Stand pipe leak by question

[fishyfishyfishy]

I am going through the anxiety of my first sump and reef ready Aquarium. I have everything up and running however the stand pipe doesn’t seal into bulk head very well. I was told to silicone it in but I’m not sure if my biomedia can sit dry that long or the impact it will have on the system. I have tried pushing it down further but I cannot fit my arm that low past the telescope If I push the whole thing down and readjust height it just losses back up I’m not really sure what to do. Anyone have a solution? Thank you

 

[Irishman]

Drain your overflow with a shop vac or small pump. Undo the bulk head and glue it in. From the sounds of it, the bulk head must be a slipxslip or slip x npt

 

[Brett S]

I’m not totally sure what you’re referring to, but I think you’re saying that the standpipe doesn’t seal to the bulkhead inside the overflow. If that’s the case then you really shouldn’t need to worry about it. It’s OK if that joint is a little leaky... the standpipe technically isn’t even necessary, but using it will make the overflow much quieter.

If I misunderstood what you were saying, then try to clarify a bit more or send pics and I’m sure we can help get you going.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

+1 can you post a pic to be sure the portion you are connecting

 

[ca1ore]

Don’t solvent weld the standpipe into the bulkhead inside the overflow. It doesn’t have to seal. If it really bothers you, just wrap some Teflon tape around the pipe - overlap the end slightly to keep it from slipping. That will be an instant seal that is not permanent.

 

[cracker]

You could try & sand the stand pipe down a bit. Maybe it will slip a little deeper . Maybe some food safe silicone grease ? Please don't glue a stand pipe You may want to remove it in the future for many reasons.

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

I only have a 20g sump? Approx. “ previous owner cut a chunk from top” and the pump is tall needing about 10g. both overflows are 5gallons (only 1 leaks by) plus the approximate 5g that will continue to overflow from aquarium until below the box teeth . It’s cutting it a little to close for comfort. Really wish I could find a low profile pump as well.

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

Here is a picture of the sump please don’t judge the nasty I have only had this for 2 days and was bought like this. It will be cleaned up very soon. I am very new to having a sump and don’t know much, so if you see anything wrong please let me know.

 

[RJinPV]

It looks like someone cut a wide notch in the side of that sump. How many extra gallons of capacity could you get if you cemented a repair on that notch, assuming you don't need it?

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

It looks like someone cut a wide notch in the side of that sump. How many extra gallons of capacity could you get if you cemented a repair on that notch, assuming you don't need it?

I would guess 5 gallons, that is on my to do list which seems to grow by the day lol I have the acrylic to do it just waiting on the silicone

 

[Brett S]

I have the acrylic to do it just waiting on the silicone

You don’t want to use silicone to repair an acrylic tank... silicone doesn’t stick well to acrylic and the joint will likely fail. You want to use a solvent like weld on.

 

[RJinPV]

Not sure silicone works on acrylic. Maybe someone here knows for sure. For safety I would out the patch on the inside so if the water level gets that high it's pressure will compress the bondline and keep it in place

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

I am aware now I went about the whole sump thing the wrong way and after a lot of thought after I make the repair should I shop vac the water from overflow and sump then fill sump3/4 full turn it back on and see if that allows for the proper fill level. In my mind the initial amount in sump from start will be the off result. Am I correct? I hope that makes sense

 

[Erica-Renee]

As said above the over flow stand pipe is exactly as it should be ... That sump.. Bio balls and ... Well

The bio balls is not ideal situation, Thou we all have tried out luck with trickle filtration in the past. In the long run your better Removing that bio ball filter or converting to a wet media area, either Live rock rubble (my choice) or some other newly found expensive media block because they claim its better because it cost me..

Good Luck

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

As said above the over flow stand pipe is exactly as it should be ... That sump.. Bio balls and ... Well

The bio balls is not ideal situation, Thou we all have tried out luck with trickle filtration in the past. In the long run your better Removing that bio ball filter or converting to a wet media area, either Live rock rubble (my choice) or some other newly found expensive media block because they claim its better because it cost me..

Good Luck

I agree completely I bought this precycled aquarium from someone that need the money more than the system. I had a very old (15 year) substrate in 125 causing cyano bloom so figured now was a good time to upgrade. however it’s a big step above the canisters I had on my 125 before converting. I wanted to keep a close eye on everything before changing it. I was considering live rock and an algae perhaps ceramic rings (I will need to research deep before choosing those)in place of those balls. I greatly appreciate your advice as I have stated I have no clue about sumps only the knowledge of needed mechanical, biological and prophylactic chemical media.

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

my current stock is pretty low so I think I have plenty time to find out exactly what will be best. I just want to research and get advice so I’m not regretting the decisions I make later on.

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

I think I am going to order a marine pure block I still have 8” above bio balls so it should fit perfectly and accumulate bacteria in a few months so I can gradually remove the balls.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Hello

A couple things I noted, not sure if already said.

I did see someone mentioned the standpipe with the reducer that is inside the overflow should seated inside the bulkhead like you have. This is the important part. Someone mentioned technically the pipe is not needed at all. While true in a sense, without that stand pipe you are talking about a big difference in the amount of water draining into the sump. With the pipe in the overflow only the water at the top of the pipe drains, versus the whole overflow if it did not have a pipe since it would drain the whole overflow.. The pipe keeps that entire overflow from dumping into the sump. This is also why it should not leak. Over a long period of time the leak will allow the same entire overflow to drain.

I am wondering exactly what is leaking. Is water leaking from the bulkhead into the stand?

Also, not ideal to run both drains into a t into 1. If it is a herbie style I would recommend running the siphon drain to the tower and the emergency line direct into the sump. This way drains are separate. Should the clog be in the t area then the emergency drain is useless.

I would guess that sump can work as long as you get the water level right. There should be enough room in tank in case the drain is blocked to hold all the water to the sump. And enough room in the sump to hold the overflow should the pump fail. (This is why you need those stand pipes inserted into the bulk head.

Hope this help

 

[fishyfishyfishy]

The reducer leaks into drain not stand it would take hours to leak down however. There are 2 separate overflow boxes connected via a main branch under tank to sump inlet. I’m not sure what you mean by emergency line. I believe I have the sump level correct however I’m not 100% the tank can hold the amount of water in the sump but I doubt I will ever have both overflows blocked at once perhaps the drain line can so I should plumb a second drain line?