SPS problems
- Thread starter salty01
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is salinity right?
phosphate is way too high. needs to be .2 or lower or sps make brittle skeletons and can stunt growth.
lighting is fine.
nitrate target 5
alk is fine for such little nitrate.
the tips toward the light are bleaching because you have nothing to photosynthesize. its like having a 455 big block rocket motor, but giving it a drop of ethanol gas to go.
get rid of the aquaforest stuff. that can wreck a tank faster than anything if misused. contrary to popular belief, it isnt magic rainbows in a bottle.
mucus means you irritated the corals. so something in the water is also giving them the itch.
could also be a bleaching event where they cant handle the light load for such pitiful nutrients
phosphate is way too high. needs to be .2 or lower or sps make brittle skeletons and can stunt growth.
lighting is fine.
nitrate target 5
alk is fine for such little nitrate.
the tips toward the light are bleaching because you have nothing to photosynthesize. its like having a 455 big block rocket motor, but giving it a drop of ethanol gas to go.
get rid of the aquaforest stuff. that can wreck a tank faster than anything if misused. contrary to popular belief, it isnt magic rainbows in a bottle.
mucus means you irritated the corals. so something in the water is also giving them the itch.
could also be a bleaching event where they cant handle the light load for such pitiful nutrients
20 inch deep tank, lighting system is 10 inches from top of water
,light is 8 48" t5 lights
I thought about that same thing i have the lights turned down. they are on
20 inch deep tank, lighting system is 10 inches from top of water light is t5 lights
I thought about that same thing i have the lights turn down. they are on about 75 percent at Max about 3 hour peak time I will send pick.
Thanks Russ 265
I've been using AF for about 6 months I'm a little hesitant to stop and quit cold turkey. I've been on the helpline with AF for weeks and they assure me that it's none of the products that are doing it, believe me I thought about it and I would save a ton of money by not using it..the norm is
Phosphates at 0 but what I have read zero phosphate is not good, but do you think that there's a huge difference between 2 and 3? Enough that it would burn the tips of my Coral ? Also how do I get from going from 0 to A Perfect 2? Most the time I'm testing it goes from 0 to 3 then I figure I need to change my GFO how do you regulate phosphate so accurately?
Thanks for you your help I would really like try to lick this last Coral I bought is almost $200 and it doesn't look good
20 inch deep tank, lighting system is 10 inches from top of water light is t5 lights
I thought about that same thing i have the lights turn down. they are on about 75 percent at Max about 3 hour peak time I will send pick.
get nitrate in the system stat. nitrate is the only way you can drive phosphate to .02.
ive spent hundreds on gfo to drive po4 down. overdosed, and without nitrate it never got lower than .06-.08.
.15 is my personal max. there was a white paper on inhibited growth with acros and iirc it was .2 before the deep dive.
raising alk precipitates po4 as well, but without nitrate i would not recommend doing it.
.02 is not .3. and .2 is my personal max before i would start being proactive. .15 is a warning you are too high.
id only suggest .15 if your corals can laugh at 800 par and 12 alk. with 0 nitrate... thatll never happen.
I want to apologize to everyone but I didn't put a zero before the 3 the real reading would have been .003
I retested phosphate and it came out with triple .000
No phosphates at all are no good
looks like you need nutrients...
or subscribe to 1995 advice of 0 everything.
good luck
