Stands

[David Abbott]

"I feel like a high school kid studying for a test on brain surgery" Your post completely cleared up any questions I had!!! Last day or so, I ran across a video from "Exotic Marine Systems" very visible look as to how a bean animal overflow works. very simple design. So.....in theory I can maintain my "STEAMPUNK" look by changing the overflow box from wall 2 wall, and have a "bean animal system" on each 24" side of the DT. Losing 13" of weir. Giving the DT a more open look, instead of the wall 2 wall across the back of display. THANKS REEFER, I think I've just passed the first test. As acrylic doesn't bond very well to glass could I silicon a glass gusset on the bottom of each end of the 24" overflow to give it support.

 

[David Abbott]

Okay, on the new design your DT level should be designed to go no lower than the bottom of the comb slots of the weir. So once you decide on a pump you will know what size plumbing to use. From there get the required bulkheads for that size pipe. To make it even better, you could put a 90 degree elbow pointed down towards the bottom of the weir from the bulkhead to minimize any slurping. Now make the weir deep enough to have the bulkhead and elbow completely below the bottom of the comb slots. On the plumbing downstream of the bulkhead, preferably just above the sump water level, install a gate valve to regulate the flow to the sump. You will also want an emergency drain stand pipe installed above the typical water level of the DT in case anything clogs the other pipe. I'll bet you've already got this figured out since you've read up on all the designs.

Hey Reefer, so the plumbing size is dictated by the pump, If I plan on a 1000 gph should I use or 1 1/4" for the drain, and 1" for the returns???. This would allow me to order the glass and know the size of the holes needed

 

[Goodair]

Some questions:
-You plan on bean overflow?
-Custom overflow or a manufactured?
-1000 GPH is before headloss, what pump are you looking at and how high will the pump be from the return nozzle?


whatever amount of water you have leaving the tank is the same as the amount going back in, so you ideally want similar cross sectional area in the pipes.

 

[David Abbott]

Some questions:
-You plan on bean overflow?
-Custom overflow or a manufactured?
-1000 GPH is before headloss, what pump are you looking at and how high will the pump be from the return nozzle?


whatever amount of water you have leaving the tank is the same as the amount going back in, so you ideally want similar cross sectional area in the pipes.

Yes a bean animal overflow, it will be a custom overflow, pump is aprox. 65" below the rim off display tank rim. I haven't decided on a specific brand of pump yet, but a 1000 gph should be sufficient.??? for my 170 gal. tank

 

[Goodair]

1000 gph will be more like 600ish after losses (this is a ballpark number but just to show an idea), different pumps have different specs. With that in mind, it seems like a good size to start.

Going with 2 smaller pumps that get you a similar GPH would be safer, and really wouldn't cost all that much more, just nice to have 1 keep running incase the other one goes down. Doing this, you will need to run 2 return lines back to the tank.

As for the overflow, make sure its rated to go along with your pump GPH. The weir is what will affect that but idk not sure how they calculate it. The size of the main drain will also affect it, you want it to be able to drain most of the water, leaving little water to go down the 2nd pipe. Usually it says in the specs, but going custom, maybe someone would have a better idea. Will you be making the overflow or is that tank maker doing that along with the drilling?

Lastly its just sizing your pipes once all that is figured out.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

+1 on what Goodair said, especially about the two pumps. Are you making your own weirs?

 

[David Abbott]

Okay, on the new design your DT level should be designed to go no lower than the bottom of the comb slots of the weir. So once you decide on a pump you will know what size plumbing to use. From there get the required bulkheads for that size pipe. To make it even better, you could put a 90 degree elbow pointed down towards the bottom of the weir from the bulkhead to minimize any slurping. Now make the weir deep enough to have the bulkhead and elbow completely below the bottom of the comb slots. On the plumbing downstream of the bulkhead, preferably just above the sump water level, install a gate valve to regulate the flow to the sump. You will also want an emergency drain stand pipe installed above the typical water level of the DT in case anything clogs the other pipe. I'll bet you've already got this figured out since you've read up on all the designs.

