Stocking list for 72 x 30 x 24 (240 gal)

CleverGorilla

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Hi all, my family and I are stepping up from a successful 40 breeder (3 years) reef tank to a 220 gallon. We had to move (military) and the 40 breeder was dismantled and tank fish/coral taken to lfs. We have never had larger fish before and would really appreciate the experienced reefers recommendation. The tank is not set up yet and will not get any of the fish until it has cycled (I’m guessing 3 to 4 months).

1 x Hawaiian Christmas wrasse
2 x yellow tang
1 x blue powder tang
1 x Achilles tang
1 x naso tang. (Would really like more than 2 yellow tangs)

Would also like your opinion on how you feel about 1 x humu humu (or other trigger)
1 x moorish idol
2 x raccoon butterfly
1 x parrotfish.

Please tell us if you have any concerns and/or recommendations on what fish first, etc.

I really appreciate your time so we get this right.
 
At 72” you do indeed have a lot of great options. My best advice is to be selective and get the key fish you really, really want to own long-term. Otherwise if you just start collecting them (a bit of a pun) randomly, you may run out of room before you add your favorites— especially if they are fish that will grow large. Then there is compatibility. So there you have it: selectivity now will save you some problems later. Best wishes, and give us photos!
 
First of all, congrats on such a large tank! Your tank dimensions all you to fit the vast majority of fish available to the hobby.

Mmm....

I don’t know if anyone’s done it successfully, but 2 Yellow Tangs can be risky. I’d only stick to one.

I’ll have to say no to the Moorish Idol. Your tank is not big enough. Notoriously difficult to keep. Obligate coral and sponge eaters, their diet’s extremely hard to replicate in captivity and they are prone to disease. If you want a Moorish Idol look-alike, look into Black and White Heniochus (Heniochus acunimatus) or Schooling Bannerfish (Heniochus diphreutes). Your tank should be able to house a duo or maybe even a trio. Or if you want open water schooling fish, maybe a pair or trio of Genicanthus angels? -Spotbreast, Watanabei, Bellus. These get to 7”, Watanabei only 6”. Just be sure to secure healthy specimens that aren’t swimming erratically or swimming in a downwards motion because that means decompression issues. Spotbreast is OK but Watanabei and Bellus are deeper water species. Hear they’re not hard to keep once acclimated.

I’ll have to say no to parrotfish. They get huge and are obligate coral eaters like the Moorish Idol. Almost impossible to maintain in captivity.

Achilles Tang- OK, but another difficult and ich prone species.

Powder Blue Tang- Same genus as Achilles, a bit easier from what I’ve heard but still an ich magnet. Also not sure how two tangs of the same genus would get along.

Naso Tang- Probably not enough swimming space. These guys get up to 45cm max size, your tank lacks the horizontal swimming space. I would say 8-9’ required for these fish, 10+ foot even better.


If you want to mix Tangs, the best person to ask would probably be @4FordFamily.


Raccoon Butterflyfish- You could probably do a pair (not sure though), but not sure if they’re reef safe. If you want reef safe get a pair of Pyramid Butterflies.

Triggerfish- Only one I’d consider for your tank would be Blue Throat Trigger. The rest can get very large and / or very aggressive. Humu Picasso could also be fine, but not sure. They get to 10”. IMO they are better for fish only predator tanks.

Hawaiian Christmas Wrasse: Good.


If I were you I’d do (feel free to critique):

x2 Ocellaris or Darwin Ocellaris (Black and White) Clownfish- do not get wild caught. It’s so easy to find tank bred ones these days. No reason to get wild caught because those are a lot more prone to disease and have generally poor survival rates. The reputation of Clowns as a hardy, borderline bulletproof fish comes from the fact they’re easily bred and raised in captivity. Do not get wild caught. Do not. Do not. You’ll be saving yourself from a lot of heartache.

x1 Hawaiian Christmas Wrasse

x1 Yellow Tang

x1 Powder Blue / Achilles Tang

x1 species of Bristletooth Tang (Tomini, Yellow Eye Kole, Squaretail Bristletooth, Spotted Bristletooth, White Tail Bristletooth)

x2 Watanabei / Bellus / Spotbreast Angels

x2 Pyramid Butterflies or Bannerfish

x1 Marine Betta

You could also swap out one of the tangs for a Foxface, I would go with One-Spot as they get to 8”. The rest are larger.

And then your tank could fit in any of the smaller fish like basslets, Cardinalfish, wrasses etc. Basslets plenty to choose from: Royal Gramma, Blackcap Basslet, Swissguard Basslet, Swales Basslet, one of the Assessors. Many options. Cardinalfish don’t get Bangaiis IMO they kill each other off. Pajama and some of the other species may be more peaceful when kept in a group. Wrasses your tank can fit any Fairy or Flasher Wrasse (you can keep them together), Halichoeres (sand burrowing wrasse), Hogfish, many to choose from.


Be sure to have sand bed for Hawaiian Christmas Wrasse. It belongs to genus Halichoeres and they are a sand burrowing wrasse. I would give it 3” sand bed.


Do you want a bottom dweller? Do you want to keep inverts? If yes, all the gobies and Blennies would work. I would say don’t get the very small Neon Gobies because they are too easily lost in a big tank like yours. The others, especially Yellow Watchman and same genus gobies, do well and they can be paired with a Pistol Shrimp for the symbiotic relationship. Blennies and gobies can get along. If you don’t to keep inverts or a goby / blenny, you can consider an easy species like a Hawkfish. Flame, Longnose, Falco, Spotted and Coral Hawkfish remain small. Among them Flame and Longnose are the least aggressive and two juveniles 5cm and below can be paired.

