Spotlighting the Aquatec Booster Pump Kit | BRStv

[randyBRS]

Hey Reefers!

Just more than you're average How-To video, we share pretty much everything you want to know about the Booster Pump Kit for your RODI unit!

 

[DLHDesign]

Great video (as always) - thanks!

I've got a booster pump with the auto-shutoff installed and have noticed that the auto-shutoff makes a repetitive clicking sound as water is running through it. The sound is loud enough that I can hear it above everything else. Just wondering if that's normal, or if it may be defective somehow?

 

[randyBRS]

Great video (as always) - thanks!

I've got a booster pump with the auto-shutoff installed and have noticed that the auto-shutoff makes a repetitive clicking sound as water is running through it. The sound is loud enough that I can hear it above everything else. Just wondering if that's normal, or if it may be defective somehow?

It does have an audible click when it's activated, however if your reservoir is empty and the water is free flowing then I wouldn't expect it to constantly be turning ON/OFF. It may be the pressure sensor is set just a bit too sensitive, in which case you could try making a minor adjustment to the screw on the sensor.

If you did decide to make an adjustment a ball valve can be very handy. What I would do is make an adjustment to the screw, close the valve and take notice of how long it takes for the pump to shut off. If it were me, I would play around with the adjustment and see if there is a point where it stops clicking while the water is flowing. Not sure if it is the answer, but it is what I would try myself.

-Randy

 

[Flameback Pair]

I might have missed it in the video but how would you incorporate an Apex RO solenoid into this setup and would it help a lot?

 

[DLHDesign]

It may be the pressure sensor is set just a bit too sensitive, in which case you could try making a minor adjustment to the screw on the sensor.

It's likely that I "bumped" that during install. I'll give it try when next I'm filling up the tank - thanks!

My system is actually a bit more complicated than the default (or even what you show here), so that may be playing into things as well. I didn't like the idea of dumping the waste water, so I set it up to capture that as well as the clean water. This meant adding an additional auto-shutoff value and pressure switch. Without those, when the waste tank filled up, it would back up into the membranes and cause the DI resin to be consumed at an almost visible rate... 8-(

(My eventual plan is to fix the storage tank to not leak, but also put an overflow drain into the waste tank. That way, if the waste fills up, I can keep making water, but just not capture the waste. Some day...)

 

[randyBRS]

I might have missed it in the video but how would you incorporate an Apex RO solenoid into this setup and would it help a lot?

The only benefit I could really see, specifically to Apex control, is if you're using your reservoir as your ATO and maybe using Kalkwasser in it. With a solenoid, you could keep the water line closed until the reservoir was empty, then turn the water back on in Fusion. The float valve in the top of the reservoir would automatically shut the water off when it was full.

Other than a simple desire to control this operation with your phone or computer, if you wanted to do the same thing for about $10-bucks you could just add a ball valve after the pressure sensor and run my example manually.

-Randy

 

[randyBRS]

It's likely that I "bumped" that during install. I'll give it try when next I'm filling up the tank - thanks!
My system is actually a bit more complicated than the default (or even what you show here), so that may be playing into things as well. I didn't like the idea of dumping the waste water, so I set it up to capture that as well as the clean water. This meant adding an additional auto-shutoff value and pressure switch. Without those, when the waste tank filled up, it would back up into the membranes and cause the DI resin to be consumed at an almost visible rate... 8-(
(My eventual plan is to fix the storage tank to not leak, but also put an overflow drain into the waste tank. That way, if the waste fills up, I can keep making water, but just not capture the waste. Some day...)

Yikes! Yeah, with nowhere for the waste water to go it goes straight past the membrane with a full load of TDS to your DI. I hate wasting water too, but finding a solution to collect over double the amount of good water can be pretty difficult! Good luck!

 

[DLHDesign]

I hate wasting water too, but finding a solution to collect over double the amount of good water can be pretty difficult! Good luck!

With the upgraded volume and my water pressure/quality, I get pretty close to a 1:1. Not exactly, of course, but close. During the summer months, the waste tank is used to fill the kiddie pools almost every day (our youngest loves to dump dirt and sand into the pool constantly; lots of water changes...). In winter, I use it to water the lawns and wash the cars and the like (it's got a pump on it, of course). Sometimes it does just go down the drain anyways - but not always...

 

[A_game43]

Great video, I have been thinking about adding a pump to my RODI system but after the video I do have a question for you. My house water pressure on my RODI system is about 85psi would adding a pump really do anything for my making ratio versus waste water? Would there be a benefit with the pump to make my membrane more effective versus the house system pressure? Looking forward to your reply. Many thanks

 

[DLHDesign]

Would there be a benefit with the pump to make my membrane more effective versus the house system pressure?

Do you have consistent 85psi? What about when you have the shower going, or sprinklers on?

