Hi guys, long time lurker. Im building a 8ft stand for a 300g i used 2x6 for top frame and 2x4 for the bottom. The front and back is skinned with 3/4 plywood. The sides will be 1/2 plywood. The unsuported opening is 49" to accomate 4ft sump. Now im hoping the 2x6 will support the 49" without flexing. You guys think it will be ok. I did add a center brace on the back. Because i was uneasy.
Stand 300g willit hold
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HawaiianReef
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It'll be fine.
It even wouldn't matter how you carried the beam to the corner post. The beam is being cantilevered via the 2 load bearing post. Rule of thumb is to not exceed more than double on one end than you have on the other. Or 66% to 33%. Which you haven't.
So, your 2x6 beam will suffice even without the corner post. Your 2 posts placed within the span of your beam is carry most of the load...
Just be sure the ply panels are securely fastened. These are crutial, as they provide shear strength. It keeps the frame from racking and potentially folding up on itself.
Glue up of the panels would be great if possible. If your just nailing or screwing the panels on, try placing them every 8 inches around the parimeter and 12 inches in the middle. Don't go too much. It'll actually weaken the panel. But then you chose 3/4" ply which is Really strong for this application. 1/4" would have worked. So your all in the green there too.
But if you are concerned, you can sister on another 2x6 behind the existing one. This one wouldn't need to be carried by a post at all. It would be there just to stiffen the first 2x6 beam. That should be glued and fastened with screws or nails in 2 rows with each fastener at 12 inches. The top row should stagger the lower row of fasteners. Meaning, if you start the top row at 12 inches from one end, start the lower row at 6 inches. And each row should be set about 1/3 the width from each edge. So the top about 1 and 7/8" from the top edge, the bottom row set the same from the bottom edge.
I don't think you'll need the extra 2x6 but since you've aleady did an awsome job on it, and if it'll help you sleep better, I'd say continue on and add it. It'll only make it stronger.
If you need more details, maybe an illustration, I know my explinations aren't the greatest, I'll try to draw what I explained out for you.
But this is lokking friggin awsome!
Can't wait to see the tank.
There will be a build coming... is there?
Well..
Get That Bad Boy Together and at the Least- Show Us Some Corals!!!;Woot
It even wouldn't matter how you carried the beam to the corner post. The beam is being cantilevered via the 2 load bearing post. Rule of thumb is to not exceed more than double on one end than you have on the other. Or 66% to 33%. Which you haven't.
So, your 2x6 beam will suffice even without the corner post. Your 2 posts placed within the span of your beam is carry most of the load...
Just be sure the ply panels are securely fastened. These are crutial, as they provide shear strength. It keeps the frame from racking and potentially folding up on itself.
Glue up of the panels would be great if possible. If your just nailing or screwing the panels on, try placing them every 8 inches around the parimeter and 12 inches in the middle. Don't go too much. It'll actually weaken the panel. But then you chose 3/4" ply which is Really strong for this application. 1/4" would have worked. So your all in the green there too.
But if you are concerned, you can sister on another 2x6 behind the existing one. This one wouldn't need to be carried by a post at all. It would be there just to stiffen the first 2x6 beam. That should be glued and fastened with screws or nails in 2 rows with each fastener at 12 inches. The top row should stagger the lower row of fasteners. Meaning, if you start the top row at 12 inches from one end, start the lower row at 6 inches. And each row should be set about 1/3 the width from each edge. So the top about 1 and 7/8" from the top edge, the bottom row set the same from the bottom edge.
I don't think you'll need the extra 2x6 but since you've aleady did an awsome job on it, and if it'll help you sleep better, I'd say continue on and add it. It'll only make it stronger.
If you need more details, maybe an illustration, I know my explinations aren't the greatest, I'll try to draw what I explained out for you.
But this is lokking friggin awsome!
Can't wait to see the tank.
There will be a build coming... is there?
Well..
Get That Bad Boy Together and at the Least- Show Us Some Corals!!!;Woot
Last edited:
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
+1 on what @HawaiianReef said above. You'll fine especially if you sister another 2x6 on the front and back as mentioned above too.
Stand looks really nice. Are you planning on using anything to waterproof the inside of it? Also, after you sand it will you be staining/sealing or painting?
Stand looks really nice. Are you planning on using anything to waterproof the inside of it? Also, after you sand it will you be staining/sealing or painting?
Thanks guy, i plan on taking the easy route and just painting it black. Not sure what to use to water proof it. My last stand i used semi gloss paint and i found it tacky maybe i should use an eggshell finish?im still havent ordered the tank im shopping around, i wont get it till this summer prob, so im slowly working on the stand. You can see the metal stand for a 75g for comparisson. Im planni g of making my 1st sump out a 75g i got on craiglist
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
Some people use waterproof paint for the inside of their stand. Some use a product called Pond Shield. It's a little pricier than paint but does provide truly waterproof protection. Especially when coupled with caulking all the seams.
Good luck and keep us posted!
Captain Quint
Plank Owner of the Orca
Welcome to R2R. You're doing a great job.
+1 on the waterproofing inside as mentioned. I have found the waterproof caulking which is a paintable, primer and marine paint ( for boat hulls) work well.
+1 on the waterproofing inside as mentioned. I have found the waterproof caulking which is a paintable, primer and marine paint ( for boat hulls) work well.
scriptmonkey
Valuable Member
Anyone use Flex seal?
crusso1993
7500 Club Member
A little update, excuse the mess i been slowly making progress next step is sanding then paint. I will also be routing the tol and bottom trim as well as the doors. Like you can see i went too happy on the hole filler lol. I was thinking of starting with 80grits to get rid of the excess, or do you guys recommend i start with 120
I did, even siliconed the bottom floor at the walls for good measure.
