Stand design

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W1ngz

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Decision time this weekend on the 90 cube build I'm planning. I wanted more space underneath than any of the commercial stands have in the 30x30 footprint so I'm planning my own. I'm not a carpenter, or a structural engineer, and I've never built a stand, so I'm looking for some reassurance that this will hold. Any suggestions?

The frame will be made of 2x4s frames, with the legs held in place with supporting 2x4 screw strips. I'm not equipped to do anything so fancy as pocket screws, so this needs to be easy and simple enough to build in my kitchen, with minimal tools. The center legs are spaced specifically to support the 30" footprint of the tank.
stand frame.JPG

I want the front and sides completely removable to make working underneath a little more fun, so only the back and upper sides will be skinned with some 1/4" ply to help keep things from raking.
bracing.JPG

The bottom and top will be 3/4 ply. The top covered with rubber mat, and the bottom caulked and sealed so it can catch and hold almost 15gal of water if ever bad things happen. The right side will be walled off for electrical.
stand floors.JPG

With the extra surface area on top, I have a place to put my little frag grow-out tank. Underneath, I'll have space for pretty well any sump I choose. So far I'm thinking a Trigger Crystal or Ruby 30.
stand tanks.JPG

The front and side panels I hope to make look like the sides of an old crate to fit in with the industrial loft decor. They'll be held in place with magnetic push-latches so they pop on and off easily with a push along the top edge.
visual.JPG
 
Design looks solid. Built one using solid oak and oak plywood last year and the design is similar to yours, especially how you reinforced the corners. My biggest concern was to avoid problems and use dried lumber and plywood. Used waterproof glue. Lots of screws. And coated the entire underneath with marine spar varnish to avoid moisture problems. BRS sells sheet neoprene material that I used to make the bottom capable of holding water if the sump overflowed.
 
Sounds good looks good. I have two suggestions make the back put of 3/4 not the thin stuff. It would be ok for the bottom i guess. And even if you don't do pocket holes at least drill pilot holes. Lots of screws w/o pilot holes in dry wood mean lots of cracks down the road.
 

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