SPS getting fried by radion pro

[Jay6363]

I recently upgraded from a radion G1 to a Pro, I have corals near the surface that are doin great as I acclimated over time. Started at 45% intensity and now am at 75% max for 3 hrs a day. My G1 was at 100% for 3 hrs a day. I have gotten some new SPS and when ordering I ask where they have there's placed and what lighting. So when I recieve them I acclimate as we would usually do, then I move them slowly to there permanent spots. All the coral that normaly would take higher light keep getting fried.... So the radion pro is pretty intense I suppose. I am surprised bc I have quite a few already near he surface that are doing great and Im only at 75% intensity max.


so my question I geuss is should I be doing a slower acclimation or put them lower in the tank? problem is I have really no real estate lower.... and have been trying to buy higher light corals....... I saw Mr. saltwater's radion pro Par test and wondering if I can just leave them on the gravel bed.

60 gal with one radion pro, and two kessil 150w on the sides.

let me know what you guys think?

 

[Zack]

Sounds like you have the intensity too high. Try cutting it way down. The pros are VERY strong.

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[Zack]

Especially with you combining it with the kessils, that's a lot of light!

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[Jay6363]

Agreed, corals that are at the surface now are loving it, my problem is newer corals I bring in are not liking the high intensity. Even if they are a high light coral.


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[Jay6363]

Kessils are for the sides there is not enough spread to cover the corners.


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[Ramathorn937]

In the video Mark says he has his radions running at max of 20% on his 300 gallon tank. And you're at 75% on a tank nearly 1/6 the size.

So I would say knock that intensity waaaaaay down

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[Jay6363]

No mark did par tests at different levels and intensities .......




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[Jay6363]

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[gmoney243]

Marks 375g tank is also a DD tank 30" deep u need to just turn them down

Heres a video of his tank shot with my cell phone. As u can see the colors are great. Even tho i didnt get any shots of his sps because the were frags the all looked great as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtHDLLtQCiU&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Heres a awsome acan he has as well

 

[Jay6363]

Thanks guys I figured lol probably the most obvious thing for me to do.....

How far back do you think I should crank them back?


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[Dan1789]

Well, mark said he runs his pros at 20%. So I would dial yours down to to there and try that. The corals that are doing fine should still be ok I would think. And eventually, very slowly, you could probably ramp it up. Personally I don't have any sps coral but I would leave it at 20% for a couple weeks and see how the new ones do compared to your old ones.

 

[gmoney243]

Depends on the size of ur tank but with those numbers the pros are way powefull. Maybe even less than 20% if u have a 24" depth tank.

 

[mike007]

I always leave my newly bought corals on the sand bed a couple of weeks and then slowly move them up. I have switched over to leds about 4 months ago and have not had any issues with this method.

 

[bct15]

Most people you talk to about high light probably have them placed high under t5s or halides. The kind of light king from an LED is very different then the light coming out of a halide or t5. The light from a led is very intense with a very narrow frequency range, while from halides and t5s is a smother curve across a wider range frequency. To try and compensate for the narrow frequency range several different colors of leds are often used. This gives an overall more broad spectrum, but this spectrum has extremely high peaks ( as you will) at each of the frequency ranges of each of the LEDs. Most sps corals are acclimated to the more less peaky halide/t5 spectrum, and so when you match this with an led the peaks are way higher than the coral can handle causing it to literally get fried. To picture it imagine the spectrum of a a halide as a flashlight set on wide beam, t5 as a flashlight with a normal beam (a couple different colors to match the beam width of the halide would be two or three flashlight beams fanned out), and an led as a laser beam with an array of LEDs and a whole bunch of lazer beams fanned out to try and match the beam width of the other two (I am talkin about picturing the spectrum range and intensities not the light output or anything like that, just a way to think about it). So LEDs can work but you need to either keep the intensity down or very slowly acclimate the sps so it can get more used to the high intensities at specific frequencies.

The statements I made are for a general sense and are not exact. To make things even more difficult to understand, it is even fully understood what exact light spectrums it is that sps coral prefer and which ones harm the corals to optimally configure led arrays yet. Led arrays are going to be the best way to figure this out though, and to customize your spectrum output for growth or coloration or whatever else. We just need to understand it all better, but it is getting there. Sps do seem to be more sensitive to the peaks in intensity than other corals.


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[Jay6363]

I always leave my newly bought corals on the sand bed a couple of weeks and then slowly move them up. I have switched over to leds about 4 months ago and have not had any issues with this method.

This is how I acclimate as well. That's why I started this thread, even though I do it that way corals get fried..... I guess the pro is a little to powerful.


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[mike007]

How high above the water line do you have them?

 

[Jay6363]

12 inches from the water


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[Jay6363]

In the video Mark says he has his radions running at max of 20% on his 300 gallon tank. And you're at 75% on a tank nearly 1/6 the size.

So I would say knock that intensity waaaaaay down

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Sorry I was quick to respond before I read the whole post. I also watched the video again.


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[Jay6363]

Most people you talk to about high light probably have them placed high under t5s or halides. The kind of light king from an LED is very different then the light coming out of a halide or t5. The light from a led is very intense with a very narrow frequency range, while from halides and t5s is a smother curve across a wider range frequency. To try and compensate for the narrow frequency range several different colors of leds are often used. This gives an overall more broad spectrum, but this spectrum has extremely high peaks ( as you will) at each of the frequency ranges of each of the LEDs. Most sps corals are acclimated to the more less peaky halide/t5 spectrum, and so when you match this with an led the peaks are way higher than the coral can handle causing it to literally get fried. To picture it imagine the spectrum of a a halide as a flashlight set on wide beam, t5 as a flashlight with a normal beam (a couple different colors to match the beam width of the halide would be two or three flashlight beams fanned out), and an led as a laser beam with an array of LEDs and a whole bunch of lazer beams fanned out to try and match the beam width of the other two (I am talkin about picturing the spectrum range and intensities not the light output or anything like that, just a way to think about it). So LEDs can work but you need to either keep the intensity down or very slowly acclimate the sps so it can get more used to the high intensities at specific frequencies.

The statements I made are for a general sense and are not exact. To make things even more difficult to understand, it is even fully understood what exact light spectrums it is that sps coral prefer and which ones harm the corals to optimally configure led arrays yet. Led arrays are going to be the best way to figure this out though, and to customize your spectrum output for growth or coloration or whatever else. We just need to understand it all better, but it is getting there. Sps do seem to be more sensitive to the peaks in intensity than other corals.


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Thank you, makes sense.


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[kuansreef]

I only run 25% for SPS tank and my acros love it. Can't imagine started 45%.