Sps help

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malira

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don't know what's going on? Help. It started about 4 to 5 days ago. They are in a separate frag tank plumbed into the main tank. I dipped in bayer 2 weeks ago but not all sps are doing this.

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Parameters
Salinity 1.026
Cal 370
Mag 1360
Alk 8.12
No3 4
 
What was your acclimation to the water, and to the light?

[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG]
 
What was your acclimation to the water, and to the light?

[HASHTAG]#reefsquad[/HASHTAG]
Since the tank is pulling straight from the DT there wasn't any acclimation. The tank ran for a day to make sure everything worked then the corals went in. They have been in there for just over 3 weeks.
 
Since the tank is pulling straight from the DT there wasn't any acclimation. The tank ran for a day to make sure everything worked then the corals went in. They have been in there for just over 3 weeks.
same light intensity? (sorry, thought they were new to both systems)
and same bayer ratio?
 
Did you light acclimate them at all? Also, has you alk stayed consistently in that range? Alk swings can cause the edges and tips to bleach (burn). I would also try and bring the cal up above 400. Its not overly critical and is most likely not the culprit here but still beneficial for the long term health of the system
 
same light intensity? (sorry, thought they were new to both systems)
and same bayer ratio?
Yes to bayer. I've dipped 3 times prior dealing with aefw. None in the last 2. I just dipped. The light intensity I can't tell you. For the first week I had a glass cover on the help shield but for the last 2 weeks no cover. The main DT has 6 t5s, this has 4 t5s.
Here is a fts.

25b85677785dbdf56832d665e2286fe3.jpg





same light intensity? (sorry, thought they were new to both systems)
and same bayer ratio?
 
Did you light acclimate them at all? Also, has you alk stayed consistently in that range? Alk swings can cause the edges and tips to bleach (burn). I would also try and bring the cal up above 400. Its not overly critical and is most likely not the culprit here but still beneficial for the long term health of the system

Yes alk is consistent in 2 weeks it has gone lower than 8.12 no higher than 8.3. My calcium has dropped a little.
 
I'm in the process of make more kalk. I'll get the potassium checked. I hope it's that simple.

370 might be to low for SPS.
I while back I had the same problem when I dipped some new acro's and my CAL was below 350.
Seems that low alk or cal while dipping in Bayer will stress them more than if alk and cal are close to recommended #.
 
The difficulty I see here is the damage has been done, and I would assume has been building for a while and just now has been made appearant.
What do you guys think.
If the corals have been in a slightly unstable system for some time(poor light or parameters) their health was compromised, despite "looking healthy".
IE A zoa does'nt really "just melt", it puts up with you for a while and then just cant take it any more and 24hrs later is crab food.

So if it was unhealthy either the bayer dip or the light shock perhaps did it in.
Ive not seen an sps lose flesh from light shock (but Im still young), and I dont use Bayer.
All the sps ive killed like(flesh loss) that were from rapid swings from poor water acclimation or unstable water parameters.

So
What water did you use for the dip?
and as you seem to have similar tubes, its mor a question of intensity rather than PAR
to check intensity.

galactica lux meter app for iphone
lux light meter by crunchy byte box for android best of 14 I tested.
 
The difficulty I see here is the damage has been done, and I would assume has been building for a while and just now has been made appearant.
What do you guys think.
If the corals have been in a slightly unstable system for some time(poor light or parameters) their health was compromised, despite "looking healthy".
IE A zoa does'nt really "just melt", it puts up with you for a while and then just cant take it any more and 24hrs later is crab food.

So if it was unhealthy either the bayer dip or the light shock perhaps did it in.
Ive not seen an sps lose flesh from light shock (but Im still young), and I dont use Bayer.
All the sps ive killed like(flesh loss) that were from rapid swings from poor water acclimation or unstable water parameters.

So
What water did you use for the dip?
and as you seem to have similar tubes, its mor a question of intensity rather than PAR
to check intensity.

galactica lux meter app for iphone
lux light meter by crunchy byte box for android best of 14 I tested.
It doesn't look like it's loosing flesh so much as looking hard and gradually turning whitish.
 
I just hope it stops. At least until I can get the cal and potassium up.
 
It doesn't look like it's loosing flesh so much as looking hard and gradually turning whitish.
ah. pics hard to see. gonna be a slow motion battle.
check the lights.
All correct me if im wrong. when i see bad thing i put it on the bottom with less turb flow. no matter what cinda coral/
 
FYI, you know your CAL as you can bring that up.
You got to know your K# before you dose.
It might be also wise to turn one of the channels of the light off.
When I used that frag tank for my treatments I used only one channel and when almost done with the treatment I turned the second on too in order to get the acclimated to the 8bulb grow out tank.
 
FYI, you know your CAL as you can bring that up.
You got to know your K# before you dose.
It might be also wise to turn one of the channels of the light off.
When I used that frag tank for my treatments I used only one channel and when almost done with the treatment I turned the second on too in order to get the acclimated to the 8bulb grow out tank.
That sounds like a great idea turning off one of the channels. Keep on dark channel with actinic or the whiter and blue light channel?

I'll get the potassium test ordered.
 
I've bleached plenty of coral and killed em from alk swings. This looks like a different beast. Infection, made susceptible from various reasons?
 

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