If you want schooling fish, I would not suggest Chromis or Anthias. Chromis kill each other off, many species of Anthias do the same. Both are very prone to uronema, tank bomb. If your tank gets it it’s GG to pretty much everything with the possible exception of the Marine Betta should you get one.

Also you should cover your tank. Open tank=higher risk of jumpers.
 
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Sorry to interrupt but Parrotfish are not all obligate corallivores it is very species dependent, scarus quoyi isnt which is the most comminly available ones in aquariums, and moorish idols are not obligate corallivores or spongivores. Sponges make up a good precent of their diet (about 80%) and the rest is plant matter

Do you plan on making this tank a reef tank OP?
 
Hi all, my family and I are stepping up from a successful 40 breeder (3 years) reef tank to a 220 gallon. We had to move (military) and the 40 breeder was dismantled and tank fish/coral taken to lfs. We have never had larger fish before and would really appreciate the experienced reefers recommendation. The tank is not set up yet and will not get any of the fish until it has cycled (I’m guessing 3 to 4 months).

1 x Hawaiian Christmas wrasse
2 x yellow tang
1 x blue powder tang
1 x Achilles tang
1 x naso tang. (Would really like more than 2 yellow tangs)

Would also like your opinion on how you feel about 1 x humu humu (or other trigger)
1 x moorish idol
2 x raccoon butterfly
1 x parrotfish.

Please tell us if you have any concerns and/or recommendations on what fish first, etc.

I really appreciate your time so we get this right.

If you intend this to be a reef then I highly recommend you follow the DO NOT get list provided by Zionas above.

I personally like the Bristletooth tangs particularly the Square tailed, White tailed and Tomini.

I dont know what kind of money you have but I dont have a ton to spend so .. in my situation I would go Powder Blue, Yellow and/or Purple (same genus as yellow) and the White tailed Bristletooth. My experience is that the Bristletooth tangs are - less prone to not grazing - when fed well.

You have a lot of room for wrasses.. My esperience with a Christmas wrasse is they can be hit and miss on some inverts. The one I have likes to eat snails. Look up Solon or Solar fairy wrasse. There really are a ton of keepable fairy wrasses. I dont have the link on had but there is a chart here in R2R showing compatibility. Flasher wrasses are a good choice too.
Many types of wrasses are not reef safe, I would look at Live Aquaria and they list aggressiveness and separate the lists between the reef safe and not reef safe.

Other choices depending on sand bed and hiding places are Blennies, Gobies, various inverts, Basslets - many colorful choices there, Dottybacks.

I also really like the suggested Pyramid butterfly.

Hawkfish are a nice choice Longnose and Flame but can eat small shrimp.. in fact, if you plan to keep small shrimp most on your list are not good choices. So keeping inverts can limit some of your choices.

Research your choices as much as you can and ALSO as suggested above, decide on a couple fish you really want to keep well ahead of time. My list is a mile long and has slowly been getting trimmed. I have already ruled out things like Triggers, Butterflyfish, Puffers and Boxfish, Angels, most Damsels, ANthias, and Cardinals.

So, that is my perspective.. but my biggest suggestion, Research.. It is good you asked here but look into as much info as you can.

I should add, my biggest tank currently is a 75 but have plans for a 150 fatboy (4 foot tank)
 
Butterflies- OK. Bannerfish, get H. diphreutes / Schooling Bannerfish. The acuminatus is for fish only. Apart from that if you want completely Reef safe, get a pair of Pyramid Butterflies.

Moorish Idol- Not reef safe and you should not take any chances when it comes to them. Too difficult to maintain.

Large angels-Other than Genicanthus, the others aren’t completely Reef safe or not Reef safe at all. Some of the Centropyge dwarf angels may work though still with some risk.

Triggers- Not reef safe, I think. FO suits them better.


The Clownfish, Wrasses, Hawkfish, Gobies, Blennies, Foxface, Tangs, Marine Betta, Basslets etc. all are Reef safe. Haven’t heard of anyone having trouble with them in a reef tank save for isolated cases.



Boxfish / Cowfish- Not recommended. Easily get some ich, can release toxins when stressed.


Puffers- I just don’t find them that appealing. They also have some special requirements-they need hard objects like mollusk shells to constantly grind their teeth.

Anglers- Many only take live foods. Also puts smaller fish at some risk. IMO best for a species tank.

Lionfish- Many venomous spines, weaning them off live foods is a problem for many. Also puts smaller fish at risk whether through its mouth or its spines. Not the best fish for a community tank (which I assume is your goal). Better for a predator FO tank.

Eels- Huge bioload, can escape like a snake, needs to be fed live. Can eat smaller fish. For a large, predator tank IMO.


Soapfish- When stressed or dead, releases toxins that can kill off everything in your tank. Species tank only.


Groupers- Only acceptable grouper-ish species would be the Marine Betta as I’ve mentioned. They stay small for a grouper and haven’t heard them really bothering any fish. Shrimp and snails will be at a higher risk of being eaten. Beautiful fish. The “real” groupers need large, predator or species tanks.


Damsels- If you really want to include a couple, look at genus Chrysiptera (Azure, Talbot’s, Rolland’s, Springer’s, Yellow Tail, Starckii’s if you can find them). The rest are not much of a community fish. Chromis have a high attrition rate.


Anthias- I heard some species are OK but IMP not worth it because of their susceptibility to uronema, attrition like the Chromis, and require 4-5 feedings a day.
 
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Thank you very much for all the information! It will be about four/five months until the aquarium gets any fish so I am using this time to research. I will go through all the different species you all have provided and come up with a plan with my family. This will be another reef tank, so having fish that don't eat corals or produce toxins is a must. My wife is from Hawaii and our goal was to keep the majority of the fish Hawaiian.
 

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