Size of QT tanks

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I'm going to set up two QT tanks, one for corals / inverts and one for fish. What size tanks should I use? Would 5g be large enough or should I go with 10g? They would be set up semi-permanently as it will take quite some time to slowly fill my new DT. What filtration and lighting would be recommended?

Thoughts?
 
What sort of fish and inverst are you putting through QT? That is the dependent factor in choosing a QT tank :)
 
Lighting is optional unless you are QT'ing corals, in which case you want to use a similar light as the one on your main display tank.

Filtration can be as simple as a sponge filter with regular water changes or you can get a common HOB filter. Some folks even set up sumped quarantine systems.
 
No specifics yet but all inhabitants will be on the small side. I'd rather have several small fish / inverts than a few large ones. Nothing against bigger fish, I just sort of want more of the schooling effect.
 
I'm going to set up two QT tanks, one for corals / inverts and one for fish. What size tanks should I use? Would 5g be large enough or should I go with 10g? They would be set up semi-permanently as it will take quite some time to slowly fill my new DT. What filtration and lighting would be recommended?

Thoughts?
The size of your fish QT is determined by the number and size of the fish you want to get into your DT. I think a 10g tank is perfect for a fish QT as long as you are going with smaller fish and/or juvenile larger fish. If you plan on getting in fish that are 6"+ long you should go with a 40B or larger imo. For my 10g QT I use an HOB filter rated for 30g. Add a heater and you are pretty much good to go. You don't even need a light. For my 10g I use the cheap plastic cover with a light.

For my Coral/Invert QT I used a 20g with a higher quality light and the same size HOB filter. They don't have as much waste to process as fish and I wanted to the extra room and height for better lighting options. I also recommend growing macro algae in a Coral/Invert QT. Add a heater and small power head and it is easy enough to set up.
 
Lighting is optional unless you are QT'ing corals, in which case you want to use a similar light as the one on your main display tank.

Filtration can be as simple as a sponge filter with regular water changes or you can get a common HOB filter. Some folks even set up sumped quarantine systems.

Yes, corals will go through the quarantine process. Forgot to mention those. Duh.
 
Would 5g be large enough or should I go with 10g?

Unless you're stocking a micro-tank with things VERY SMALL like neon gobies, those are both too small.

40 Breeder is the biggest tank you can get on a $1/gallon sale, so that's always what I suggest starting with. If you can't fit a 36" tank, then get the biggest you can fit into your space. It doesn't have to be permanent – sell it when you're done if space is an issue. 15 gallon is the absolute smallest tank I'd consider for anything remotely like "normal fish size"....and it's still very small.

Also, avoid the typical "prison style" QT. It does not have to be fancy at all, but outfit the tank like they were going to be living in it forever. Otherwise you'll be generating extra unnecessary stress while they're in QT. Use a chunk of seasoned live rock. Use some fake plants. Etc. Make it naturalistic. And make it stable. If you're hawking your ammonia monitor, more than likely you know you have something to worry about and rushed things....that's not going to be very stable. And if you want to get a tip on why all this is important, read this: How behaviorally complex are marine fish?

Last, unless you're an expert, avoid throwing a bunch of fish in there at once. Not good for the fish, the QT and not good for the display tank when they make it there. Keep your additions limited....I'd start with a little CUC. If you think you can handle a coral with your level of expertise I'd honestly suggest a coral as next. With at least 2-4 weeks of space in between all of these additions, next I'd consider adding 1-2 fish. Then you can keep adding slowly like that (alternate fish and coral to keep their populations somewhat balanced) without throwing off the system anywhere until you've reached your stocking goals. Disease and algae will both be limited this way vs throwing a lot of fish in at once.

 
With fish, you do not need that much. I think 5 gallons is a bit small. A simple HOB filter with a sponge and a heater should be enough.

Quarantining corals is more complex. Assuming the quarantine is for hard corals, you want a similar light source and flow as your display tank. So right there you are talking $. Assuming you have space, you might as well go with a larger tank.

In my QT tanks, I use the discard water from my water changes. Everything is going into the display, they might as well get exposed to the water.
 
Unless you're stocking a micro-tank with things VERY SMALL like neon gobies, those are both too small.

