Starting with dry rock

[Triggerhappy77]

So I've started a 32 gallon biocube and have sand, dry rock(No dead material), and water. How should I start the cycle? I know I need an ammonia source before I can add my bottle of bacteria to feed on the ammonia. But what's best way to get it all goin. All I got now is wet rocks. Please help

 

[Kershaw]

Well your tank will start a cycle with dry rock. Just will take a little time. You can add pure uncented ammonia or some fish food. Speed up cycle start.

 

[Triggerhappy77]

Well your tank will start a cycle with dry rock. Just will take a little time. You can add pure uncented ammonia or some fish food. Speed up cycle start.

The dry rock I purchased is billed as completely free of dead stuff. Are you sure it will cycle on its own without the suggested fish food or ammonia? Time is no issue but do you have a guess at timing for the cycle?

 

[lion king]

You are right, you need to add live bacteria; a good source is to use biospira, it has worked well for me and many others. Then you add an ammonia source, old school is to feed the tank with fish food; I've found it better to use bottled ammonia like Dr Tim's ammonium chloride. If you go to Dr, Tim's website and follow his instructions EXACTLY, you will be cycled in 2-3 weeks tops. The reason I say EXACTLY is because if you listen to some some of the other variants, you will have frustration. I've done several tanks this way and it's so easy, controlled, and clean; there really is no reason to do it any other way.

 

[Triggerhappy77]

You are right, you need to add live bacteria; a good source is to use biospira, it has worked well for me and many others. Then you add an ammonia source, old school is to feed the tank with fish food; I've found it better to use bottled ammonia like Dr Tim's ammonium chloride. If you go to Dr, Tim's website and follow his instructions EXACTLY, you will be cycled in 2-3 weeks tops. The reason I say EXACTLY is because if you listen to some some of the other variants, you will have frustration. I've done several tanks this way and it's so easy, controlled, and clean; there really is no reason to do it any other way.

Thank you! I'm a bit... particular. So clean is a word I love to hear in this hobby. I will do that.

 

[Jisko]

When I started my new tank a few months back I started with just dry rock and water from a 2 year old tank. I also ghost fed everyday and ran all of my equipment.

Here is what the tank looks like now as the diatom phase is starting to go away. Ignore the mass amount of snails haha I have a crazy high nutrient tank that I let snails live in and when I need them I take out what i need for other tanks

photo is very goldish because of the crappy phone camera but believe me it looks way different haha this is a 29g and the white and purple circles on top of the rock is a frag plug with a weird critter i found plus a rock im using to kinda seed with

 

[redfishbluefish]

Dry rock also needs to be cured. You can do curing and cycling concurrently, but I wouldn't be in any rush to dump one of the nitrifying bottled bacteria in there until you see what the cure is going to produce. If loaded with nitrates and phosphates, I'd want to do a couple water changes before jump starting the cycle. Get the rock in saltwater with a little flow to get the cure going. No lights or heater required (assuming in room temperature building.....not in a freezing garage.)

 

[Jisko]

Dry rock also needs to be cured. You can do curing and cycling concurrently, but I wouldn't be in any rush to dump one of the nitrifying bottled bacteria in there until you see what the cure is going to produce. If loaded with nitrates and phosphates, I'd want to do a couple water changes before jump starting the cycle. Get the rock in saltwater with a little flow to get the cure going. No lights or heater required (assuming in room temperature building.....not in a freezing garage.)

I second this I cured my rock for a month before it was even used. I stored it in a giant tote then after a month I took what i needed built my scape and began the cycle

 

[scoopsthedog]

So my experience with Dry Rock and Dry Sand in 50G. Put in and dropped in Dr Tims. After around 4 weeks tested and had 0's. After another couple weeks (6 week mark) dropped Live Rock in from my 25G that was pest free and had been in there for 8 months. That really seemed to do the trick as I've had a huge pod explosion and now 5 months in a clean algae and pest free tank.

