Started treating bryopsis last night

ahiggins

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Hello all, I'm going to catalog what I am seeing with a peroxide treatment for my paly frags that have bryopsis on them. I have two identical frags of pink zipper palys so I will be treating one but not the other...yet.

Day 1: (technically night)
Took the frag out and pipetted about 3 mils of 3% hydrogen peroxide onto the base of the entire frag. This got onto the paly heads which fizzed and freaked me out so I dipped in aquarium water after only 30 seconds of treatment. I swished it around in that water for about 5 minutes and noticed some of the paly skin was turning a lighter color so I kept swishing away. Then I put them in front of a power head for a few minutes inside the tank. Then they were set back where they normally are in the tank.
I noticed that some of the bryopsis was turning brown when I swished in a cup of tank water but not all of it was.
When I woke up this morning, the palys looked normal. Not open yet because the lights weren't on.
Upon inspection..I have little tufts of bryopsis sprouting in different parts of the tank. So I may need to do a whole tank treatment...

I'll keep updating as I go.
Any tips on making this easier for palys or how you have done a tank treatment, please share.
 
I performed the same procedure due to the same issue. I had byropsis growing on a few paly frag plugs, spot treated them with peroxide out of the tank, rinsed with tank water, and replaced. I had to do this a few times, but eventually it nuked the stuff. I did get some peroxide on a few polyps and yep; they close up and fizz. I just placed mine back on the rack and let them alone. They eventually opened back up, looking just as good.
 
The best method to help the h2o2 off the coral frag being treated..
As you remove the frag with the unwanted algae remove it from the tank in an upright condition allowing the algae to hang over the plug.
Take a pipette and apply the h2o2 directly to the algae allowing the excess to flow downward.
Wait 3 to 4 minutes then put back into the tank.
The algae will be dead or gone within 72 hours
 
I pulled the frag upside down which was why I squired the stuff everywhere lol Thats a really good game plan :)
 
Day 2:
I noted that the palys seemed to be ok and opened up so I decided to treat again. Still saw bryopsis filiments.
Did a second treatment.

Day 3:
Palys did not open up during the day so I decided to take a water sample to the LFS. Everything was perfect. Asked the owner about raising mag as a way to treat it rather than H2O2.
My mag reading was 1450. I will be slowly raising it to >1600. Last night I raised by 50 ppm. No adverse effects. I think I will continue to raise mag instead of dosing peroxide.
 
Day 2:
I noted that the palys seemed to be ok and opened up so I decided to treat again. Still saw bryopsis filiments.
Did a second treatment.

Day 3:
Palys did not open up during the day so I decided to take a water sample to the LFS. Everything was perfect. Asked the owner about raising mag as a way to treat it rather than H2O2.
My mag reading was 1450. I will be slowly raising it to >1600. Last night I raised by 50 ppm. No adverse effects. I think I will continue to raise mag instead of dosing peroxide.
With deep searching people may find that raising magnesium is ineffective
In the past techM was successful at reducing bryopsis until they changed their product ingredients.
So that is where the story of raising magnesium came from.
I would not recommend this approach of raising magnesium to fight bryopsis.
 
really....Ive heard that new vs old as well but I thought I have the old.
Do you have more info on this?
I also heard that keeping higher mag reading will help coraline algae and grow lps faster.
 
Day 4:
Abandoned peroxide 100%. Only 1 of my 15 polyps of pink zippers have opened again.
Did a 10% water change and set the new water and tank water to 1510 magnesium. So far no change but I'll keep everyone updated.
No effects to any other inverts/softies/lps/fish. (I do not have sps)
 
Day 6:
Magnesium at 1530. No change in bryopsis color or how much is still in my tank. I have been skimming wet all week.
I upped the mag levels to 1560.

Edit: My acans are growing like weeds! 6 new heads since last week!
 
Treating the water for a benthic anchored plant is your problem:

No test rock established


Missing rasping of surfaces which cures bryopsis always. Adding anything to the water without establishing proof on a test rock is what won't work well. Could get lucky though. If your tank was mine it would be algae free by Friday for sure, good to know that kind of control is well documented as an option

If you use the rasp technique and a test rock, easy fix. Hard work for having hesitated, but an easy fix still. Treating the water for a non water borne invader won't work as well, but lucks do occur we can see in threads.

Any bryopsis tank is made that way on purpose having opted out of the certain fix...the rasp and treat always works just to add options. By removing the holdfast, growback stops.
 
See thread kicked up today right under this one, good pics inside
 
Can someone link the thread regarding this "rasping" and briopsis? Ive had my mag around 1800 for well over a month and the briopsis seems to thrive. I need a fix and was thinking about dosing peroxide
 
http://reef2reef.com/threads/5-new-...be-cured-using-a-rasp-and-a-test-rock.257862/

The whole point of it is to make a test rock comply first before whole tank action. Bryopsis is a required hitchhiker, once eradicated it cannot come back until reimported on purpose again via non quarantine

So the point of rasping is it scrapes out the anchors for the plant, and the peroxide is applied to the clean surface not the plant-- fully opposite of all current methods that leaves holdfasts in place and burns the whole tank (nontargets too)

The test rock determines grow back potential, how deep we have to rasp to get free of the plant, then if it works the whole tank is done via rock removal

Rasping is to prevent takeover when growths begin but 99% of the time that opportunity is missed and a whole tank needs work. 99% of posters say they cannot remove rock but that isn't the case, all tanks can have rock removed depending on how fed up someone is with the invasion. Rasping works because it rids all matter of the invasion from the tank. Just as my tank cannot get invaded by macro algae, or brush algae, or dinos because I'm not importing them, one can make bryopsis disappear permanently just the same with hard work. Most will not do the rasping method when they see work is involved, they do water actions and nutrient controls instead but those don't work as well, they're just free of work

I personally would use 35% peroxide as the rasp cleanup, why waste time with 3%. Study the dangers of 35% before buying it
 
chestnut cowries worked so I never went back to dosing mag.
I bought 2 for my 25 and I havent seen a patch since. So they either keep it manageable or its gone.
 

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