SPS light setting help

MarineREEFpassion

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Ok guys I need some help here. I’m trying to venture into the SPS coral a bit and starting off with a green Slimer. I was told their pretty hardy and a bit more forgiving on things so I made the decision and bought a $35 frag of one. My question is, what % should I have the colors set on my led, or should I put it on the default SPS setting? The question is for any and all, but more from my reefing friends that have more experience with SPS. Thanks all and I appreciate any help. I attached a pic of the new frag I got today.

63DE65B0-56A6-43C6-A418-B7AA07B6F38F.jpeg
 
A Lot of variables to consider. Too many to give a solid answer here. Ideally, you would want to get a PAR meter (purchase, borrow, or rent) and test the PAR. Short of that, I would set the light to the SPS preset and turn on acclimation mode (if available) or start with the light turned down a decent amount, and slowly, over the course of several weeks or months, increase the intensity.
 
What lights do you have and how high are they mounted?

If you have Radions, look up AB+ light scbedule. Plan to run at around 50% to start.
 
A Lot of variables to consider. Too many to give a solid answer here. Ideally, you would want to get a PAR meter (purchase, borrow, or rent) and test the PAR. Short of that, I would set the light to the SPS preset and turn on acclimation mode (if available) or start with the light turned down a decent amount, and slowly, over the course of several weeks or months, increase the intensity.
Sounds good. Thank you for the reply! I’ll try out the preset and start it out low.
 
What lights do you have and how high are they mounted?

If you have Radions, look up AB+ light scbedule. Plan to run at around 50% to start.
I have AqaMai/Hydor 100W led lights. They are mounted on the frame of my DT abut 9.5” above the water, the recommended height from the manufacturer.
 
Try turning all blue/UV all the way up, and set other channels to 24%. That will be a rough AB mimic. Start that at 50% intensity if the frag is directly below the lights and halfway down into the tank.

Unless you have 5-6 of those lights,. You'll prob need to have one of them directly over the frag hth.
 
If that schedule is grossly different than what you already run, adjust towards it slowly over the course of a wk or two. Once you arrive, make minor adjustments from there to your liking (also slowly) and then leave it static for at least a mo.


Listen to the frag. If it bleaches, you're going too fast and too bright. If it browns or dulls, it's starved for light.
 
Try turning all blue/UV all the way up, and set other channels to 24%. That will be a rough AB mimic. Start that at 50% intensity if the frag is directly below the lights and halfway down into the tank.

Unless you have 5-6 of those lights,. You'll prob need to have one of them directly over the frag hth.
What about UV? I’ve heard low and high lol. I currently have UV to 35 blues at 90 red 15 and green 3 with intensity at 50%. I’ll give yours a shot and lol
 
If that schedule is grossly different than what you already run, adjust towards it slowly over the course of a wk or two. Once you arrive, make minor adjustments from there to your liking (also slowly) and then leave it static for at least a mo.


Listen to the frag. If it bleaches, you're going too fast and too bright. If it browns or dulls, it's starved for light.
Makes sense. I’ll keep watching it. I’m at my tank every morning and evening ritually and try to watch whenever my little one allows me to lol.
 
Try turning all blue/UV all the way up, and set other channels to 24%. That will be a rough AB mimic. Start that at 50% intensity if the frag is directly below the lights and halfway down into the tank.

Unless you have 5-6 of those lights,. You'll prob need to have one of them directly over the frag hth.
Why would you need to have one light over this?
 
Why would you need to have one light over this?

BC this model of light is only about half as powerful as a lot of the common LED lights (100w vs 170-220w) and it's a puck style lights vs panel so the spread when mounted at 9" will have significant fall off. If there are 5-6 of these lights on a 120g tank it will be less of a concern, but if there are 2-3 then prob best to have one directly over any acropora.hth
 
BC this model of light is only about half as powerful as a lot of the common LED lights (100w vs 170-220w) and it's a puck style lights vs panel so the spread when mounted at 9" will have significant fall off. If there are 5-6 of these lights on a 120g tank it will be less of a concern, but if there are 2-3 then prob best to have one directly over any acropora.hth
Yep exactly what I was going to say lol
 
With those lights you have the ability to raises and lower them when using the bracket accessory. Optimal spread on them is 3' X 3'. There is plenty of light with 2 lights. It would be a matter of placement of the coral in the ideal spot of desired light, probably top to mid range.
 
With those lights you have the ability to raises and lower them when using the bracket accessory. Optimal spread on them is 3' X 3'. There is plenty of light with 2 lights. It would be a matter of placement of the coral in the ideal spot of desired light, probably top to mid range.
Thanks for the help. A par meter might be in my future lol. I’m switching lights as we speak. I just bought two Hydra 64 led’s. Those things are powerful!
 
With those lights you have the ability to raises and lower them when using the bracket accessory. Optimal spread on them is 3' X 3'. There is plenty of light with 2 lights. It would be a matter of placement of the coral in the ideal spot of desired light, probably top to mid range.

Looks to me like the OP may have purchased the aqamai hoping for this to be the case.

Although the mfg suggests this capability, the par testing published online is much more comparable to options typically used for less than a 2'x2' footprint (Radion XR15/Hydra26/Hydra32/Kessill360 vs those typically used for a 2'x2' or larger footprint (XR30/AP700/hydra52hd/hydra64hd).

In that regard the aqamai is likely a superior value and performer within the 80-100w class, and not really a practical alternative to a hydra64/Radion XR30.

@OP, congrats on the lights! I hope this dialogue was beneficial vs distracting.
 
Good luck, but you really had more than enough power on the LRm's
Yeah I know, but I wanted the hydra 64 when it first came out but everywhere was sold out which is why I got my current lights. Same company just a little less powerful. When I upgrade to my 250 DT I’ll need that extra power for depth.
 

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