Snails - Can They Die from Too Much Algae (Overdose)?

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

I have a Huge Hair Algae Problem in one of my Tanks (55 Gallon Tank).

I have tried Everything and Nothing works.

Somebody recommended Snails since I never had any before (Always had Hermit Crabs).

So I bought 70 Tiger Trochus Snails for my 55 Gallon and They "Plowed" through the Hair Algae. Some of it was 6 to 8 Inches Long!

I was Amazed.

But after a Week they started Dying (After 2 Weeks they were Dropping like Flies).

From the original 70 I counted 11 Left (Probably a couple more I didn't see behind the Rock).

Now the Algae is almost as bad as it ever was (I was certain they would eat it all but once they started Dying the Hair Algae started coming back).

Somebody told me that Snails can Die from Too Much Algae (Algae Overdose if you will).

Is this True?

steelheader.262 · Sep 7, 2015

Im not sure about the algae overdose but id say most of the time it crabs killing them off.

TheEngineer · Sep 7, 2015

The algae is a sign of high nutrients. Have you tested your water? I've never heard of snails dieing from eating.

Dtackett · Sep 7, 2015

no. theyre dying from 1 of 2 things: crabs killing them for their shells, or starvation. 70 snails require a lot of food. that's why I hate seeing the 1 cuc member per gallon rule. if you don't feed it, it will die.

Tahoe61 · Sep 7, 2015

Did you raise your mag level to fight the algae? Check the snails for tiny snails that resemble grains of rice/Pyramids. What is the temp on your tank?

brandon429 · Sep 7, 2015

Ps

have not tried everything. Gha is easy to make gone.

If gha is in a tank, its because its wanted there, not that peroxide couldn't wipe it clean in a few days. Hard info to consider, but too many post pics showing it to discount. Usually the keeper will opt for the algae and not for the peroxide...feels bad to break rules to be algae free. Feels better for some to just have the algae since rules say only po4 controls w kill it in X amount of time, possibly.

An interesting trend in reefing is to purposely let algae take over a tank. We usually get people when their tanks and they are at wits end with it, consider week #1 instead of week 53 for direct action I always say

Gha has an amazing sustain time after direct treatment before it comes back. This interim is when to deploy po4 bandaids as well

The algae itself isn't lethal to snails its likely the tank conditions in flux that did it. Orp, pH, params and o2 levels primarily. Oxygen staving in the morning occurs in plant heavy biomes especially when we add in organic waste as well.

Some tanks get gha with perfect params, no flux, and no nutrient issues. In that case sheer manual targeting of the algae is both what kills and sustains it.

Are you using gfo

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

steelheader.262 said:
Im not sure about the algae overdose but id say most of the time it crabs killing them off.

I don't have any Crabs anymore.

I got rid of all of them so they would not eat the Snails.

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

icecool2 said:
The algae is a sign of high nutrients. Have you tested your water? I've never heard of snails dieing from eating.

Phosphate and Nitrate are Zero.

All other Parameters are Perfect.

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

Dtackett said:
no. theyre dying from 1 of 2 things: crabs killing them for their shells, or starvation. 70 snails require a lot of food. that's why I hate seeing the 1 cuc member per gallon rule. if you don't feed it, it will die.

I have no Crabs and like 10 Pounds of Algae.

Believe me they are not Starving.

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

Tahoe61 said:
Did you raise your mag level to fight the algae? Check the snails for tiny snails that resemble grains of rice/Pyramids. What is the temp on your tank?

Magnesium is 1395

I do not see any Tiny Snails like you mentioned.

Tank is 78 Degrees.

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

brandon429 said:
Ps

have not tried everything. Gha is easy to make gone.

If gha is in a tank, its because its wanted there, not that peroxide couldn't wipe it clean in a few days. Hard info to consider, but too many post pics showing it to discount. Usually the keeper will opt for the algae and not for the peroxide...feels bad to break rules to be algae free. Feels better for some to just have the algae since rules say only po4 controls w kill it in X amount of time, possibly.

An interesting trend in reefing is to purposely let algae take over a tank. We usually get people when their tanks and they are at wits end with it, consider week #1 instead of week 53 for direct action I always say

Gha has an amazing sustain time after direct treatment before it comes back. This interim is when to deploy po4 bandaids as well

The algae itself isn't lethal to snails its likely the tank conditions in flux that did it. Orp, pH, params and o2 levels primarily. Oxygen staving in the morning occurs in plant heavy biomes especially when we add in organic waste as well.

Some tanks get gha with perfect params, no flux, and no nutrient issues. In that case sheer manual targeting of the algae is both what kills and sustains it.

