SPS on a budget

AcroholicReefer

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A lot of hobbyists enjoy the colors of sps corals. Some hobbyist might hesitate about the idea keeping sps corals due to the impression that in order to grow these corals you need expensive chemicals, supplements, and even certain equipment. In actuality, you can cut down on a lot of unnecessary cost that makes growing even the rarest acropora coral affordable. With the economy that we have been through in the recent years, more and more hobbyist are looking for ways to lower the cost of keeping acros. Here are a few guidelines that can help lower the overall cost of keeping delicate acropora corals.


-These guidelines are not intended to give the impression that this is going to give you maximum growth of your acros. It also is not stating that other items are not beneficial to a reef aquarium but mainly states that the marginal benefit of these items is not greater than or equal the marginal cost of these items.-


1) Lighting - Pick which ever lighting you wish to (MH, T5, or LED). As long as the lighting has enough par, it will work out fine. I personally run 250w HQI MH lights but acros can grow fine under different lighting.


2) Flow - A common misimpression is that you have to alternating flow in order to grow sps corals. This leaves hobbyist having to buy expensive controllers and pumps, which are major fixed cost. SPS corals, especially acropora corals, survive best with turbulent flow. This type of flow can easily be accomplished with a variety of pumps that fits your budget and needs. As long as the pump does not have a stream line type of flow, it should work fine.


3) Nutrient Removal/Reduction - Ever since to evolution of the protein skimmer, hobbyist have been able to keep more delicate acropora corals in captivity. The protein skimmer should be the largest investment that you make in your system's equipment budget. I cannot stress to value of a well-built protein skimmer. This does not mean that you have to buy the most expensive skimmer, just one that is adequate for your aquarium’s needs. Most hobbyists now believe that you have to run Carbon and GFO in order to be able to grow acros. However, this is not the case at all. Carbon and GFO are used to supplement the protein skimmer in order to lower the overall nutrient level of the reef system. A well-established system (6 months or longer) has enough beneficial bacteria in it so that as long as you keep up with your water changes, your system will do fine with keeping acros and will not get overgrown by algae.


4) Temperature, Salinity, pH - These two parameters, along with pH, are influenced due to the external environment that the system is in.


-Temperature stability is a critical factor with keeping healthy sps corals but most hobbyists has also found that these corals will live in different ranges. The main thing is to keep the temperature as stable as possible, not matter what the temperature reading is. Some systems can run without a chiller but this just depends on certain factors like water volume, lighting, pumps, external temp, and others.


-Salinity stability is simply achieved with an ATO system. A float valve with a cheap dosing pump works like a champ. I use a tom aquatics dosing pump and a float valve from here.


-Monitoring pH is more important vs actually trying to keep your pH stable. Your pH level is going to tell you that may have over dosed alkalinity or other supplements that you use on a regular basis. You'll find a huge benefit in monitoring pH vs testing it. Often, a large pH swing will get recognized much earlier with using a pH monitor than with a manual test reading, potentially stopping a tank crash.


5) Test Kits - It is important that you understand why you are testing the parameters that you are testing for. New Reef Aquariums need to test for Nitrates, Nitrites, Ammonia, pH, and Salinity. These systems are too new for sps corals but should do fine for most LPS corals. SPS keepers should mainly test for Calcium, Alkalinity, and monitor pH. You can buy a phosphate test kit if you want to but if you keep up with your water changes and don't run gfo, there is no real urgent need to test for phosphates. Out of all of the parameters to test for, I test alkalinity much more than others with salinity next on the list.


6) Supplements - An old saying is that if you cannot test for it, you shouldn't dose it. It is easy to get the wrong impression with all of the uneccessary supplements that are available on the market today. Calcium and alkalinity are the only supplements that you need on a regular basis. This is usually achieved by dosing kalkwrasser in sps reef aquariums. Kalkwrasser is best used in a reactor with RO/DI water but can also be added via a drip bucket or even in your ato container. Part A and Part B supplements work in place of kalkwrasser or to be used along with kalk, depending in the system needs.


SPS systems do require an initial investment no matter which route you wish to take. If you follow the guidelines above, you can easily keep beautiful and colorful sps corals without wasting funds on unnecessary cost.
Feel free to post comments or methods that you take in order to keep growing sps corals affordable. Hopefully this thread will allow new sps hobbyist to keep these beautiful corals without spending too much.
 
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Great information. There are a lot of misleading factors when it comes to growing SPS. You post is very accurate in my opinion and it allows people to see that SPS is not hard to keep and in reality much cheaper than a lot of LPS that's on the market.
 
really nice write up.
I'm curious about the not needing gfo or carbon if you have a sufficient protein skimmer. I've been starting to experience stn in some of my acros and haven't really found the cause. parameters are practically identical to pre-stn incident. Only real difference I see is that I've been experiencing some algae on my substrate and wanting to reduce nitrates and phosphates even further by including a phosban reactor with phosguard. Algae is gone but would that mean I have a ULNS in my tank. I don't have a hanna tester to get real accurate numbers but I just use my API testers. Could a ULNS cause stn?
 