If you can talk someone you trust into letting you have a piece of their LR post cycle I highly recommend it. I had zero die off and I didn't have a mini cycle after adding vs starting a tank with live rock when everything alive actually dies off (except the stuff no one wants).

 

[Triggerhappy77]

Dry rock also needs to be cured. You can do curing and cycling concurrently, but I wouldn't be in any rush to dump one of the nitrifying bottled bacteria in there until you see what the cure is going to produce. If loaded with nitrates and phosphates, I'd want to do a couple water changes before jump starting the cycle. Get the rock in saltwater with a little flow to get the cure going. No lights or heater required (assuming in room temperature building.....not in a freezing garage.)

Cure for a couple weeks? A month?

 

[Leaellynasaura]

You will know the cure is done when ammonia and nitrite readings drop to zero.

 

[michaelrp]

I used ammonia from ace hardware. Best way to test whether the ammonia is pure is to shake the bottle. If it foams up it means there are additives for cleaning. If it does not foam than it is pure ammonia. Add 5 ml to the tank after adding bioaspira. Test for ammonia with a test kit and write it down. Test everyday until it reaches zero. Than add 2 ml. Do the same thing. Than 1 ml. At this point check nitrites. You want to be able to see ammonia turn into nitrites than into nitrates. When you start seeing nitrates and no ammonia and nitrites after adding ammonia 24 hours afterwards Han your tank is cycled.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Cure for a couple weeks? A month?

Can't put a date to it....depends on how "dirty" the rock is. You test for nitrates and phosphates that are leaching from the rock. When they get high you do water changes. Once they are no longer climbing and stay low after a water change you're cure is done. Typically 1 - 2 months. Now the good news......the cycle is most likely done as well.

You will know the cure is done when ammonia and nitrite readings drop to zero.

You're confusing cure with cycle. The cycle is done when ammonia and nitrite are zero and nitrate is present.

 

[Triggerhappy77]

Can't put a date to it....depends on how "dirty" the rock is. You test for nitrates and phosphates that are leaching from the rock. When they get high you do water changes. Once they are no longer climbing and stay low after a water change you're cure is done. Typically 1 - 2 months. Now the good news......the cycle is most likely done as well.



You're confusing cure with cycle. The cycle is done when ammonia and nitrite are zero and nitrate is present.

I'm sorry it just confused me that reefcleaners.org says that the rock does not need to be cured. It's throwing me off.

 

[redfishbluefish]

Yes, reefcleaners does claim to be pre-cured. I haven't used it but the reviews I've seen seem to be very promising....so now you're only looking at a cycle. I'd still take a peek at phosphates after about a week or so just to verify that it's cured.

 

[cracker]

Wouldn't hurt to soak it for a week or so & test for PO4. Just for peace of mind. I personally have had issues with dry base.

 

[Triggerhappy77]

Yes, reefcleaners does claim to be pre-cured. I haven't used it but the reviews I've seen seem to be very promising....so now you're only looking at a cycle. I'd still take a peek at phosphates after about a week or so just to verify that it's cured.

Gotcha. Thank you all for the thought and consideration. I will get a phosphate test kit as well. Got way more money invested in testing equipment than I thought was possible. Haha

 

[michaelrp]

Gotcha. Thank you all for the thought and consideration. I will get a phosphate test kit as well. Got way more money invested in testing equipment than I thought was possible. Haha

Your won't test as much once your tanks aged. Starting is the most annoying part. I usually check before and after a water change and mainly PH, alkalinity, calcium, and mag. I don't check for waste anymore until something seems off or something does while I'm at work. Which has only happened once which was my pistol shrimp getting tired of he cleaners shrimps ****.

 

[Triggerhappy77]

So. My lfs gifted me a fish for the cycle in my tank. Loaded question but should I add my bacteria now or wait for the ammonia reading to be measurable? They need the ammonia to feed on, correct?