Source water and rodi

[TriggerFinger]

Who is the water quality expert ‘round these parts? I need their assistance...

I think I read somewhere that rodi units are not very useful for source water that has chloramines. My water quality report showed 2.2 ppm for chloramines. I also have 2 other chemicals in the disinfectant category with the chloramines...I have no idea if I have high amounts of “other stuff” in my water or not.

To date (my display and sump are still dry), I’ve been hauling water from a LFS for my 30g that has my KP rock and brute for the other cycling rock. I already hate it and I’ve only brought home about 60 gallons. I’ve been under the impression that chloramines aren’t really filtered out with rodi units without special, expensive filters so I didn’t really think about rodi until it came time to haul the water.

The BRS site says the 5 stage unit can handle “small amounts” of chloramines...what is small amounts?

If I go with the 5 stage, will the filters be sufficient but just wear out faster?

Is the 5 stage the same thing as the 7 stage but the 7 stage has 2 extra di canisters? It’s so overwhelming because I don’t know anything about water purification, what filters out what or how it works. I could get the 5 stage now and then add on di canisters later and that would essentially be the same as the 7 stage unit, right?

-Kate

 

[HotRocks]

Who is the water quality expert ‘round these parts? I need their assistance...

I think I read somewhere that rodi units are not very useful for source water that has chloramines. My water quality report showed 2.2 ppm for chloramines. I also have 2 other chemicals in the disinfectant category with the chloramines...I have no idea if I have high amounts of “other stuff” in my water or not.

To date (my display and sump are still dry), I’ve been hauling water from a LFS for my 30g that has my KP rock and brute for the other cycling rock. I already hate it and I’ve only brought home about 60 gallons. I’ve been under the impression that chloramines aren’t really filtered out with rodi units without special, expensive filters so I didn’t really think about rodi until it came time to haul the water.

The BRS site says the 5 stage unit can handle “small amounts” of chloramines...what is small amounts?

If I go with the 5 stage, will the filters be sufficient but just wear out faster?

Is the 5 stage the same thing as the 7 stage but the 7 stage has 2 extra di canisters? It’s so overwhelming because I don’t know anything about water purification, what filters out what or how it works. I could get the 5 stage now and then add on di canisters later and that would essentially be the same as the 7 stage unit, right?

-Kate

Can you post up your water report and we can see if someone from the #reefsquad can help?

I can tell you this, the BRS 5 stage with proper filter maintenance is likely to give you much better water quality than what you are getting at your LFS. The 7 stage would be even better!

 

[Crabs McJones]

Agreed, the more stages, the closer you are to 100% pure water.

 

[Big G]

The BRS site says the 5 stage unit can handle “small amounts” of chloramines...what is small amounts?

Call them and tell them your specific chloramine level. They are really helpful and lots of knowledge to share.

 

[rkpetersen]

Is the 5 stage the same thing as the 7 stage but the 7 stage has 2 extra di canisters? It’s so overwhelming because I don’t know anything about water purification, what filters out what or how it works. I could get the 5 stage now and then add on di canisters later and that would essentially be the same as the 7 stage unit, right?

Yes, this is more or less correct. The 5 stage has one mixed bed DI cannister, the two extra DI cannisters in the 7 stage are actually specific cation and anion exchangers to really polish your water clean. Unless you have really high TDS or most of your TDS is one particular anion or cation, you probably don't need them right off. If you later have your water tested and find that something is breaking through, you can add an additional specialty DI resin cannister then. For example, I was getting a bit of silica breaking through (very common), so I added a SilicaBuster DI resin cannister and that was that.

Agree with Big G that BRS can tell you what level of chloramines their standard systems can handle. If you need more aggressive chloramine degradation, BRS also has this unit which you can add to your system, although it's pricey.

 

[lapin]

Let me add; The stage that removes chloramines is the carbon one. There are different levels of carbon cartridges. You will most likely need 2 carbon cartridges of the type that removes it.

 

[Flippers4pups]

Carbon blocks remove chloramine.

Basic carbon blocks will remove most chloramine before it reaches the membrane. Membrane will do little to remove it and actually will damage it over time. Depending on the amount of chloramine, you may need special carbon block to remove it.

DI resin will remove some to little residual chloramine, but it will get through it and into your "clean RO/DI water.

You can test to see if your carbon blocks are near exhausted by testing your waste water exiting your unit for chloramine. Test strips for free and total chlorine.

 

[TriggerFinger]

Water comes from Illinois American water and the plant is in east St. Louis.

 

[cracker]

I' guess I'm lucky I conacted my water company & a nice Lady who was head of water quality dept assured me they don't use cloramines.

 

[rkpetersen]

So chloramine levels up to 2.5 ppm. That's pretty high, although not the highest.

Here's a relevant article by R2R's own resident chemistry expert, RHF:
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.htm

In a nutshell, with his own chloramine level of 0.5 ppm, a standard RODI system could take care of it easily. For other aquarists, he found that even a chloramine level of up to 3.5 ppm could be handled with standard sediment and carbon filters, but that the filters need to be changed more often. Also, monitoring for any breakthrough chlorine/chloramine is pretty easy with test strips, so you can keep an eye on it and take action quickly if your system isn't doing the job adequately.

 

[rkpetersen]

I' guess I'm lucky I conacted my water company & a nice Lady who was head of water quality dept assured me they don't use cloramines.

Ridiculously lucky to have mountain runoff municipal water here, just filtered, no chemical processing at all, 50 TDS. DI resin lasts a good while and I only need one carbon filter.

 

[lapin]

Rain water here. 13 out of the tap.

 

[rkpetersen]

Rain water here. 13 out of the tap.

Lucky. Also, what is municipal water in Austin? I bet it's pretty hard.

 

[lapin]

I have heard its 150 to 345 depending on what water district you are in in Austin.

 

[TriggerFinger]

My water comes from the good ole Mississippi River...you are all luckier than me. I’m scared to see what a tds meter would read.
So I will start with the 5 stage and see if it’s sufficient and how long the filters will last. “rodi hook up help!” thread coming soon;Happy

 

[rkpetersen]

I’m scared to see what a tds meter would read.

It's a good idea to get 1, 2, or more inline TDS meters right from the start, if you can afford the relatively modest additional expense. And if you do, you'll know the answer, for better or worse. Don't forget, knowledge is power!