Standpipes loose in bulkhead

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jmatt

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I purchased 2 of these 1.25" Inland Seas bulkheads for my Herbie overflow. However, unlike all of my other PVC slip fittings, the pipes don't 'snug' into these -- which could be understandable since they're somewhat flat, I suppose. The Schedule 80 standpipes fit in loosely... like, there's a tiny bit of wiggle room.

Cause for concern -- or is this standard for bulkheads? It seems close enough that I'm sure if I applied a goodly amount of Weld-On it'd fill and fuse the gaps but I don't want to take action until I'm sure.

Anyone else ever experience something like this?
 
Please do NOT glue or silicone or weld on the pipes Inside your overflow. This will just give you headaches down the road.

That loose fitting is not normal but a few flat wraps of Teflon tape should have it snugged in just fine
Just curious, why is attaching it permanently an issue? Do you ever dismantle it for cleaning or some other reason?

Also, how close can the top of the emergency standpipe be to the height of the overflow weir? I've read that you want a fair amount of differential between the main and the emergency since the extra volume makes it easier to dial in and balance the flow. I am presently planning on having the top of the emergency standpipe be within .5" of the bottom of the weir.
 
Just curious, why is attaching it permanently an issue? Do you ever dismantle it for cleaning or some other reason?

Also, how close can the top of the emergency standpipe be to the height of the overflow weir? I've read that you want a fair amount of differential between the main and the emergency since the extra volume makes it easier to dial in and balance the flow. I am presently planning on having the top of the emergency standpipe be within .5" of the bottom of the weir.
Yes that's exactly why.

I had to remove my full siphon line first thing this morning to clear an obstruction. A fish had free willied and was nose first in the candy cane and wouldn't back itself out. Imagine if that pipe was glued in..

Besides cleaning, you likely will have to mess with the heights a bit to get it tuned in perfectly.
 
Yes that's exactly why.

I had to remove my full siphon line first thing this morning to clear an obstruction. A fish had free willied and was nose first in the candy cane and wouldn't back itself out. Imagine if that pipe was glued in..

Besides cleaning, you likely will have to mess with the heights a bit to get it tuned in perfectly.
I have watched a million YT videos about setting up and starting a tank, and I never encountered anything about not gluing the standpipes. Sure am glad I asked.
 
Also, how close can the top of the emergency standpipe be to the height of the overflow weir? I've read that you want a fair amount of differential between the main and the emergency since the extra volume makes it easier to dial in and balance the flow. I am presently planning on having the top of the emergency standpipe be within .5" of the bottom of the weir.
What kind of overflow do you have? That changes things.

The height of the e-drain sets the height of your water level within the overflow box on a Herbie. This is where trial and error come into place and possibly needing to remove the pipe for mods. If the top of your e drain is too low, you'll likely get splashing and noise.

I set my height, based on sound. When the water is running through the weirs into the overflow box silently.

You want to very very close your gate valve until a Trickle of water is running over it constantly. When tuning it, keep in mind the full-siphon line needs to be completely purged of any air, Before you're making final settings.

If you dial it in before fully purging the full siphon, your settings won't hold.
 

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