STN on one side of acro

[ianryd]

I have an acro frag I picked up in early March. It was fully encrusted with no tissue damage. Over the last couple months it has STN from the base, but only on the front side. The back side has full tissue all the way to the bottom. The front side is more shaded. Should I move it closer to the light? Should I frag the tips that have tissue on both sides? Turn it on its side with the good side up? All my other acros are doing fine. Latest params are
NO3 10, PO4 .18, Alk 8.6, Cal 420, Mag 1350, Sal 1.027, temp 77.5

front side

back side

front side one month ago

 

[Backreefing]

That poor thing is in trouble.
personally I would cut it up , that’s a lot of dead area . Usually receding at the base is strarvation . Which includes lighting. Your no3 is a smidge high , no so bad . Good luck with it . We all lose one sometimes.

 

[ianryd]

That poor thing is in trouble.
personally I would cut it up , that’s a lot of dead area . Usually receding at the base is strarvation . Which includes lighting. Your no3 is a smidge high , no so bad . Good luck with it . We all lose one sometimes.

Ok thanks, so when I cut it, I select tips with healthy tissue on all sides correct? I have only had acros for about 8 months now so still a noob

 

[Backreefing]

Yes only live tissue and superglue the edge as well . You will have little bugger peace’s but it’s something. Put each on there own plug .

 

[REEFer86]

Salinity is a bit high 1.025 to 1.026 is the sweet spot.

 

[Backreefing]

In reality birdsnests are the hardest . Maybe go with montipora. ( my favorites) they are just as beautiful and easyer. Try a sunset montipora. A stunning orange with green/yellow polyps. Or a spongodes montipora, vivid green.

 

[REEFer86]

Also are your phosphates always that high? I am currently testing the amount I feed and how much phosphates it produces because phosphates past .1 for me causes my stony coral to recede.

 

[ianryd]

Also are your phosphates always that high? I am currently testing the amount I feed and how much phosphates it produces because phosphates past .1 for me causes my stony coral to recede.

They are, and that's something I've been working on. They drop down around .11 after a water change, but I'd like to get them lower. I have started with feeding less and upping my water change frequency. As far as other sps go, I do have a pretty good variaty of beginner species, as well as some acros and milles that are all doing well. Perhaps this one is just more demanding.

 

[Backreefing]

If your useing API test kits you may as well guess on your own .
I did notice the good coralline algae on the back glass . That’s a good sign for health. Is it sand on bare bottom? If you got gravel or sand are you vacuuming during water changes?

 

[ianryd]

If your useing API test kits you may as well guess on your own .
I did notice the good coralline algae on the back glass . That’s a good sign for health. Is it sand on bare bottom? If you got gravel or sand are you vacuuming during water changes?

My tank has been running for just over 2 years now (3 if you count the tank I switched everything over from), I use Hannah and salifert for testing, so my numbers should be reliable. I did not vaccuum the sand bed for a long time, but have begun to include that in my water change routine. I think my phosphates may be a result of that. I also had a bunch of plastic bio balls that I just removed a few weeks ago because I read that they can do more harm than good.

 

[Backreefing]

The vacuuming removes phosphates and nutrients, as well as ditritis. The substrate is a sink for nutrients and waist . It’s remains low in the water until it’s full . Then it’s high persistently. Dispite water changes . But if you’re vacuuming it should be good . I also blow off the rocks with a power head a few times a year to . With vacuuming and blasting, it’s like a hurricane swept through. It’s actually healthy for the aquarium.

 

[ianryd]

The vacuuming removes phosphates and nutrients, as well as ditritis. The substrate is a sink for nutrients and waist . It’s remains low in the water until it’s full . Then it’s high persistently. Dispite water changes . But if you’re vacuuming it should be good . I also blow off the rocks with a power head a few times a year to . With vacuuming and blasting, it’s like a hurricane swept through. It’s actually healthy for the aquarium.

Awesome. Thanks for your advice, I was able to frag 3 little nubs, so hopefully at least one or 2 make it. Just checked my phosphates again and they are at .12, gonna do another small WC and vaccuum, and I think I'll give the power blast a try!

 

[HB AL]

It just happens sometimes. Sometimes it stops on it's own then sometimes you have to frag off the healthy parts, yours is at the point where I would frag it now, quite a bit of damage has been done and it doesn't look like its stopping on its own. I have this indo colony I bought a few years ago that I was able to frag off a few 1/2 inch nubs a couple years ago and has regrown into a nice colony, it's nothing special but it was worth it, heres a pic I just took of it.

 

[Mrtakeoff53]

You won’t be disappointed with fragging a frag. I had a WWC birdsnest that was struggling. I fragged the smallest little piece and it’s grown into a wonderful chunky frag.

 

[ianryd]

Now that I think about it, the guy who sold it to me recommended fragging it to start. Even though it was totally healthy he said he liked to do that with chunkier frags and put them in different spots throughout the tank. Probably shoulda listened...

 

[Greg P]

What light on what size tank are you running?
I ask because in your first pic those palys(?) look over extended/light starved

 

[ianryd]

What light on what size tank are you running?
I ask because in your first pic those palys(?) look over extended/light starved

Its a 75 gal with 2 AI Hydra 26. One light on each side. About 11" off the waterRunning AB+ schedule 8 hours a day with 2 hour ramps on both ends. I have been seriously considering upgrading to a T5 hybrid fixture

 

[Greg P]

Can you post a full tank shot with your lights at their peak?

 

[Backreefing]

Absolutely upgrade to t5s put 1-2 front and in the back . I know a guy who has a similar set up and grows wonderful acropra

 

[Macdaddynick1]

Its a 75 gal with 2 AI Hydra 26. One light on each side. About 11" off the waterRunning AB+ schedule 8 hours a day with 2 hour ramps on both ends. I have been seriously considering upgrading to a T5 hybrid fixture

Looks like your po4 is a bit high for the amount of light you’re giving it and it looks like there’s a clear shadow, as one of the sides not getting the light. I would suggest adding that t5 hybrid, you will not regret it for a bit if you’re trying to grow acros. To me it seems like it’s the light issue more than anything else, I wouldn’t touch the coral though, may be add some GFO and see how it reacts.