40 Breeder is the biggest tank you can get on a $1/gallon sale, so that's always what I suggest starting with. If you can't fit a 36" tank, then get the biggest you can fit into your space. It doesn't have to be permanent – sell it when you're done if space is an issue. 15 gallon is the absolute smallest tank I'd consider for anything remotely like "normal fish size"....and it's still very small.

Also, avoid the typical "prison style" QT. It does not have to be fancy at all, but outfit the tank like they were going to be living in it forever. Otherwise you'll be generating extra unnecessary stress while they're in QT. Use a chunk of seasoned live rock. Use some fake plants. Etc. Make it naturalistic. And make it stable. If you're hawking your ammonia monitor, more than likely you know you have something to worry about and rushed things....that's not going to be very stable. And if you want to get a tip on why all this is important, read this: How behaviorally complex are marine fish?

Last, unless you're an expert, avoid throwing a bunch of fish in there at once. Not good for the fish, the QT and not good for the display tank when they make it there. Keep your additions limited....I'd start with a little CUC. If you think you can handle a coral with your level of expertise I'd honestly suggest a coral as next. With at least 2-4 weeks of space in between all of these additions, next I'd consider adding 1-2 fish. Then you can keep adding slowly like that (alternate fish and coral to keep their populations somewhat balanced) without throwing off the system anywhere until you've reached your stocking goals. Disease and algae will both be limited this way vs throwing a lot of fish in at once.

This is an excellent point and worth bringing up.

If you are looking at doing 100% ich and velvet eradication then smaller tanks are necessary. There is no doubt that you will lose fish in the QT process, especially as you learn from mistakes, if you go this route. It is the route I have chosen to go but it is not the only way. I won't even claim it is the best way. It is what I thought was best for me when I first got into the hobby.

If you are looking to do observation only and move to a smaller hospital tank if needed, then you will want a more naturally set up QT system. You will cut down on losses on the front end going this route. Success with this method requires more system stability. Since Ich/Velvet eradication isn't going to be a goal with this method, you can also use the same system for both coral and fish. The purpose at this point would be to give the fish time to de-stress after shipping and handling prior to being introduced to its tank mates. I highly recommend reading as many of @Paul B or @atoll posts as possible. Going this route can be very successful and may have more long term advantages.

There are plenty of people here who can help with whichever direction you would like to go. The important thing is for you to understand the pro's and con's of each method and picking the one you feel will be best for your fish based on how well you know yourself.
 
With fish, you do not need that much. I think 5 gallons is a bit small. A simple HOB filter with a sponge and a heater should be enough.

Quarantining corals is more complex. Assuming the quarantine is for hard corals, you want a similar light source and flow as your display tank. So right there you are talking $. Assuming you have space, you might as well go with a larger tank.

In my QT tanks, I use the discard water from my water changes. Everything is going into the display, they might as well get exposed to the water.
I am building a 14 gal nano. I’ve heard of reefers using their DT water to WC their coral qt. Unfortunately, I won’t be doing big water changes on a nano just for the sake of the qt.

i dont plan on adding big batches of coral to my DT. Since we are on the topic, would it make sense to rely on fresh SW mix to maintain let’s say a 5 gal tank for coral and inverts, and adding a small % of DT water for nutrient purposes ?
 
Currently I am using a 5.5 gallon Aqueon glass tank with a 50 watt heater, AC-50 HOB and a Kessil A80 Tuna Blue for my Corals. I really aint into fish so fish I buy are few and far between and really small so I am using the same set up. I am considering upgrading to a 10 gallon tank in the future...
 
Currently I am using a 5.5 gallon Aqueon glass tank with a 50 watt heater, AC-50 HOB and a Kessil A80 Tuna Blue for my Corals. I really aint into fish so fish I buy are few and far between and really small so I am using the same set up. I am considering upgrading to a 10 gallon tank in the future...
Awesome. I’m thinking of doing something similar, since I only have a 14g DT.

i have the same approach with fish. With a nano this small, I’m really only able to add a pair of clowns, which to me is perfect.

clowns really are something special
 
large fish have schooling effect my powder blue / purple tang / goldflake angel / midas blenny always swim together
 

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