Some leak test questions

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I'll be doing my first leak test soon on the plumbing for a 40g build. I know nothing so here are my questions

1. If the pvc joints leak, how do I fix them? Or do I have to replace them?

2. Do I use RODI water when I fill the tank in hopes that if there aren't any leaks, I can add salt and I'm good to go?

3. How long should I run the system during the test?

4. Other than adding water, turning on the pump and watching, is there anything else I should be doing?

Thanks!
 
Everyone does it their own way I'm sure.
I used RODI water and filled the display, made sure there was no leaks in any seam. i used RODI becuase i dont want tap water anywhere near the tank :)
Then i let it run into my overflow a few inches to make sure my bulkheads weren't leaking.
I then kept adding water until the over flow was full and filled my sump while watching the plumbing for any dripping or leakage from the pvc connections.
Once the sump was filled to the level i wanted, i turned on my return pump while adding water to make sure it maintained the level i wanted in the sump. ( i also marked the two different water levels on my sump, running and return off.)
I let it run for a few hours and periodically checked over each area just to be sure.

my Bulkhead on my return was leaking bad. i didnt realize the seal came off when i was installing it. I kept a bucket underneath to catch the water just in case (thankfully i did) this was also why i only place a couple inches of water in first. i unscrewed the bulkhead, added the seal and was good to go. One elbow on my drain line leaked a little bit. i just pulled it apart and added more glue/cement and sealed it again, let it sit for about 20 minutes and turned everything back on. been running ever since.
 
Everyone does it their own way I'm sure.
I used RODI water and filled the display, made sure there was no leaks in any seam. i used RODI becuase i dont want tap water anywhere near the tank :)
Then i let it run into my overflow a few inches to make sure my bulkheads weren't leaking.
I then kept adding water until the over flow was full and filled my sump while watching the plumbing for any dripping or leakage from the pvc connections.
Once the sump was filled to the level i wanted, i turned on my return pump while adding water to make sure it maintained the level i wanted in the sump. ( i also marked the two different water levels on my sump, running and return off.)
I let it run for a few hours and periodically checked over each area just to be sure.

my Bulkhead on my return was leaking bad. i didnt realize the seal came off when i was installing it. I kept a bucket underneath to catch the water just in case (thankfully i did) this was also why i only place a couple inches of water in first. i unscrewed the bulkhead, added the seal and was good to go. One elbow on my drain line leaked a little bit. i just pulled it apart and added more glue/cement and sealed it again, let it sit for about 20 minutes and turned everything back on. been running ever since.
Thanks. All of my pvc is glued tight. If any of the joints leak there's no way I could get them apart to reglue them. I'm hoping they're ok. The bulkhead is easy to fix, like you said. How did you decide the running level of the return pump chamber? I know the other level is after you've shut everything down and all the water has drained. Sorry for all the questions but this is months of work at stake so I'm a little freaked out!
 
:) no problem trust me i understand.
I based the running level on the height on my return pump since the skimmer can be elevated with crating if needed and just made sure the sump will still have enough room to hold the drainage if i turn the system off for any reason. my sump is on the small side so i had to play with it a little bit.

I filled it up a few inches above the return pump, turned everything on. then added water at the same time till it was steady. then added or removed water manually till i was happy with the level.
 
Figuring out the sump water level is fairly easy. Fill tank till it goes in the overflow to sump. Fill sump to cover pump. Turn on pump, but don't let run dry. Once everything is working and running turn off return. Fill sump to desired level, I usually go for full. Turn on return pump. Once everything is running again mark the sump at that level.

This is your constant level to maintain.
 
hope some of this helped :) let me know how it turns out :D
i have so much fun setting up new stuff :)
 
I've always used tap water to do leak tests.
I done this on probably a dozen or more systems I've set up over the years.
Tap water isn't going to hurt a thing. Plus I'd rather have the option of dumping it if something isn't right, and it helps clean out the pipes, tank and sump.
 
What about leaky PVC joints that have already been cemented (just in case because I worry). :eek:
 
What about leaky PVC joints that have already been cemented (just in case because I worry). :eek:
If you ended up with leaky joints, IMO you should cut them out and do it over. Even if the leak were on a non pressurized joint ( drain) and even if it were over the sump, you should re-do it. Just having leaky pvc joints just kind of sloppy.
Do it right and be proud of your work.
 
I much prefer threaded PVC and thread x thread bulkheads with LaCo PVC thread lubricant on them. Leaks are rarely if ever an issue that way and it's easy to disassemble and modify if you decide to change something. I talk about all of this in the Bulkhead installation tips sticky post at the top of this forum. It has helped a lot of reefers.
 
If you ended up with leaky joints, IMO you should cut them out and do it over. Even if the leak were on a non pressurized joint ( drain) and even if it were over the sump, you should re-do it. Just having leaky pvc joints just kind of sloppy.
Do it right and be proud of your work.
Oh I don't know yet. Lol. I haven't put water in the tank. I'm hoping for the best but like to research everything ahead of time.
 

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