Some 40 Gallon Breeder suggestions needed.
- Thread starter Gareth elliott
- Start date
- Tagged users None
Crabs McJones
I'm so shi-nay
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Article Contributor
Moderator Emeritus
Hospitality Award
Reef Tank 365 Boss
Wisco Reefers
My Tank Thread
40B Knasty
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Feb 17, 2017
- Messages
- 1,928
- Reaction score
- 1,615
- Location
- Massachusetts
- What state or country do you live in
- Massachusetts
Here "was" my 40B with Jebao SW-4. All HOB so I won't mention the other equipment. 40lbs of salt&pepper aragonite. 42lbs of live rock. Fish Randall's prawn goby(was a horrible tankmate), last bar gray clown & Swissguard basslet(best friend), grammica lined dartfish, yellow & purple wrasse(is okay for room, but looking back a flasher, carpenter, mckosker would all have been a better fit), and spotted mandarin.
You could always do like 3 tail spot blennies. An anthias breed that doesn't get to big and have a little group of them(need to be fed a few times throughout the day).
You could always do like 3 tail spot blennies. An anthias breed that doesn't get to big and have a little group of them(need to be fed a few times throughout the day).
TaylorPilot
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,455
- Reaction score
- 1,267
I just plumbed a 40B using a flow through style overflow. I did it with one of ours, but the plumbing should be basically the same for any of them using a bean animal drain. A 40B with a 20L as a sump is a great combination.
TaylorPilot
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,455
- Reaction score
- 1,267
Crabs McJones
I'm so shi-nay
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Article Contributor
Moderator Emeritus
Hospitality Award
Reef Tank 365 Boss
Wisco Reefers
My Tank Thread
Do you notice a difference between having the gate valve towards the end of your drain as opposed to being right after the overflow?
TaylorPilot
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,455
- Reaction score
- 1,267
On the one inch plumbing with a decent amount of flow, no. But on lower flow systems where you have the valve heavily restricting, yes.
When these systems were first developed, all three lines were at the same height, and the only difference was one pipe turned down, and the other turned up. So you may only have 1" of water over the drain. They had problems getting enough pressure to get the water over the 90 and pushing all the air out. That is why you sometimes see people drilling holes in the top of the siphon line to try to let the air escape. This is a band-aid for a poorly designed system. If done right these things really are bullet proof. If you look at it from the stand point of the pipe being in two sections, the unrestricted flow, and then after the valve where it is restricted, the water can rush much faster as start up past that first U until it hits the valve and slows down. The further away from the top of the drain the valve was, the longer the water could quickly rush down the line, pushing out all the air out. If the valve is right at the top, the restriction is at the top, and below it is just air and slow flowing water. It was a big deal in the beginning when the Bean Animal was first developed because of how it was implemented. However, today it is somewhat less important because of how these boxes are designed with several inches of water above the siphon line. All things considered though, if I had a choice, I would run it as close to the bottom as possible. Especially if running lower levels of flow through the pipe, or if I had longer runs (either horizontally or vertically).
Long story short, putting the valve at the end will always purge the air and start the siphon faster than putting it right after the bulkhead. In some extreme cases of the flow being to slow for the diameter pipe you are running, it can stop it from working right period.
I did this video today. I have another coming out more specific to our system, but I will probably only post that in my sponsor section.
When these systems were first developed, all three lines were at the same height, and the only difference was one pipe turned down, and the other turned up. So you may only have 1" of water over the drain. They had problems getting enough pressure to get the water over the 90 and pushing all the air out. That is why you sometimes see people drilling holes in the top of the siphon line to try to let the air escape. This is a band-aid for a poorly designed system. If done right these things really are bullet proof. If you look at it from the stand point of the pipe being in two sections, the unrestricted flow, and then after the valve where it is restricted, the water can rush much faster as start up past that first U until it hits the valve and slows down. The further away from the top of the drain the valve was, the longer the water could quickly rush down the line, pushing out all the air out. If the valve is right at the top, the restriction is at the top, and below it is just air and slow flowing water. It was a big deal in the beginning when the Bean Animal was first developed because of how it was implemented. However, today it is somewhat less important because of how these boxes are designed with several inches of water above the siphon line. All things considered though, if I had a choice, I would run it as close to the bottom as possible. Especially if running lower levels of flow through the pipe, or if I had longer runs (either horizontally or vertically).
Long story short, putting the valve at the end will always purge the air and start the siphon faster than putting it right after the bulkhead. In some extreme cases of the flow being to slow for the diameter pipe you are running, it can stop it from working right period.
I did this video today. I have another coming out more specific to our system, but I will probably only post that in my sponsor section.
TaylorPilot
Valuable Member
- Joined
- Aug 8, 2015
- Messages
- 1,455
- Reaction score
- 1,267
You'll notice during the segments showing it starting up, the emergency line doesn't even get wet, and the siphon has almost finished purging before the water even hits the open channel. You don't have to drill any air release holes, or any other types of band aids to get it to start if it is setup right.
Finally, I see several people installing an additional gate valve on the open channel, to try and raise it up even higher, so that it runs right at the top of the box in order to quiet the overflow down when the water runs in the internal box. When picking out one of these systems, make sure you get one that has the rear box mounted as high as the front box. If they are mounted high, you can run the water level right at the bottom of the weir (teeth) and still have a very safe margin of space inside the box. It just makes it so much easier to set up safely.
Finally, I see several people installing an additional gate valve on the open channel, to try and raise it up even higher, so that it runs right at the top of the box in order to quiet the overflow down when the water runs in the internal box. When picking out one of these systems, make sure you get one that has the rear box mounted as high as the front box. If they are mounted high, you can run the water level right at the bottom of the weir (teeth) and still have a very safe margin of space inside the box. It just makes it so much easier to set up safely.
Crabs McJones
I'm so shi-nay
Excellence Award
Reef Tank 365
Article Contributor
Moderator Emeritus
Hospitality Award
Reef Tank 365 Boss
Wisco Reefers
My Tank Thread
Soooooo excited. Take lots of pictures. This is going to negate if I purchase this stand or not
OP
OP
Assembly started.
Like all stands of this nature.
Heavy as heck.
And annoying combination of screws, dowels and whatever the part that grabs a screw head when turned is called.
Akin to putting together ikea.
Inside is a strange pink/purple color? Sure when its put together will not be that bad. Its not the same paint as the outside though. Outside is a high gloss treatment that seems water resistant. Inside is painted but not the same way.
OP
OP
Shelf is adjustable and optional.
Inside cabinet dimensions
34.4” long
16.75” deep
23” deep
Total stand just fits the 40b on top with no ledge.
30” tall.
Size reference. 15g long inside the cabinet.
iTzJu
Well-Known Member
looks clean! hows the bottom portion of the stand? solid that it can support a sump?
OP
OP
Bottom is solid. I might put a 2 4x4s (one across the front one across the back) underneath just in case. I have them from when i did my back fence so why not.
OP
OP
I should have this wet by next week. Ill let you know how feel once its supporting more than an empty tank.
Going to buy another 20g as sump. Current 20g will be qt. Will make switching one to the other easier that way.
Going to buy another 20g as sump. Current 20g will be qt. Will make switching one to the other easier that way.
gilman
Active Member
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2013
- Messages
- 448
- Reaction score
- 313
- Location
- CT
- What state or country do you live in
- Connecticut
When you drill for the eshopps overflow , set the template to account for the trim on the tank . I Set it at the 1” mark down from the trim on the outside of the tank and drilled my hole . The internal overflow was right at the trim height being a 1/8” to high not sitting on the glass flush so I had to cut out some of the trim . This is how it looks now .
