Stocking & introduce order

cbleehk

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Hi, I'm just starting a new 180G upgrading from a 20G. With the stocking limit lifted, it's new to me how to stock more fish and understand compatibility.

I'm planning a mostly softies reef tank with dry rock and around 1.5-3mm aragonite sand. I drafted this list and I'm looking for advice on which to introduce first->last.

  • 1 Blue Tang
  • 7 Green Chromis
  • 7 Barletts Anthias < i'd like them to be the focus
  • 2 Clownfish with an anemone
  • 1 Yellow Tang
  • 1 Algae Blenny
  • 1 Diamond Watchman Goby
  • 1 Flame Angel
  • CUC - cleaner shrimp, maybe hermit depending on how algae grows
  • (how about a wrasse?)
I'm going to start with the chromis.
 
Generally you stock in order of aggression with the most aggressive going in last when your other fish are settled. In a 180g you have space so the fish can get away from each other so it's not as important but I'd suggest both tangs in last and at the same time, angelfish just before them unless it is large then you might want to add it after. Clowns, chromis and goby can go in first in whatever order you like but remember anemones need stable water conditions so perhaps add it at a later date after the clowns, the algae blenny is peaceful but needs to have enough algae present before it goes in. If you want wrasse (and you should), I'd add them before the anthias and then onto your angel and tangs. Cuc can go in when you feel the need for it.
 
Do you really mean 1.5-3.0 mm of sand? If so, seems kind of pointless as it’ll just blow around. Plus, watchman will need more than that. 1-2 inches at minimum in my view. No really aggressive fish on that list, so I’d not be all that fussed about stocking order (other than perhaps the yellow tang last). Getting successful clown/anemone pairing is not all that easy. I do agree that waiting until the tank has gone through its various algae cycles is wise. Most folks use BTA anemones, which are relatively easy, but not always viewed by clowns as an acceptable host. More natural host anemones get you into very tricky animals, not recommended for the novice reefer. Be warned that chromis are commonly uronema carriers (QT them) and will usually kill each other off. Bartlett’s are stunning pseudoanthias, and esay feeders, but the also are tough on each other so space and food are necessary to help prevent them also killing each other off.
 
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I'm guessing the 1.5-3 mm is the size of the grains.

The chromis may work...some people apparently have success with groups, but i bet you will be disappointed. They tend to pick off the weakest one until there isn't much of a group left.

I'm not an anthias guy, but many folks report a similar problem, specifically with Bartlett's.

180 gallons and frequent feedings will help in both cases, but you may still have problems there....something to think about.
 
Thank you @mort. I shall proceed with your recommendation.

@nereefpat do you mean the anthias will also pick on the weakest one and not shoal?

I had experience with chromis and yes they’ve mysteriously jumped or get wounded/killed. Maybe when the tangs come they will be more united?

@ca1ore And yes I have 2-3 inches of sand and the grains are 1.5/3mm I’m diameter. I wasn’t sure the goby or wrasse would need finer grains to bury in or siphon.
 
And about the wrasse, I read about them but it felt like they’re somewhat aggressive. I was worried they’d pick on the Chromis. Some even mentioned they pick on softies.

I was thinking about the lined wrasse or the yellow coris. Would they threaten the others?
 
Special grade reef floor sand is what I use exclusively. Have many burying wrasses - they haven’t complained yet.
 
I'm guessing the 1.5-3 mm is the size of the grains.

No doubt LOL. Just found the notion of a 1.5 mm deep sand bed funny, even if that’s not what he meant.
 
And about the wrasse, I read about them but it felt like they’re somewhat aggressive. I was worried they’d pick on the Chromis. Some even mentioned they pick on softies.

I was thinking about the lined wrasse or the yellow coris. Would they threaten the others?

I'm not 100% sure what lined wrasse are in America but to me its the Pseudocheilinus family (6 line, 4 line, mystery, 8 line etc) and if that's the family you are looking at then yes they can be aggressive and best avoided.
Yellow Coris is normally given to a species that isn't a coris wrasse at all, Halichoeres chrysus, Coris can grow into brutes but i'd have no problem recommending the Halichoeres family to anyone. It does have a few species that can grow large and aggressive but there are lots of species which stay small/medium and make excellent reef fish (some might be an issue with some cuc).
Most wrasse found in the hobby have no interest in corals except some of the larger species that tend to flip them over when looking for tasty food, or smaller parrotfish which might take a nibble.

