SPS and new tank question

[twerdine92]

Hey everyone... I have a quick question!

I have a pretty established 40g breeder and I've gotten heavy into SPS over the last 4 months (it's more of an addiction, but I'm sure you all share that feeling). My 40g breeder is becoming too small (or I just have too much coral) either way, I want to upgrade to a 90g that I have sitting and waiting.

Problems and questions:

In May, I am moving across the country to Texas (from Indiana - aprox 20 hours in a UHaul)

Should I set up my 90g when I move to Texas and start cycling some rock for the new tank now and move everything from my current system to the 90 once I make it to Texas?
OR
Do I reset up my 40g and make sure I have no problems with all of my SPS (acros, monti's, etc) and then start the 90g build?

I'm currently in the "collection stage" and I'm getting all of the additional parts that I'll need for the build... Bigger skimmer, more lights, etc.

Pics are just a few of my pieces

 

[Ron Reefman]

Moving and having a reef tank are always tricky.

If you can set up the new tank in Texas and get it started, I think that would be the way to go. Then move the old tank and set it up as well. Give the old tank a chance to re-stabilize so you'll know everything is OK, or at least as much as possible. That also gives the new tank time to cycle. But recognize that the new tank may still have algae (dino) or bacterial bloom issues which can be hard on some corals.

I'd try to have both run for as long as it takes to SLOWLY move things from the old tank to the new one without causing any new stress in the new tank.

Good luck

 

[twerdine92]

Moving and having a reef tank are always tricky.

If you can set up the new tank in Texas and get it started, I think that would be the way to go. Then move the old tank and set it up as well. Give the old tank a chance to re-stabilize so you'll know everything is OK, or at least as much as possible. That also gives the new tank time to cycle. But recognize that the new tank may still have algae (dino) or bacterial bloom issues which can be hard on some corals.

I'd try to have both run for as long as it takes to SLOWLY move things from the old tank to the new one without causing any new stress in the new tank.

Good luck

Well, the new 90g wouldn’t be getting setup until the move. So I’d break down my 40b, move all of my fish, coral, and equipment to Texas. Then reset up the 40g and get the 90g started.

I wish I could take the 90g down next month when I’ll be there and get it started then. But unfortunately I won’t be able to

 

[eskymick]

As long as moving your existing setup is feasible, I'd do that. But, a twenty hour u-haul trip is certainly a challenge. I'm sure everyone following this post would like to hear how that goes.

Once you get to your new destination, get your 40g set up and stabilized, and begin the build of your 90g. When the 90g is ready, it should be fairly easy to transfer livestock and live rock from the 40g to the new setup.

 

[Aaron iReef2]

You could set up just the refugium for the 90 and get it started. If you do a mud bed or sand bed for the 90 refugium, keep that in tact with about an inch of water above the sand bed and keep a battery powered air pump running on both refugiums during the move. Also, for the 40b. Try not to disrupt the 40b show tank sandbed in the same way. Plus, its best not to pull the base pieces of live rock out of the sand bed (if possible) . Stirring the sand bed up leads to the most issues. It will make the show tank move more difficult because of weight.
Also, keep biological media sealed in bags of fish tank water during the move.
Sponges, ceramic media, bio medias.

Finally, noticed the pic of the green poccillopora. I would recommend keeping those out of a heavily stocked sps tank. The produce offspring that disperse all throughout the tank and can cause issues with all the other sps. Read up on that coral in captivity. I've had em before and they always cause issues. They are beautiful tho. Your decision...?

 

[twerdine92]

As long as moving your existing setup is feasible, I'd do that. But, a twenty hour u-haul trip is certainly a challenge. I'm sure everyone following this post would like to hear how that goes.

Once you get to your new destination, get your 40g set up and stabilized, and begin the build of your 90g. When the 90g is ready, it should be fairly easy to transfer livestock and live rock from the 40g to the new setup.

I am moving my existing setup. I’ll definitely keep this thread updated on the move once it happens.

Should I remove my existing aragonite and add new once I make it to Texas?