1000 gph will be more like 600ish after losses (this is a ballpark number but just to show an idea), different pumps have different specs. With that in mind, it seems like a good size to start.

Going with 2 smaller pumps that get you a similar GPH would be safer, and really wouldn't cost all that much more, just nice to have 1 keep running incase the other one goes down. Doing this, you will need to run 2 return lines back to the tank.

As for the overflow, make sure its rated to go along with your pump GPH. The weir is what will affect that but idk not sure how they calculate it. The size of the main drain will also affect it, you want it to be able to drain most of the water, leaving little water to go down the 2nd pipe. Usually it says in the specs, but going custom, maybe someone would have a better idea. Will you be making the overflow or is that tank maker doing that along with the drilling?

Lastly its just sizing your pipes once all that is figured out.

 

[David Abbott]

Good idea about 2 pumps. I've been searching for a 5/600 gph pump that will accommodate a 1 1/4" return pipe, can't seem to find one. Can you recommend a pump that will carry 1 1/4" water up about 6'

 

[Goodair]

That i cannot recomend sorry, really just need to look at reviews and pick pumps that fit your budget.

 

[Goodair]

This is the chart I used when doing my plumbing. Multiple sites use the same one. 1" pipe ( with a gate valve to adjust your main overflow only, other 2 go stright to your sump) is enough for your overflow pipes, either 1" for return, 2 3/4" if your going 2 pumps. Best to use whatever size pipe the pump manufacturers recommend but most likely it will be in that range.

 

[David Abbott]

This is the chart I used when doing my plumbing. Multiple sites use the same one. 1" pipe ( with a gate valve to adjust your main overflow only, other 2 go stright to your sump) is enough for your overflow pipes, either 1" for return, 2 3/4" if your going 2 pumps. Best to use whatever size pipe the pump manufacturers recommend but most likely it will be in that range.

Main overflow meaning the primary drain pipe in the "bean animal overflow box". OK very good info Goodair thanks

 

[Goodair]

Yup, that's the one you will be adjusting. The other 2 you want unimpeded since they shouldn't be getting much water unless your primary drain gets cloged.

 

[David Abbott]

Yup, that's the one you will be adjusting. The other 2 you want unimpeded since they shouldn't be getting much water unless your primary drain gets cloged.

That's what i thought. When you say 1" pipe is that inside or outside dem's

 

[Goodair]

interior

 

[David Abbott]

interior

OK thanks Goodair

 

[David Abbott]

interior

Good Morning Goodair, after some consideration on weather to put the "bean animal overflow" inside the display I have decided to locate them on the outside at each end of the tank. Using 2 pumps in the sump for the returns. I've attached a drawing of my plan, would appreciate your comments. Thanks David

 

[Goodair]

Ok, so your doing a ghost overflow. Just to make sure I read that right your adding 1 over flow boxes on both ends, making a total of 2 over flow boxes?

 

[David Abbott]

Ok, so your doing a ghost overflow. Just to make sure I read that right your adding 1 over flow boxes on both ends, making a total of 2 over flow boxes?

Yes

 

[Goodair]

A 24x8x10, that's about 70 pounds of water it will hold, that's pretty big. You should look into prebuilt overflows boxes and build something similar, like a 16x4x8. Your main drain will be about 6 inches under the water line, secondary will be slighly under the water line, and the 3rd slightly above the 2nd. Also use tinted glass/acrylic so light doesn't go through.

Personally, I'd rather just buy one already made unless you got tools to cut glass/acrylic. They will have a weir in the front, a template on where to make the holes and its less of a headache.

 

[Reefer Reboot]

One other detail I thought I'd mention to you in the name of safety. It won't matter how big or how many emergency overflow pipes you have in the overflow boxes if the bulkheads from the DT to the overflow boxes gets clogged. Just thought I'd put that out there for you to think about.