Wrasse are a massive family of over 600 hundreds species and there are tons of peaceful, colourful and hardy species so please don't be persuaded from keeping them. Good families to look at are the flasher (Paracheilinus) and fairy wrasse (Cirrhilabrus), Pseudocheilinops the already mentioned Halichoeres and if you get hooked and want to try something else later, Macropharyngodon and Tamarins. Most of these won't have any impact on the fish already on your list and most of us would have multiple wrasse species in a decent sized tank like yours.
 
@mort yes I meant 4/6/8 line wrasses. I'm still quite new to a lot of this so I'll need to study much more about the wrasses. Thanks for the recommendations.
 
@mort yes I meant 4/6/8 line wrasses. I'm still quite new to a lot of this but I'll try to study more about the wrasses. Thanks for the recommendations
 
One more question: I saw some electric Flame Scallop, they are super cool. Anything on the list might dine on it?
 
Hi, I'm just starting a new 180G upgrading from a 20G. With the stocking limit lifted, it's new to me how to stock more fish and understand compatibility.

I'm planning a mostly softies reef tank with dry rock and around 1.5-3mm aragonite sand. I drafted this list and I'm looking for advice on which to introduce first->last.

  • 1 Blue Tang
  • 7 Green Chromis
  • 7 Barletts Anthias < i'd like them to be the focus
  • 2 Clownfish with an anemone
  • 1 Yellow Tang
  • 1 Algae Blenny
  • 1 Diamond Watchman Goby
  • 1 Flame Angel
  • CUC - cleaner shrimp, maybe hermit depending on how algae grows
  • (how about a wrasse?)
I'm going to start with the chromis.

For a 180 that should work, although there is still a chance that the Blue Tang might outgrow it when it gets bigger. The Chromis may still pick each other off over time, so be prepared for that. Flame Angels can be jerks to tankmates, but in a 180 it shouldn't be as much of a problem. Just keep an eye on them for coral nipping. I wouldn't add one until your tank is well established with algae growing as that will help increase your chances of success. A Wrasse is definitely a must IMHO. Flashers, Peaceful Fairy Wrasses, and Possum/Pygmy Wrasses don't need a sand bed and if you have a Sandbed 2-3 inches deep you can look at peaceful Halichoeres Wrasses as well (ie Melanurus, Yellow, Christmas, Red Lined). I agree that the Flame Angel and Tangs should be the last fish added to that tank. The Clownfish probably next to last as they can become quite assertive once established.
 
@Jesterrace thanks for the additional info.

I'm wondering if there's a particular way to identify a Halichoeres? I've been looking at the pictures and they basically look very similar to some other genus and I'm definitely not experienced enough to identify on the spot.
* In HK here, they have Chinese names so I have no idea how they match up with the pictures I find online. Best I can do is to ask if they're reef-safe haha..
So the best way is to educate myself before getting one.
 
One more question: I saw some electric Flame Scallop, they are super cool. Anything on the list might dine on it?

They are super cool but they are also super hard to keep alive. These are planktonic feeders and need vast amounts of food which is hard to do in anything but a dedicated system. Unfortunately all that means they generally starve over a couple of months.
Fish wise lots of things will take a nip at them which is why they tend to wedge themselves in the rockwork, making tem hard to see. I would read up on the to make sure you know everything being deciding to get one.
 
I agree about staying away from lined wrasses. This includes the mystery wrasse. The genus is Psuedocheilinus. Fishbase, search by Latin name alphabetically.

Replying to my anthias comment earlier, I just wanted to make sure you were aware of how chippy Bartlett are.
 
I believe just to their own kind. I've seen folks here and the other forum report starting with a group of Bartlett, and then end up with one.

I'm not an anthias guy, it's just something I've noticed people say. Bartlett and lyretail are the easiest anthias to keep, but have issues.
 

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