Written very well(seems to be written by someone who has studied business or economics haha). I use a lot of the same methods. In addition to the frequent water changes, I do use a nicer salt in Tropic Marin, which IMO takes the place of the expensive supplements that a lot of other people use.
 
really nice write up.
I'm curious about the not needing gfo or carbon if you have a sufficient protein skimmer. I've been starting to experience stn in some of my acros and haven't really found the cause. parameters are practically identical to pre-stn incident. Only real difference I see is that I've been experiencing some algae on my substrate and wanting to reduce nitrates and phosphates even further by including a phosban reactor with phosguard. Algae is gone but would that mean I have a ULNS in my tank. I don't have a hanna tester to get real accurate numbers but I just use my API testers. Could a ULNS cause stn?

I'm glad you stated that. SPS Corals will grow fine with algae in the system. The pods eat off of the algae and the gametes from the pods contribute to zooplankton in the water column. Ultimately, the zooplankton feeds the acros. The greatest risk that algae has on sps corals is that the algae can grow over and suffocate the coral, preventing photosynthesis. Yes, ULNS can cause stn if there is not enough adequate food left in the water column after the nutrients have been reduced. However, there are several factors that can cause STN. Were you experiencing STN before you added the phosguard? I would take the reactor off of the system and do some nice water changes if you are experiencing STN.
 
Nice article. What about magnesium?

CJ

Thanks. Magnesium is usually replaced by water changes in most systems and there isn't any real need to dose magnesium on a regular basis. It is not a bad idea to have a magnesium test kit but it would be the last test kit that I would buy. I usually check my magnesium level a couple of times a year.
 
A++ Top notch write up!!! People always ask me "how hard is it to set up a saltwater tank?'' and my reponse is " ask hard as you want to make it!!"
 
I'm glad you stated that. SPS Corals will grow fine with algae in the system. The pods eat off of the algae and the gametes from the pods contribute to zooplankton in the water column. Ultimately, the zooplankton feeds the acros. The greatest risk that algae has on sps corals is that the algae can grow over and suffocate the coral, preventing photosynthesis. Yes, ULNS can cause stn if there is not enough adequate food left in the water column after the nutrients have been reduced. However, there are several factors that can cause STN. Were you experiencing STN before you added the phosguard? I would take the reactor off of the system and do some nice water changes if you are experiencing STN.


Just did a WC yesterday and shut the reactor off as well. I have never experienced stn in my tank yet but I've been running phosguard for a couple of months and the stn has started about a few weeks ago. I will keep an eye on the corals now that the reactor is off.
great thread and running a Q and A just supports the thread even more.
GREAT JOB...
 
First.....very nice write-up. I have invested more money then I care to count on my established 180gl sps tank. After 8-year in the hobby I have learned a lot and that process would have saved my a ton of money if I had known more ealrier, but in all fairness the hobby has advanced a great deal over the years too (one example if water flow/pumps).

To that end, I just finished setting up a beautiful custom 60gl Cube and it came out great. With the exception of the actual cost fo the tank and stand I bought the follow equipement and the configuration came out nice. I bought a very nice protein skimmer and sump from Reef Dynamics, ATI PM T5 fixture, (2) MP20 powerheads, an Eheim return pump, a 100w heater, BRS single reactor (had it lying around in basement) and some misc filter socks, etc. I know it sounds like a lot, but it really is a streamlined system and running very smooth for the past 3-months......KISS.

Lastly, what do you mean by this statement: "You can buy a phosphate test kit if you want to but if you keep up with your water changes and don't run gfo, there is no real urgent need to test for phosphates." That is the only one that confused me....can you elaborate please?

Many thanks again and great topic............
 
First.....very nice write-up. I have invested more money then I care to count on my established 180gl sps tank. After 8-year in the hobby I have learned a lot and that process would have saved my a ton of money if I had known more ealrier, but in all fairness the hobby has advanced a great deal over the years too (one example if water flow/pumps).

To that end, I just finished setting up a beautiful custom 60gl Cube and it came out great. With the exception of the actual cost fo the tank and stand I bought the follow equipement and the configuration came out nice. I bought a very nice protein skimmer and sump from Reef Dynamics, ATI PM T5 fixture, (2) MP20 powerheads, an Eheim return pump, a 100w heater, BRS single reactor (had it lying around in basement) and some misc filter socks, etc. I know it sounds like a lot, but it really is a streamlined system and running very smooth for the past 3-months......KISS.

Lastly, what do you mean by this statement: "You can buy a phosphate test kit if you want to but if you keep up with your water changes and don't run gfo, there is no real urgent need to test for phosphates." That is the only one that confused me....can you elaborate please?

Many thanks again and great topic............

Nice set up! I love cube tanks because of the added depth that it has.

Phosphate test kits are really not necessary unless you run gfo. The main reason why you would need a phosphate test kit is in order to be able to see if you are stripping the nutrients from the system. I don't believe that protein skimmers will ever strip phosphates and if the system is well established, water changes will prevent your phosphates level from elevating.
 
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Very interesting! I learned so much! I am getting back into the hobby after many many years so thank you for this
 

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