Steel tank stand

[Plata01]

Hello everyone. So I have 150 gallon tank with a wood stand. I didn't invest much into making it nice since I plan on replacng it with a steel stand. I am planning on using 2x6 steel on each corner. I know it will be heavy and overkill but I want to use the 6 inches so that I can put all my controls on one level while the wires are underneath the controls hidden either by a piece of plywood or plexiglass. The stand will be powder coated.

My question is if I should go with 2x2 everywhere else to include braces or 2x3 where the tank sits and then 2x2 everywhere else? Hope this makes sense.

 

[cracker]

I'm not a structural engineer or even close but I'd think 2 by 2 would be ok throughout . I'd like to know as well.

 

[Plata01]

Hopefully I get some inputs. I do think 2x2 everywhere else besides the 2x6 will be more than enough.

 

[ironworker]

Are you wanting angle iron or steel tube. 2×2×1/4 in either should be way more than enough. Although if its angle i would ad a verticle center brace.i plan on doing the same but i will definitely be using tube steel. Also understan its all sold by weight. And 2x6 is alot heavier and more expensive. Use a 7018 welding rid 3/32 diameter for your welds. Grind a bevel at each joint before welding so you can grind it smooth for a nice finish.

 

[User1]

Preference - I am not a welder nor structural engineer Nor did I stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. With that out of the way with my 240 gallon upgrade that is underway I had the tank builder make me one. They used 2" x 2" steel and powder coated it. Welds look pretty good to me and it didn't have any form of movement during the leak check. It is pretty solid. The way I see it is that I could have made a solid stand out of wood but when I compared the price it was pretty much a wash. I have left over wood from a few projects and will skin the stand to match the canopy I'm making and attach it using earth magnets.

 

[Pivitol]

I built my stand with 2x2 11ga steel square tube, it's rock solid. Tank is a 200gal.

 

[mkj]

why not use 8020 aluminum. lots of DIY tank stands are build using it. Extremely strong, way lighter, saves space. able to adjust shelving heights easily, no welding needed. It's what the cool kids use.

 

[Plata01]

Thanks for the replies everyone and sorry for not responding but I had a pipe burst at home and I have new busy working on that. I was looking at using aluminum but my father doesn't have the equipment for it, maybe I will go see how much it costs to get it built around here. If I do go with steel, I plan on using steel tubing. I don't trust the angle steel that much. Ironworker, the 2x6 is definitely much heavier and more expensive. I might end up also using 2x2 or 2x3 on the corners and them welding flat steel pieces to that so that i get the 6 inch depth for my equipment and the **** load of wires that come with it. It will practically serve the same purpose but much lighter and cheaper.

 

[ironworker]

why not use 8020 aluminum. lots of DIY tank stands are build using it. Extremely strong, way lighter, saves space. able to adjust shelving heights easily, no welding needed. It's what the cool kids use.

Cause that stuff is way more expensive. Lpl

 

[mkj]

Not expensive at all. 8020 costs 20-30 cents an inch depending on series. Connections are where costs can go up if you want fancy ones but basic connections work just as well.

To cut 8020 all you need is an angle grinder and a cutting disk $2. Good chance your pops already has angle grinder. Next to a hammer its the most useful tool in the shed. If you don't have a steady hand, make cuts a 1/16 long and then switch cutting disk to a grinding disk and grind length down for perfect size/corners. Each cut should take around 30 seconds once practiced. Also can use a wet saw or even a table saw with correct blade if don't have an angle grinder. Could even use a hacksaw if feeling strong but difficult to make cuts perfect. Most stores will also make cutes for a $1 but very easy to cut yourself.

No centre brace needed under 48". 60" will need one if using 10 series. I usually use 10 series for anything under 60". It will hold thousands of pounds. Longer tanks use 15/20 series. A 60" box stand should be under $200 all in (8020, connections, tops, skin). Can double that though if using fancier connections and tops. Connections is where someone can go crazy and spend lots but basic is around 25 cents a connection. A basic box stand needs 24 basic connections. For a better explanation on types of connections go to a 8020 site. Way too hard to explain all options here. The best part about using t-slot is adjustability and increased space under tank.

If in the future you get a larger tank, all you need is to buy 8020. You will already have all/most connections. If you downsizer tank, you don't need to buy anything just cut 8020 to new size and reuse. So future stand will cost half or nothing depending on what future tank is. I've used the same connections and some of the 8020 now on three different tanks. Every time my tank has gotten larger but my new stand cost under $100.

 

[ironworker]

Not expensive at all. 8020 costs 20-30 cents an inch depending on series. Connections are where costs can go up if you want fancy ones but basic connections work just as well.

To cut 8020 all you need is an angle grinder and a cutting disk $2. Good chance your pops already has angle grinder. Next to a hammer its the most useful tool in the shed. If you don't have a steady hand, make cuts a 1/16 long and then switch cutting disk to a grinding disk and grind length down for perfect size/corners. Each cut should take around 30 seconds once practiced. Also can use a wet saw or even a table saw with correct blade if don't have an angle grinder. Could even use a hacksaw if feeling strong but difficult to make cuts perfect. Most stores will also make cutes for a $1 but very easy to cut yourself.

