Skipped cycle?
- Thread starter ahiggins
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Duke4Life
Just a crazy eel guy, LMAS
That's what my thought was, until I went and looked at a few cuc packages various vendors sell. Was told I wanted 1 crab per 1-2 gallons of water. I've got about 50 now and plan on adding more once my quarantine opens up (after my 1st additions which were crabs and snails I've quarantined everything wet since).
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ahiggins
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oh wow.
How do you have your quarantine set up? My tank is a 25 gal cube but I have an extra 20 gallon that has a HOB filter and LED lights. Would that be ok to use? I could toss in some live rock and sand and call it a QT lol
How do you have your quarantine set up? My tank is a 25 gal cube but I have an extra 20 gallon that has a HOB filter and LED lights. Would that be ok to use? I could toss in some live rock and sand and call it a QT lol
fab
Active Member
Which question?
Both what?
I could not track your discussion here.
If you are referring to Quarantining, then there are no "cons."
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ahiggins
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Pros and cons for quarantining.
I have decided to quarantine though. I have asked, I have a 20 gallon with a HOB filter and LED lighting. Ill toss in some live rock too. What do I need other than that to make sure its not stressing them?
fab
Active Member
No rock, no sand, no light.
Sand and rock will become habitat for unwanted disease carrying life if the fish do present disease or parasite problems
Put a couple PBC pipe sections and elbows in the QT to provide hiding places. Low light, if any. Ambient light will do.
You can add light on the last week of quarantine if you want to so the fish will not be shocked when they go in the display tank with lighting.
You must do a good job in maintaining stable temperature and salinity for these guys and keeping the water quality under control with frequent "tiny" saltwater changes and daily freshwater top off. Observe them daily.
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fab
Active Member
I also recommend that you take two pictures of each fish in QT daily (roughly), one frontal and one side shot for more detailed observation, looking for early signs of breakouts. If you need a diagnostic consult then you will have a visual history to help. You can't take "Before" shots after you become suspicious of a problem.
fab
Active Member
Without sand and rock the only surfaces you will have for cycling issues will be the glass, the PVC bits and your filter material.
If you have cycled a tank already then put your never-before-used QT filter material somewhere in your cycled tank or your sump until you get your fish. Then move the material into your QT just before you transfer the fish into the QT. That will prepopulate your filter material with some "good" bacteria. You could also use water from that previously cycled tank to
1. add to or even supply all of the initial fill of the QT.
2. supply the new saltwater for your QT water changes. That will provide a step toward acclimation in addition to quarantining, per se.
If you have cycled a tank already then put your never-before-used QT filter material somewhere in your cycled tank or your sump until you get your fish. Then move the material into your QT just before you transfer the fish into the QT. That will prepopulate your filter material with some "good" bacteria. You could also use water from that previously cycled tank to
1. add to or even supply all of the initial fill of the QT.
2. supply the new saltwater for your QT water changes. That will provide a step toward acclimation in addition to quarantining, per se.
fab
Active Member
Of course, if you have any parasite or disease in your DT then don't use it to prepare your QT filter material or supply your QT water. And do not move your QT'd fish into a "sick" DT. Rather keep them where they are in your first QT and go get another tank to become your hospital tank (HT). Move all affected fish from DT to HT and get them unsick.
Duke4Life
Just a crazy eel guy, LMAS
Yes I do. I have a 20g hob filter, basic light (not fancy but will be upgrading soon for coral), a powerhead (I use a sponge that I seed in my sump attached 2 end of intake, you can always seed the tank with 1 of the many products on the market), some pvc and a piece of live rock (I have a 10g if copper were to be needed to treat). Also an ammonia alert badge would be handy.
I typically research what diseases are common for what I am looking at and plan my quarantine treatment around. If I get a tang I'll ttm starting day 1, wrasses I observe and Prazipro, etc.
Duke4Life
Just a crazy eel guy, LMAS
My first group of CUC I didn't qt because it was them, my eel, and a cleaner shrimp. For corals I'm just adding a better light, but they will be dipped in something first (unsure of what 1 of many I'll use). And yes it's primarily a fish and invert qt at the moment but I wouldn't hesitate to add coral if my light was better. I had this setup and cycled before my DT due to all the disease threads I saw while finalizing what eel this would be centered around.Wow. That was a lot of info lol but I appreciate all of itSo that is fish QT
What about corals-any different? Other than a light for them.
And do I need to QT the CUC?
Oscaror
Back In It
That method is cruel. Why would someone put a fish into a developing system to cycle it? Think of the fish, remember ammonia is as toxic to them as chlorine.
fishnerd1
Community Member
I agree, cruel. Just add 1-2 ml of ammonia and check your cycle every 3-5 days, you should see measurable ammonia and nitrates. This will confirm the cycle and increase your bacteria population at the same time. After nitrites are at zero you'll be ready for cuc. In parallel start your fish qt as this should be for at least 4-6 weeks providing you come through it clean. Slow is the recipe for success, fast almost always has concequences.
