SPS Q-Tank set up

[ReefHunter006]

I am looking for suggestions to set up an SPS q-tank for as cheap as possible. Any suggestions? I’ve never had a coral QT before.

 

[Reefing Madness]

 

[MONTANTK]

I’ll be totally honest, and feel free to educate me on why it is becoming popular, I don’t see the point of a coral QT. Odds are the coral will be dipped, placed in a tank that is probably not ideal for it (generally speaking here), and then dipped again and put into a display. To me it seems like a lot of stress and wasted effort than if you just dipped once and put it in the display. Fish I totally understand, corals not so much.

 

[ReefHunter006]

I use to agree. Until montipora eating nudi eggs and black bugs made it past my dips

 

[MONTANTK]

I use to agree. Until montipora eating nudi eggs and black bugs made it past my dips

Ah that is a good point. I remember the store I worked at would order maricultured caught acros and anything with eggs would immediately get thrown in the trash. This even happen with aquacultured acros too

 

[ScottB]

I started a coral QT tank on the cheap years ago and have upgraded it multiple times since then. Be aware that it simply doubles the amount of work time needed, so don't skimp too much on the equipment side creating more work.

ATO is a must have -- especially if it is not sitting right next to your display
You don't need a ton of PAR. In fact just a simple T5 setup is best IMO. A smooth, gentle blanket of light.
Bring over some mature, live rock.
Stock a six-line for pest control and an algae blenny for the obvious.

Are you trying to avoid a sump? Maybe an AIO tank? Hopefully you find one that is shallow and long.

 

[Dr. Jim]

IMO, an SPS Q-Tank needs to have almost all the "bells and whistles" that your main tank has. The corals you put in this tank will be more "delicate" and more prone to have problems compared to established colonies, not only because they are small frags but they are being moved from a system with different parameters.
Also, the Q-tank will hold a relatively small volume of water which will be more difficult to keep stable. You need to be prepared to keep it stable and have the most perfect water and lighting conditions possible, especially if you plan to quarantine for 1-2 months or longer. This mindset would certainly give you the best chances for success.

 

[Oiva]

Get an AIO tank, and set it up as a normal tank. But without live rock and use some BIO media/blocks.

use the cheapest gear you find reliable. Dont need the most expensive pump or light system. Something that will work without breaking the bank.

or if you are only QT a few frags here and there. Get a small tank, a doser that will do Auto water change with water from the main tank. Once QT is over, just empty it and shut it down until you need it again.

thats how i would do it.

 

[Everything Aquatics]

Fish of hex uses a bio cube with ai prime which is pretty cheap

 

[ReefHunter006]

I started a coral QT tank on the cheap years ago and have upgraded it multiple times since then. Be aware that it simply doubles the amount of work time needed, so don't skimp too much on the equipment side creating more work.

ATO is a must have -- especially if it is not sitting right next to your display
You don't need a ton of PAR. In fact just a simple T5 setup is best IMO. A smooth, gentle blanket of light.
Bring over some mature, live rock.
Stock a six-line for pest control and an algae blenny for the obvious.

Are you trying to avoid a sump? Maybe an AIO tank? Hopefully you find one that is shallow and long.

I don’t have a ton of room. I have an old Jebao dosing pump from when I upgraded to apex that I could use. What size would you suggest?

I have a bunch of old equipment aside from lights. Like an additional ATO, dosing pump, power heads etc.
I currently run AI26s on the display.

Here is a pic of display and a pic of where I think I could hide a q/frag tank away in the garage. Might be able to clear the table on the left or right. Would have to install a board to make sure no degree from the cans ever makes it over.

 

[ReefHunter006]

IMO, an SPS Q-Tank needs to have almost all the "bells and whistles" that your main tank has. The corals you put in this tank will be more "delicate" and more prone to have problems compared to established colonies, not only because they are small frags but they are being moved from a system with different parameters.
Also, the Q-tank will hold a relatively small volume of water which will be more difficult to keep stable. You need to be prepared to keep it stable and have the most perfect water and lighting conditions possible, especially if you plan to quarantine for 1-2 months or longer. This mindset would certainly give you the best chances for success.

I have an old Jebao dosing pump, power heads, heaters, etc. the only thing I don’t have is a second skimmer, sump (not sure I have space for it), high end lights.

 

[Dr. Jim]

I have an old Jebao dosing pump, power heads, heaters, etc. the only thing I don’t have is a second skimmer, sump (not sure I have space for it), high end lights.

In my first post, I should have suggested an AIO, like others have suggested. That would certainly be a good starting point. And I really like @Oiva 's suggestion about daily water changes from your DT to the Q-tank. You can move a lot of water thru the Q-tank that way which may counteract any "imperfections" that result from a less-than-perfect system design. (That is what I plan to do on my new build).

The main point I was trying to make: The more corners you cut, the more likely you will have frags that will die. Dead corals will cost you money that you could have sunk into the Q-tank and then have better success with future frags.

 

[Oiva]

I have an old Jebao dosing pump, power heads, heaters, etc. the only thing I don’t have is a second skimmer, sump (not sure I have space for it), high end lights.

A cheap T5 with some ATI bulbs would work. Dont need to have the next gen LED light.

 

[Hydrahawk]

Do you guys dose PO4 and NO3?

 

[Dr. Jim]

Do you guys dose PO4 and NO3?

I have done that at times but try to avoid it. I generally would feed heavily 4 times a day to avoid the dosing. (Of course I always have fish in my SPS Q-tank.)

 

[ScottB]

Do you guys dose PO4 and NO3?

I have done so to counteract a dinoflagellate bloom. Otherwise more fish poo is better.

 

[Hydrahawk]

I don't currently have fish in there nor do I plan to add a fish in there. Since the frags need to stay in there for 3 weeks or more, just wondering what you guys do. I ended up dosing PO4 since it keeps bottoming out. Already lost a BC Aquatic Man Table (could be due to the source of the frag).