.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
I asked him on that post. Waiting on his reply.
SPS Bleaching
- Thread starter tcoyle
- Start date
- Tagged users None
This is great discussion. I really like opportunity to check what I think I know about this hobby. So, since both of us are having different interpretation of what Randy says, lets see if he can help.
@Randy Holmes-Farley can you please help us out here to understand better magnesium dosing.
Thanks.
CB
@Randy Holmes-Farley can you please help us out here to understand better magnesium dosing.
Thanks.
CB
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Yea I'm not saying I'm right I gues I'm explaining it how I understand it[emoji51][emoji51]lol
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Randy What is the role of magnesium chloride and magnesium sulfate while dosing calcium chloride and sodium carbonate. Why does the instructions call for dosing 20z of magnesium if you dose 1 gallon of each 2 part additive.
Nowell
Active Member
You made the statement that "it [is] a higher grade of material than BRS." I was curious if you had laboratory analysis to back that up, as you were specifically referring to the "grade" of the material. I wish I could have said that "I just [knew]" when I failed to isolate 99.9999% of material and only received 96% on my gravimetric chloride laboratory in undergrad.
Nowell
Active Member
Also, when you say "it lasts me a lot longer,' what do you mean by that? It doesn't just last you longer, but "a lot" longer. 10, 20% longer? By implication would the BRS product be 80-90% pure? What would the filler be to make up the difference?
If it is good with you all I think we should make another thread (I'll take care of it). It is getting way off topic and Tim is not getting the answers he needs.
Tim,
It will help a lot if you add more information about your system including:
1. Gross water volume of your complete system
2. Net water volume (incl. sump etc.)
3. Are you using a CaCO2 reactor or other technique
4. Are you using a PO4 reactor (how long, how long ago, etc.)
5. Are you using Ozone
6. Are you using UV
7. What skimmer are you using (type, rated water volume)
8. What are your actual PO4 and NO3 levels
9. What are your actual Ca, Alk and Mg levels
10. What filtration method do you use (refugium, DSB, Miracle Mud, etc.)
11. Type of light (Watt, color temp, how old, etc.)
12. What corals do you keep
14. How long has the tank been running
16. Any supplemental dosing (type, amount, why, etc.)
17. Live rock (how much, how old, etc.)
18. Any present problems
19. Problem description (tissue loss tips, tissue loss base, diatom bloom, algae, etc.)
20. What test kit do you use (how old, recently switched, etc.)
22. Other water parameters and water stability (salinity, temp, etc.)
23. Which salt brand do you use
Also, pictures of your tank and sump will help people to have insights.
Good luck.
CB
Tim,
It will help a lot if you add more information about your system including:
1. Gross water volume of your complete system
2. Net water volume (incl. sump etc.)
3. Are you using a CaCO2 reactor or other technique
4. Are you using a PO4 reactor (how long, how long ago, etc.)
5. Are you using Ozone
6. Are you using UV
7. What skimmer are you using (type, rated water volume)
8. What are your actual PO4 and NO3 levels
9. What are your actual Ca, Alk and Mg levels
10. What filtration method do you use (refugium, DSB, Miracle Mud, etc.)
11. Type of light (Watt, color temp, how old, etc.)
12. What corals do you keep
14. How long has the tank been running
16. Any supplemental dosing (type, amount, why, etc.)
17. Live rock (how much, how old, etc.)
18. Any present problems
19. Problem description (tissue loss tips, tissue loss base, diatom bloom, algae, etc.)
20. What test kit do you use (how old, recently switched, etc.)
22. Other water parameters and water stability (salinity, temp, etc.)
23. Which salt brand do you use
Also, pictures of your tank and sump will help people to have insights.
Good luck.
CB
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Answer is in the link
.AcroKiller.
2500 Club Member
Meaning the answer to the magnesium talk above
mcarroll
10K Club member
If only it were that simple as a temperature issue. Temperature is one possible contributor.
It sounds to me like the tank is chemically in flux with strange additions for nitrate and phosphate, for example. I would doublecheck your lights doublecheck your chemistry again and if everything is fine let the system stabilize.
Stop adding and removing things for at least three months if you believe everything is good according to the numbers.
If you don't have a lux meter to judge how bright your lights are, I would highly recommend one. The cost usually less than $15 and it's something your eyeballs are not good at. [emoji106]
(Edit: I forgot to mention that your alkalinity spike could very well be the cause of this. Just so you know and don't expend more extreme amounts of effort trying to find a mystery cause.)
It sounds to me like the tank is chemically in flux with strange additions for nitrate and phosphate, for example. I would doublecheck your lights doublecheck your chemistry again and if everything is fine let the system stabilize.
Stop adding and removing things for at least three months if you believe everything is good according to the numbers.
If you don't have a lux meter to judge how bright your lights are, I would highly recommend one. The cost usually less than $15 and it's something your eyeballs are not good at. [emoji106]
(Edit: I forgot to mention that your alkalinity spike could very well be the cause of this. Just so you know and don't expend more extreme amounts of effort trying to find a mystery cause.)
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mcarroll
10K Club member
He's referring to the concentration. Not the grade of material.
If you start with dry materials, you can mix it to any concentration you want.
There is no "correct" concentration. Just concentrations that are better for this or that purpose.
For example if you are running an automatic doser, you would want a relatively low concentration so that the drips are not adding very much material at once, thus increasing the resolution of your doser.
On the other hand if you are dosing by hand and small amounts, you probably want a much more concentrated dose so you're not standing with your arm over the tank for so long. [emoji6]
The only requirement so far as concentration is concerned is that you know the concentration so you can determine how much to dose.
The reef chemistry calculator is merely a shortcut to knowing this and doing the calculation, FYI. [emoji106]
http://reef.diesyst.com/chemcalc/chemcalc.html
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OP
OP
tcoyle
Active Member
I am pretty sure this is the case as prior to my reagent issues things were going great. Just suprised that it took so long to effect the corals.