Odds are that no - a booster pump would not help. And it's actually possible that you would want to do the opposite - reduce the pressure in the line into the system. This is because the RO membranes have a "sweet spot" around 75psi. Too much below or above this and the membrane is less optimal. +10psi is unlikely to have any major impact, I wouldn't think, but a pressure reducer could help you dial it in.

 

[jahnje]

I had to put a ball valve after my pressure switch anyway, as there is an almost constant intermittent trickle of waste water coming out if I don't hard shutoff the product line. The float valve just doesn't seem to have enough leverage or something to fully shut off the line. I get about 4 gallons of wastewater a day if I only rely on the float valve. It doesn't seem to continue to fill up my my reservoir. I ended up getting both a booster pump, auto flush, and an input check valve to see if I could stop this, but no luck. Though now that I've got all of that I can easily do 40 gallons of water changes out of a 25 gallon reservoir and still have product to spare, as the RO/DI system comes pretty close to keeping up.

 

[A_game43]

Odds are that no - a booster pump would not help. And it's actually possible that you would want to do the opposite - reduce the pressure in the line into the system. This is because the RO membranes have a "sweet spot" around 75psi.

Many thanks for your reply, I will really watch my pressure now. I only fill my RO tank at night when I am home so the system does not see a lot of fluctuation from a pressure stand point but I will watch closer now. Adding a "Pressure reducer" is ok as well and I will do this if I notice that my system pressure is always on the higher side.

RW

 

[randyBRS]

Great video, I have been thinking about adding a pump to my RODI system but after the video I do have a question for you. My house water pressure on my RODI system is about 85psi would adding a pump really do anything for my making ratio versus waste water? Would there be a benefit with the pump to make my membrane more effective versus the house system pressure? Looking forward to your reply. Many thanks

With pressure already at 85, there's really no benefit to adding a booster pump to your system. Not only would it have minimal effect on your current rejection rates and water production, but you'd also start to run the risk of over stressing the fittings and filters themselves which could potentially lead to leaks.

-Randy

 

[Actuarious]

I have home pressure at about 65psi. I also have the 150 gpd with 2 membranes. The booster pump gets me to about 88-90psi. Is that too high. I heard that with the 2 membranes you want to be at a higher psi. My TDS get better rejection at the higher psi (7) than at the normal pressure (12).

 

[chikoy]

just to clarify, do i still need to install an auto shut off kit if my ro/di system has a booster pump or pressure switch?

 

[randyBRS]

just to clarify, do i still need to install an auto shut off kit if my ro/di system has a booster pump or pressure switch?

You'd want an auto shut off valve on your RODI unit to stop the flow of waste water, when your reservoir is full. The pressure that builds in the unit when the reservoir is full will also tell the pressure switch (included in the booster pump kit) to electronically shut off the pump. Without the switch, you would manually have to power down the pump when you remembered to do it.

-Randy

 

[chikoy]

You'd want an auto shut off valve on your RODI unit to stop the flow of waste water, when your reservoir is full. The pressure that builds in the unit when the reservoir is full will also tell the pressure switch (included in the booster pump kit) to electronically shut off the pump. Without the switch, you would manually have to power down the pump when you remembered to do it.

-Randy

if i have an auto shut off kit https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instructions/article/Installing-an-auto-shut-off-valve is the install the same (i copied from your site) or different with a booster pump? thanks randy!

 

[randyBRS]

if i have an auto shut off kit https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/instructions/article/Installing-an-auto-shut-off-valve is the install the same (i copied from your site) or different with a booster pump? thanks randy!

The install for the auto shut off valve that you linked to will remain the same. I'd suggest installing that first, then follow the installation steps for the booster pump in this video.

 

[chikoy]

okay thanks for the help randy! much appreciated!

 

[FLSharkvictim]

Thanks @randyBRS , big fat thumbs up on this video!! All of these years I was only running around 40psi's coming out of my 4 stage RODI SYSTEM so I finally did a upgrade after i finished up my saltwater mixing station.
Anyhow, so I installed that booster pump and BOOM PSI SHOT TO 90.. I still have to buy a Watts Pressure reducing valve so my PSI's can be around the 80- 85range and keep it there and with the Watts Pressure reducing valve you can make that happen like Randy mentioned in the video.
Ones I install my RODI panel above my mixing station i will be ready to put up the new BRS 6 stage RODI system w/ a double membrane along with the booster pump I will be in good shape... Ones I place my order for my new Sump which is the last pcs of gear I need to start the new build. i am currently working with a SUMP MFG for my SCA-150 which is the last piece to the puzzle. After designing this system for over a year it will be time to start hard plumbing the synergy external over flow box and my returns.. I know there are some people asking me when am I going to start my build thread for my new SCA 150 build and the answer to that is , ones I get my custom 44'' x18''x18'' sump built then I will began my Build thread in the members area under FLSharkvictim SCA1-50 Build

50 gallon saltwater mixing station

BRS 6 STAGE RODI INCLUDING AQUATECH BOOSTER PUMP KIT

RODI PANEL THAT WILL SIT ABOVE THE MIXING STATION