No centre brace needed under 48". 60" will need one if using 10 series. I usually use 10 series for anything under 60". It will hold thousands of pounds. Longer tanks use 15/20 series. A 60" box stand should be under $200 all in (8020, connections, tops, skin). Can double that though if using fancier connections and tops. Connections is where someone can go crazy and spend lots but basic is around 25 cents a connection. A basic box stand needs 24 basic connections. For a better explanation on types of connections go to a 8020 site. Way too hard to explain all options here. The best part about using t-slot is adjustability and increased space under tank.

If in the future you get a larger tank, all you need is to buy 8020. You will already have all/most connections. If you downsizer tank, you don't need to buy anything just cut 8020 to new size and reuse. So future stand will cost half or nothing depending on what future tank is. I've used the same connections and some of the 8020 now on three different tanks. Every time my tank has gotten larger but my new stand cost under $100.

Where are you buying 8020 that cheap.

 

[mkj]

Where are you buying 8020 that cheap.

https://8020.net : 23 cents an inch for 10 series. only 16 cents for 20 series if you want metric.

 

[pdxmonkeyboy]

i built this a couple months ago. 1/8" 2x2 tube stock. make sure you gussset some of the corners.

300 gallon tank on top of it. pretty solid.

 

[vertigo01]

Just saw your post.
I think 2x2 is a bit larger than i would go, for the bottom.
I used 1 1/2 × 1 1/2 ×.063 wall for my 150 stand and it will in fact hold an 18' bay boat, motor and trailer for an extended period. Lol

Not sure where in La you are located so can't suggest a metal distributor.
However, keep in mind that you will need to order full length sticks. Which generally come in 20' lengths.

I contemplated going the 80/20 route and it would have cost me twice what my steel stand cost.
Then again, I was shopping the 80/20 site as well as Ebay.

Which ever way you go, give yourself between 2-4 inches of clearance between the sump base and the floor.
That will help to keep air circulating underneath, keeping it dry as well as allow you to clean under the stand.

 

[vertigo01]

https://8020.net : 23 cents an inch for 10 series. only 16 cents for 20 series if you want metric.

Those prices you are quoting are per inch.
Alum is cheap but not that cheap.

We are only getting between .42 and .60 a pound for clean 6061 at scrap value. Depending on market of course.

 

[Plata01]

Thanks for the info. I will continue to research before I build my stand. Jack, if you only used 1 1/2 vertigo, I might have to do the same since we have the same tank. I live on the northdshore but work in New Orleans.

 

[Plata01]

i built this a couple months ago. 1/8" 2x2 tube stock. make sure you gussset some of the corners.

300 gallon tank on top of it. pretty solid.

That's a very nice stand

 

[Plata01]

Not expensive at all. 8020 costs 20-30 cents an inch depending on series. Connections are where costs can go up if you want fancy ones but basic connections work just as well.

To cut 8020 all you need is an angle grinder and a cutting disk $2. Good chance your pops already has angle grinder. Next to a hammer its the most useful tool in the shed. If you don't have a steady hand, make cuts a 1/16 long and then switch cutting disk to a grinding disk and grind length down for perfect size/corners. Each cut should take around 30 seconds once practiced. Also can use a wet saw or even a table saw with correct blade if don't have an angle grinder. Could even use a hacksaw if feeling strong but difficult to make cuts perfect. Most stores will also make cutes for a $1 but very easy to cut yourself.

No centre brace needed under 48". 60" will need one if using 10 series. I usually use 10 series for anything under 60". It will hold thousands of pounds. Longer tanks use 15/20 series. A 60" box stand should be under $200 all in (8020, connections, tops, skin). Can double that though if using fancier connections and tops. Connections is where someone can go crazy and spend lots but basic is around 25 cents a connection. A basic box stand needs 24 basic connections. For a better explanation on types of connections go to a 8020 site. Way too hard to explain all options here. The best part about using t-slot is adjustability and increased space under tank.

If in the future you get a larger tank, all you need is to buy 8020. You will already have all/most connections. If you downsizer tank, you don't need to buy anything just cut 8020 to new size and reuse. So future stand will cost half or nothing depending on what future tank is. I've used the same connections and some of the 8020 now on three different tanks. Every time my tank has gotten larger but my new stand cost under $100.

Thanks for this whole write up. I will look into the 8020.

 

[vertigo01]

Thanks for the info. I will continue to research before I build my stand. Jack, if you only used 1 1/2 vertigo, I might have to do the same since we have the same tank. I live on the northdshore but work in New Orleans.

Seeing as you are on the Northshore, you can try Capital Steel . Not sure if they still deal in steel extrusions.
A&S in New Orleans may have some as well. Not sure as to what they are carrying since the new ownership.
Isco Metals and Supply in Gulfport is who I got mine from. Depending on where on the Northshore ( Slidell, Covington, Mandeville, Robert, Etc. Etc ) they may deliver.
You can also give Scott @ Bayou Metals a call, to see if he has any leads.

I'll see who else I can find when I get in on Mon.

 

[pfoxgrover]

Here is a picture of my stand. I haven't water tested it yet and there is a removable center leg that is not in the photo. It is two pieces so I can get it into the house. Doing the wood working now. I used a mix of steel tube sizes, 1.5 x 4 for the top horizontals (picked that for the 6 foot spans on the sides) 3/4 x 1.5 for the bottom to save weight and used 1.5 x 4 for the legs. All 1/8" thick HSS. I arranged all the pieces so that the weight bearing welds are sitting over the legs for added insurance. I also added those laser cut gussets to help with the strength. The true test will be when I fill up the tank and shake test it or try bouncing myself off it. Seems pretty stable.