Stalled cycle?

[StealthJett]

We r almost set


how many days total has the system had water and bac stewing


you have the expected degree of surface area in play. The anti nitrite stance comes from here:

Water has been in for idk probably 3 weeks and it has had bacteria in from dr Tim’s for at least 17 days

 

[StealthJett]

As long as the water is getting circulated well, some small water falls, surface breakage, etc. You should be ok.

I think we’re a ok, the back compartment acts as a sump as well so that should be good

 

[brandon429]

Final verdict on this cycle:

You are done.

before adding fish, read fish disease forum and select a protocol including only quarantined fish being added

you paid for a five day cycle or less and gave it three weeks plus three oxidation tests which passed all three times. If you need further proof I just pm’d you one of my proofing threads. Every reef in the 25 pages is like yours, the assigned ready dates can be inspected as they’re running reefs now.

 

[Coxey81]

Final verdict on this cycle:

You are done.

before adding fish, read fish disease forum and select a protocol including only quarantined fish being added

Don't you think he should at least wait til he sees his nitrites hit zero? Or get to the point where he knows they are receding?

They are off scale for him, so he really has no idea what they are if I understand correctly.

 

[StealthJett]

Final verdict on this cycle:

You are done.

before adding fish, read fish disease forum and select a protocol including only quarantined fish being added

you paid for a five day cycle or less and gave it three weeks plus three oxidation tests which passed all three times. If you need further proof I just pm’d you one of my proofing threads. Every reef in the 25 pages is like yours, the assigned ready dates can be inspected as they’re running reefs now.

I have a tank up and running with fish that have never expressed signs of illness that have been good for about a year and a half, should they be quarantined before being added?

 

[TWiSTEDSOCiETY]

just my opinion and others may disagree with this, but that rock doesn't look at all porous enough for the bacteria your going to need in the future unless you have a sump under that cabinet. Another just my opinion... I don't know why any manufacture uses bio-balls anymore. I would ditch those and at least get some marine pure bio-media to replace it.

I'll let Brandon pick up on this thread cause he will most defiantly point you in the right direction.

 

[brandon429]

That’s better than fish coming from a pet store for sure. Give it a go, this reef can handle a common bioload without a doubt.

*regarding surface area for sure it’s ok to add more. That setup above as is though is 90% of any reef running on nano-reef.com so it’ll carry a common fish bioload you want, as long as that degree of fish is proper for the tank size behaviorally etc

change out much of the water here for new, it exports algae feed from the ammonia test loading. There isn’t bad ammonia to worry about, it’s for algae cleanliness. Bright lights, feed and fish new load = algae work coming soon n fast

 

[StealthJett]

That’s better than fish coming from a pet store for sure. Give it a go, this reef can handle a common bioload without a doubt.

*regarding surface area for sure it’s ok to add more. That setup above as is though is 90% of any reef running on nano-reef.com so it’ll carry a common fish bioload you want, as long as that degree of fish is proper for the tank size behaviorally etc

change out much of the water here for new, it exports algae feed from the ammonia test loading. There isn’t bad ammonia to worry about, it’s for algae cleanliness. Bright lights, feed and fish new load = algae work coming soon n fast

So are we talking like a 25% water change or go big?

 

[brandon429]

Any degree you prefer is ok. The algae is coming next month anyway that’s just a little padding start with the big water change, half would be ideal just guessing. Helps to not compound nitrogen species on top of current nitrogen species from the wastewater workup

you really did exceed the typical wait time associated with a bottle bac cycle. The 3x verified ammonia reduction really did prove efficacy and readiness

 

[TWiSTEDSOCiETY]

Get ready for the ugly stage @StealthJett. May the force be with you and remember lights are the enemy during your next phase.

 

[StealthJett]

Get ready for the ugly stage @StealthJett. May the force be with you and remember lights are the enemy during your next phase.

Thanks man, it sucks but it’s a necessary evil. It’s like I got a ai prime for nothing lol. Any advice tho?

 

[Coxey81]

Thanks man, it sucks but it’s a necessary evil. It’s like I got a ai prime for nothing lol. Any advice tho?

Don't turn the lights on... lol. Get good at regulating your NO3 and PO4.

Add some chaeto, etc if you have a fuge if NO3 and PO4 climb

Get some good CUC along the line.

Do water changes

 

[TWiSTEDSOCiETY]

Don't turn the lights on... lol. Get good at regulating your NO3 and PO4.

Add some chaeto, etc if you have a fuge if NO3 and PO4 climb

Get some good CUC along the line.

Do water changes

@StealthJett As Coxey said. Fish don't need light they will be fine without and just room light. Also I hope your tank isn't near a window, if it is pull the blinds. That's really the only advise I can give you. Get some of those marine pure bio-media to replace those bio-balls and also keep a bottle of Vibrant, Dr. Tim's Refresh, and get a cleanup crew working after you add the fish. A salfin tang that eats algae won't hurt either, but they get pretty big so someone might have a better option for a algae eating fish than that. Good luck bud.

PS. I wouldn't recommend Chaeto until way down the line. You most likely would need a reactor for it anyways and they aren't cheap. I made the mistake of adding chaeto to one of my new tanks and all I got was hair algae outbreaks cause guess what chaeto needs.... A grow light lol .... that = BAD

 

[StealthJett]

Thanks for the advice guys!