet), Rally Pro, and Chloroquine that I bought in 2012. The last option is likely not viable.

Thanks in advance!

p.s. The video is what I used to capture the individual images.

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Whyd you dip your fish?

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

Most people dip corals and qt fish. Meaning hold them in a low or high salt tank or copper tank and wait a cpl weeks to transfer to main display. This time does all what your dip does but dosent stress the fish. The fish is allowed time to acclimate. Tail spot is normal markings of the fish. I see the bloated belly. Give time. Dont over feed and blast with light.
U got this. Hope he pulls through
D

 

[Sarcazian]

Whyd you dip your fish?

Thank you. So, it sounds like I needed to pick up some copper power... Amazon now reports it will be here by Friday.

This maybe not be the best answer, but because it came from a retailer that did not answer my questions on if they had a known ich issue in their tanks and it was not sold as QT'ed. I had Safety Stop on hand and others have reported success with it. Of course, many of them seem to be using it and then dumping the fish in their DT.

I am not a fan of low salinity tanks and Jay's research seems to show other potential issues with Uronema (I think) taking over in low salinity (brackish) environments. Anyway, I have tried that in the past and the reported needs to reset the counter if the values go high is not worth the effort imho.

By the way, it looks like CP would have never been an option for the six-line as per the chart I just found @ Fish and Treatment Guidelines (with chart) | REEF2REEF Saltwater and Reef Aquarium Forum

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

I dont qt or copper treat my fish. They simply go into my display. I try to buy my fish in person though. I think most just place the fish in their displays.

This is a good practice though and i like that you are doing this.
I think most fish disease have a life span. Like ich and it will eventually just fall off and die off in qt over time.
Why i recommend the copper or high low salt lvl.
Ive also read things about the temp and the lower temps being safer from disease although im unsure on that too. Lol
D

 

[monkeyCmonkeyDo]

If the supplier didnt want to confidently say they didnt have ich than your doing the right thing.

 

[Sarcazian]

So, I am posting an update in case this helps anyone in the future. Of course, I will need to follow-up on this thread in a few days after continued monitoring.

I am wondering if the IO reef crystal dust was the cause of the white dots. The tank floor still has a small pile of vitamin/salt mix since I had a cup of salt sitting out for a couple of hours while making water. It got a little clumpy from the moisture in my office and frankly RC is not the cleanest salt to begin with.

The salt mixing bin I used was also a bit large for the 600gph mixing pump I used to make the 20G of SW.

Unless I hear otherwise, later tonight I am going to start the 3 day dose of Rally Pro for bacterial infections and then start the copper over the weekend.