Stand question, sistered 1x?

[Poseidon]

Hello, I made a stand a few years ago using sistered 1x4 cedar, I'm still using it today.

My question is about different species of wood. Alder is very similar to my laminate floor, I'm hoping that I can make a stand for my new tank with this same design. My new tank is a 150, measures 48 long, 30 wide, by 24 tall.

Here are a few pictures of the current stand:







Will this design be good for the new 150? Will the 4ft span require a 1x6 sistered on top? I would prefer to keep the open look. (Sump is in the basement.)

All the 1x's were glued and screwed together before assembling the stand. (The top was sanded flat as well.)

Any input on different hardwood species, my local Menard's has a variety of surfaced 4 sides woods that I think would make a great starting point.

First 2 pictures were dry fit, no glue or screws on the joints.

Thank you, Mike

 

[cromag27 Verified Sponsor]

I would just use 3/4" plywood.

 

[Poseidon]

I don't think a plywood stand would look like what I'm going for. I understand there are many other options, including ply, aluminum, steel, and even concrete.

Thanks for the reply though.

 

[Jofiel]

I'd be a bit concerned about lateral loads. Not a ton of shear value in that design, so using small size members of woods that have low bending strength seems a bit sketchy.

http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/3_Wood_Strength/3_Wood_Strength.htm

 

[jeff williams]

Use oak if you wanna use 1x. Also make your legs with 2x4s put the legs inside the top and bottom frame then use your 1x as jack studs between the top and bottom this is basically the way you have it but your legs are flush with the top and bottom frame only one of your side boards is supported by your jack stud

 

[don_chuwish]

A 2x6 is supposed to be good enough for a 4' span, so two 1x6 laminated should be good too. To save some money on nice wood and add a little stability (less likely to warp over time) you could use 3/4" ply for the hidden back half of the laminated beam.
There's so many ways to do this it's crazy, it all depends on what level of carpentry you are comfortable with and the tools available. Building a stand that is strong enough is easy. The 'RocketEngineer' designs are great because they are strong enough, use cheap lumber and are easy. You can skin them any way you like.
For my 4' span I decided to make a laminated beam out of two 2x6s. Milled down a bit to be perfectly straight flat & square.
That's the advantage of good plywood - it's stable and flat. If you can cut it straight, it's straight.

 

[donnievaz]

I don't know about the structural integrity of your design but as a building material Alder is plenty strong if you want to use it.

 

[Poseidon]

Thank you for the replies, saving money on the stand is a good thing. I looked at Hickory last night, I bought a 1x2 to try various stains on. Hickory is super dense, even heavier than oak to my hand.

As for tools, I think I have those covered, at least the basics.

Next question, I'd like to go much taller with my stand, with a footprint of 48x30 does anyone see a stability problem with a 40" tall stand?

 

[SteveSTL]

40" will make it very top heavy. I would go with at least 2 shelves which will be built in and part of the structure to control front to back sway. (The plywood piece on the back will control side to side.) Hickory is a good but it does have some give - that's why it's used for tool handles, bows, wheel spokes, golf shafts, etc. Oak may be a better choice because it doesn't have much give to it.

One downside, you can't use the oak scraps for BBQ unless you're doing something really gamey. Hickory works with pork, poultry and beef.

 

[Poseidon]

Thanks for the tips Steve! Hickory matches the grain on the floor well, that's why I'm so interested in it.

 

[SteveSTL]

I did some more research on Hickory because I don't really work with it and so am not very familiar with its properties. There are 7 species that are considered hickory but at least 3 are from the Pecan family and the wood isn't as strong as real hickory (mockernut, shagbark, etc.) Depending on where you're getting it (Menards, vs local mill), there's no way to know what you're getting. Menards could be anything, local mill will be real hickory as pecans don't grow as far north as Michigan.

My main concern would be the legs bowing out and only held in place by mechanical fasteners. Any way to change your plan and put a core of red oak sandwiched between 2 layers of hickory? That would give you the rigidity you won't get from hickory but still give you the look your after. Also, having a hickory "cap" over the 3 layer sandwich would give more strength as the grain is running at 90 degrees to the other grain and will me many times stronger.