Are you using gfo

I was using GFO.

Now I am using Liquid Phosphate Remover (Phosphate-E from Brightwell Aquatics).

brandon429 · Sep 7, 2015

your tank may be another example of nutrient independent algae growth. These need to be reviewed as well as the bottom levels of given nutrients that affect a change for the better.
An already nutrient controlled tank means it won't be hard to fend off as soon as action is chosen imo. Many species of algae can resource nutrients in the cleanest of tanks, but its true keeping nutrients low helps in slowing grow back to something grazers could maintain

Coral bleaching is on the spectrum of po4 only algae controls.

a key tactic is making the tank free of algae biomass, before you set conditions that don't favor algae. For example, if your tank had zero algae in it within a week, that means the nutrient controls have less to impact in order to seem like they work.

Why not try an ats system those are supposed to clear gha tanks. It adds weeks to an otherwise 48 hr turnaround but its a very safe option to try

saltyphish · Sep 7, 2015

that Reef Guy said:
Phosphate and Nitrate are Zero.

All other Parameters are Perfect.

They read zero because the algae is consuming it out of the water.

that Reef Guy · Sep 7, 2015

brandon429 said:
your tank may be another example of nutrient independent algae growth. These need to be reviewed as well as the bottom levels of given nutrients that affect a change for the better.
An already nutrient controlled tank means it won't be hard to fend off as soon as action is chosen imo. Many species of algae can resource nutrients in the cleanest of tanks, but its true keeping nutrients low helps in slowing grow back to something grazers could maintain

Coral bleaching is on the spectrum of po4 only algae controls.

a key tactic is making the tank free of algae biomass, before you set conditions that don't favor algae. For example, if your tank had zero algae in it within a week, that means the nutrient controls have less to impact in order to seem like they work.

Why not try an ats system those are supposed to clear gha tanks. It adds weeks to an otherwise 48 hr turnaround but its a very safe option to try

What is an ats System?

I have never heard of that.

ReefHeretic · Sep 7, 2015

With all that algae, you will probably read zero nitrates. Since your phosphate kit only reads ortho, thy will be zero as well. Your tank is likely a giant ATS (algal turf scrubber) right now.

Q1: are you using RO water, and how often are water changes?

Q2: Any source of higher-order nutrients, ie ammonia?

If something is causing your snails to die, and it's not crabs, I would be wary to suggest a lettuce nudi to the tank. That's a whole new issue if it dies.

that Reef Guy · Sep 8, 2015

Jason Coleman said:
With all that algae, you will probably read zero nitrates. Since your phosphate kit only reads ortho, thy will be zero as well. Your tank is likely a giant ATS (algal turf scrubber) right now.

Q1: are you using RO water, and how often are water changes?

Q2: Any source of higher-order nutrients, ie ammonia?

If something is causing your snails to die, and it's not crabs, I would be wary to suggest a lettuce nudi to the tank. That's a whole new issue if it dies.

1. Yes, I am using RO. Water Changes vary anywhere from once a week to once a month.
2. Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate are always Zero.

What is wrong with a Lettuce Nudi?

Algae Turf Scrubbers get Rid of Algae so how Exactly is my Tank an Algae Turf Scrubber? I am confused by that statement.

ReefHeretic · Sep 8, 2015

If a nudibranch dies in your tank, it's pretty much a toxic hand grenade. If the snails keep dying, the nudi may, as well.

Turf scrubbers are basically screens covered with algae. It used its own algae to reduce nitrate and phosphate (similar to a refugium). Grow it somewhere outside the tank, to keep the inside clean. Yours is currently IN the tank.

that Reef Guy · Sep 8, 2015

Jason Coleman said:
If a nudibranch dies in your tank, it's pretty much a toxic hand grenade. If the snails keep dying, the nudi may, as well.

Turf scrubbers are basically screens covered with algae. It used its own algae to reduce nitrate and phosphate (similar to a refugium). Grow it somewhere outside the tank, to keep the inside clean. Yours is currently IN the tank.

Are you sure you are not referring to a Sea Hare not Lettuce Nudi's?

I have never heard of Lettuce Nudi's being Toxic.

ReefHeretic · Sep 9, 2015

TBH, I've yet to see a member of the cephalaspidean opisthobranchs that doesn't make a mess when they die. Sea hares though are better for cyano.

AlexG · Sep 9, 2015

When the snails die are they rotting in the shell or are you just finding empty shells or empty shells with a slime around them? The RO water you are using where is it coming from? What is the TDS reading of the RO water you are using? What type of rock and sand is in this tank? If there is sand how deep is it? What types of filtration are in place? How old is this tank?