Someone anyone please help!! electrical problem!

Look at this again definately due to overloading.
Add all watts up divide by voltage (120v) this will be your amps.
Divide this number by 15a your result MUST be under .8

This assumes a 15a branch with 14awg wire.

I am about to go do that and figure out how many watts im running
 
Be positive to look at the cord you or using to run from the outlet
to your tank. I have been doing electrical for 20 years and have fond
problems with extension cords being to small over and over.
Don't perches a cord with less than a #14 in them.
And 10 amps tops on a #14 cord. 15 if you can find one with a #12.
 
Last edited:
AWG = American wire gauge
American wire gauge - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


from:
How many watts can a 15 amp circuit support?
tkrussell
May 3, 2005, 01:55 AM

Code only allows any circuit to be loaded 80 % of its rated load. As you noted most devices wil not be on all the time, however, there only needs to be one time for all to be on to exceed the allowed ampacity of th circuit, and to be sure there is absolutely no fire hazard, the 80% rule should be followed.

A 15 amp circuit can carry only a total of 1440 watts,which is 80% of the 1800 watts found by mulitplying the volts times amps,15 x 120 x 80%= 1440.


A 20 amp circuit can be loaded 1920 watts, 120 x 20 x 80%=1920 watts.

If the panel was recently replaced I am sure there is a 15 amp breaker because the installer found a #14 wire, which can only use a 15 breaker,and a 20 amp breaker cannot be connected to it.

The furnace blower nameplate of 12 amps does not include startup, or "Locked Rotor Amps". Motors need to be protected by a breaker 125% of the load, 12 x 125%= 15. This can use # 14 wire and a 15 amp breaker, and should be alone on the circuit.

Also having the lights in the basement on a different circuit will come in handy should the furncae breaker ever trip or needs to be shut off, so you can have light to work on the furnace.

As Labman mentioned about refrigerators and freezers, having them on their own circuit is recommended, so if something on the circuit trips the breaker, you will not lose all the food it the refrigeration, but code does not require this, since these units do not draw much current, usually 3-4 amps .

You msut be absolutely sure what size wire you have before installing a larger breaker on it.Either read the markings on the wire insulation, and if you cant see the markings, get one of the wire strippers that have wire gauges on it to measure the wire.
 
I forgot to update this.... i called someone that same and they came and just needed to replace the outlet part itself and cut off the burnt wire now everything is working like it did before :)

One of the wire connected to the receptacle (i think thats what its called) was lose so it was sparking up so then it melted the plastic and rubber cover for the wire. Just when i turned on my lights was about time the wire was exposed enough which gave it a bigger than usual spark so thats why it looks like that in the picture on the first post. I should of seen this before i knew something was up with that outlet but didnt pay it any mind. Now i learned my lesson always check those freakn outlets or any electrical stuff even though it could be a small problem :) .

Thanks everyone for helping me on this thread your input really helped.

R2R is by far my fav forum :D
 
Actually you still need to find the load on the circuit and how it is wired. the loose screw may be due to heating/cooling cycles of the outlet/wire due to overly high load.
 

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