Some electrical help

[Triggreef]

Also I'm unsure if the breaker on the circuit I use for my tank is gfci/afci but I plan to run a specific circuit for my tank only and already have the breaker I just haven't got to it. Right now my tank is on the same one with tv living room etc.

 

[twilliard]

OK so now we know there is leakage to ground. Time to isolate the issue. Install the yellow wire back in place.
Unmount both ballasts from the case. Take something like cardboard or paper underneath the ballasts so they don't touch the case.
Now plug it back in. If it's one of the ballasts leaking it will not trip.
If it does trip with them isolated it's in the wiring to the lamp holders.

Get back to me!

 

[Triggreef]

I see. Ok I'll try that hopefully I get a few minutes at someone tonight. Thanks

 

[michaelrc51]

Well, I have something to add. It's a bit of a long shot but check the ground lead across the other conductors. It's possible you have a bad cable or plug and when it is on and heats up the issue becomes worse. It's a long shot but I have seen it first hand.
You can simply disconnect the leads and check for continuity between them.
Or you can just go cut an end off of an extension cord and use it or buy a new one at HD for $3.
Of course that might not be the problem but it could be.

 

[Triggreef]

Well, I have something to add. It's a bit of a long shot but check the ground lead across the other conductors. It's possible you have a bad cable or plug and when it is on and heats up the issue becomes worse. It's a long shot but I have seen it first hand.
You can simply disconnect the leads and check for continuity between them.
Or you can just go cut an end off of an extension cord and use it or buy a new one at HD for $3.
Of course that might not be the problem but it could be.

I'm not sure I understand what your saying here.

 

[twilliard]

I'm not sure I understand what your saying here.

No worries we have isolated that potential issue

 

[Triggreef]

OK so now we know there is leakage to ground. Time to isolate the issue. Install the yellow wire back in place.
Unmount both ballasts from the case. Take something like cardboard or paper underneath the ballasts so they don't touch the case.
Now plug it back in. If it's one of the ballasts leaking it will not trip.
If it does trip with them isolated it's in the wiring to the lamp holders.

Get back to me!

So I connected the ground again, and with cardboard around each ballast so far so good. I'm at about 8 minutes on with no issue.

 

[twilliard]

It's one of the ballasts. The next step would be to pull the cardboard on 1 of those ballasts and reattach it to the case.
What we are doing here is finding which ballast is leaking.

 

[Triggreef]

Why wouldn't they have placed a rubber sheet under each ballast if they shouldn't be touching the ground. That makes no sense to me. To save an extra 10 cents.

 

[Triggreef]

Let's assume both ballast leak. Both had kind of markings on back like electricity is flowing through paint.

 

[Triggreef]

It's one of the ballasts. The next step would be to pull the cardboard on 1 of those ballasts and reattach it to the case.
What we are doing here is finding which ballast is leaking.

What the step after that?

 

[michaelrc51]

I'm not sure I understand what your saying here.

What I was getting at is your problem could be the cable or the plug end.
Since your test worked when you didn't have the ground wired in and it did work that pretty much eliminates that theory. There still could be an issue there but it's not likely.
Basically, one of your devices has a ground fault which is causing heat to build and then causing the breaker to trip.

Those ballasts are grounded and shouldn't have power (+) flowing through them, if they do you need new ballasts.

I don't want to throw stuff out there and possibly confuse you. Follow your troubleshooting with twillard

 

[Triggreef]

What I was getting at is your problem could be the cable or the plug end.
Since your test worked when you didn't have the ground wired in and it did work that pretty much eliminates that theory. There still could be an issue there but it's not likely.
Basically, one of your devices has a ground fault which is causing heat to build and then causing the breaker to trip.

Those ballasts are grounded and shouldn't have power (+) flowing through them, if they do you need new ballasts.

I don't want to throw stuff out there and possibly confuse you. Follow your troubleshooting with twillard

They are brand new, what's wrong with just keeping them isolated? Since it works that way?

 

[michaelrc51]

They are brand new, what's wrong with just keeping them isolated? Since it works that way?

Because one or both have an issue. If left alone the ballast will eventually fail, even if you put a piece of rubber there to isolate it. The issue is most likely with a ballast that has a ground fault.

Follow what twillard tells you.

 

[Triggreef]

Because one or both have an issue. If left alone the ballast will eventually fail, even if you put a piece of rubber there to isolate it. The issue is most likely with a ballast that has a ground fault.

Follow what twillard tells you.

Of course @twilliard is on the longest break he's taken from r2r ever! Lol

 

[twilliard]

Why wouldn't they have placed a rubber sheet under each ballast if they shouldn't be touching the ground. That makes no sense to me. To save an extra 10 cents.

Hi I'm back lol
The ballasts case has to be grounded in case of any internal ballast failure to ground.

 

[Paul B]

This happens a lot on GFCIs especially with Chinese fixtures. There is probably nothing wrong with the fixture (with Chinese standards). It is just built to have a slight leak through their electronics to ground. If you replace it with another of the same type, it may also trip the GFCI.
(Master electrician 40 years)

 

[michaelrc51]

This happens a lot on GFCIs especially with Chinese fixtures. There is probably nothing wrong with the fixture (with Chinese standards). It is just built to have a slight leak through their electronics to ground. If you replace it with another of the same type, it may also trip the GFCI.
(Master electrician 40 years)

Yeah, one reason I won't go with cheap ballasts.
It just doesn't sit well with me. Why should a ballast that is working "correctly" cause what is basically a ground fault?

 

[scardall]

Here is some pics of the lighting internals if it helps.c

According to the schematic on that ballast it is designed for 3 bulbs only. 1) One red wire to one end of (1 bulb each Only) 2) One Blue wire to opposite end of (one bulb each Only) 3) Black wire to AC plug (Side with wider blade) White wire to other Blade of AC plug. (From what I see you have a lamp wire (Blue) connect to a White wire (one side of AC) ( SHORT) Also you have one Single Red (Bulb wire) Daisy chained to all the bulb connectors.
Your fixture is wired wrong and that Ballast is for ( 3 Bulbs ONLY) Note: ( that yellow wire should be green) It wound be be hooked up to AC wire that goes to Round plug post. Good luck ( It looks like someone rewired this fixture wrong)

 

[Triggreef]

According to the schematic on that ballast it is designed for 3 bulbs only. 1) One red wire to one end of (1 bulb each Only) 2) One Blue wire to opposite end of (one bulb each Only) 3) Black wire to AC plug (Side with wider blade) White wire to other Blade of AC plug. (From what I see you have a lamp wire (Blue) connect to a White wire (one side of AC) ( SHORT) Also you have one Single Red (Bulb wire) Daisy chained to all the bulb connectors.
Your fixture is wired wrong and that Ballast is for ( 3 Bulbs ONLY) Note: ( that yellow wire should be green) It wound be be hooked up to AC wire that goes to Round plug post. Good luck ( It looks like someone rewired this fixture wrong)

There's actually 2 ballasts per fixture I just didn't photo it all. So each ballast powers 3 bulbs only.