 

[twerdine92]

You could set up just the refugium for the 90 and get it started. If you do a mud bed or sand bed for the 90 refugium, keep that in tact with about an inch of water above the sand bed and keep a battery powered air pump running on both refugiums during the move. Also, for the 40b. Try not to disrupt the 40b show tank sandbed in the same way. Plus, its best not to pull the base pieces of live rock out of the sand bed (if possible) . Stirring the sand bed up leads to the most issues. It will make the show tank move more difficult because of weight.
Also, keep biological media sealed in bags of fish tank water during the move.
Sponges, ceramic media, bio medias.

Finally, noticed the pic of the green poccillopora. I would recommend keeping those out of a heavily stocked sps tank. The produce offspring that disperse all throughout the tank and can cause issues with all the other sps. Read up on that coral in captivity. I've had em before and they always cause issues. They are beautiful tho. Your decision...?

Thank you for the advise. My sandbed in my 40b display stays pretty well turned over. My CUC does a good job, along with light vacuuming during my weekly water changes has kept things pretty well under control. My question is - Do I remove the old sand once I make the move just in case? Or will keeping it be OK as long as it's not too disturbed? I'll definitely keep the biological media sealed in bags of fish tank water (could I also just store them in buckets of fish tank water?)

The green poccillopora was one of my first SPS. it's a pretty big colony which won't be in there after the move. I just keep it to frag and sell! Thank you for the advise!

 

[Aaron iReef2]

You must keep the refugium sand beds in tact. But i do suggest doing a new show tank sand bed if the bed is over 3 years old especially. If its only a year old , then you may consider keeping it. 2 years, your choice.
When you pull up larger base pieces of rock out of the sand bed , it will disrupt yhe filyration and you may see ammonia and nitrites kick up for a week or so after the disruption.
Your cucumber and conchs, etc are great for gentle natural movement of yhe sand bed. But pulling large base pieces and physically stirring or moving the sand bed can be detrimental.

 

[twerdine92]

You must keep the refugium sand beds in tact. But i do suggest doing a new show tank sand bed if the bed is over 3 years old especially. If its only a year old , then you may consider keeping it. 2 years, your choice.
When you pull up larger base pieces of rock out of the sand bed , it will disrupt yhe filyration and you may see ammonia and nitrites kick up for a week or so after the disruption.
Your cucumber and conchs, etc are great for gentle natural movement of yhe sand bed. But pulling large base pieces and physically stirring or moving the sand bed can be detrimental.

I don’t have any sand in my refugium, only cheato.

My show tank’s sand bed will be 6 months old once moved (I originally started with a very fine sand and hated it, so slowly removed and added aragonite).

I was thinking to either totally remove the aragonite and add new once I move, or keep it, along with some water and the base rocks in the tank for the move

 

[Aaron iReef2]

If you only have cheato in your fuge, then probably best to keep the older aragonite. Try not to stir or move the old aragonite too much. Leave an 1" of saltwater above the sand bed. This should help keep the biological in tact.
If you are starting a new refugium for the 90, then consider adding new biological media (sponges, ceramic media, etc) in your old refugium for a few weeks to help that media get off to a faster start.
Also, get Aqua Vitro ALPHA. It will remove ammonia from water column and make the water safer for aquatic livestock when you arrive at new location and add new saltwater.
Penn Plax makes a B11 battery powered airpump that works very well for moves. 2 d batteries will go about 6 to 8 hours. Lithium 2x that long.
This pump can be used as basic a backup on your new 90 in the future. It automatically comes on when the power goes off. Very nice affordable back up for aeration.

 

[twerdine92]

If you only have cheato in your fuge, then probably best to keep the older aragonite. Try not to stir or move the old aragonite too much. Leave an 1" of saltwater above the sand bed. This should help keep the biological in tact.
If you are starting a new refugium for the 90, then consider adding new biological media (sponges, ceramic media, etc) in your old refugium for a few weeks to help that media get off to a faster start.
Also, get Aqua Vitro ALPHA. It will remove ammonia from water column and make the water safer for aquatic livestock when you arrive at new location and add new saltwater.
Penn Plax makes a B11 battery powered airpump that works very well for moves. 2 d batteries will go about 6 to 8 hours. Lithium 2x that long.
This pump can be used as basic a backup on your new 90 in the future. It automatically comes on when the power goes off. Very nice affordable back up for aeration.

Thank you for all of the information! I have a ton of media starting to cycle in my sump for the 90g build!

Perfect, I will take a look at Aqua Vitro Alpha along with some Penn Plax B11 airpumps!!